FTO AUSTRALIA

So a big thanks to Dwayne for sending me the drive shaft I needed as mine is stuffed............. atleast I think it is...

jacked up the car, put the stands under what I thought were supporting rail stands, only for the metal to turn to putty, and now those rails are bent.

Found I couldn't get the driveshaft out because the exhaust gets in the way, and the design means I have nothing to put between the 'bulb' and the gbox to pop it out.

and then I find that the sound is most likely caused by the steering rack rubber boot being split open, and causing an air vacuum when I turn left corners

So now I have to pay some shiester to put in something that should have been relatively simple, all because Mitsu thought it would be a great idea to put everything in a stupid bloody spot, and way.

why the fudge would you put an alternator there?????

/rant

Actually its fairly easy to do just need to be able to hoist it up high enough or work with nearly no room

Did you sit jack stands on sill's? as they would fold on almost any car
To pop out CV you need a pry bar and the right angle
Rack boot is not too bad just fiddly but doubt that is causing any actual noise that will be you CV when turning left

its quite smart on their side


if you can stop people from servicing and changing parts on there own car because its to difficult it creates more money for you

brad_gpx wrote:its quite smart on their side


if you can stop people from servicing and changing parts on there own car because its to difficult it creates more money for you

True, but that only works on Japan land where the car no longer is. otherwise they're just being pests

Don't understand why they didn't do an intermediate shaft.


I had a pry bar, I had a crow bar, I had a number of devices right up to a flame thrower, before I remembered it wasn't my car to torch.
So I put everything back and gave up.

probably was the sills, but on the Magna and RVR they're jacking points... didn't think it was any different until the metal turned to putty

Saw the drive shaft was a prick without a hoist.

Ended up getting a new drive shaft (comes with new boots) and cost me $280 inc labor.

yeah, I have the shaft, so I expect an hours labor at max, so yeah, about the same cost as you.

I dont understand, getting driveshafts out is easy I swapped both of Kaz's out last DIY day, took me about an hour & a half

Always jack the car from the tow hook up front (hydro jack) the pop axle stands under it somewhere.

Unless you know the inner CV is fucked, dont remove it completely. If you pop the whole joint out of the box, you'll also get covered in gearbox oil.

Just get under there & just cut the strap off the inner boot.
Then remove the wheel, get someone to stamp on the brakes whilst you crack the castle nut off the hub, then remove the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut.
Pull the hub out & down from the strut (leaving it connected to the lower ball joint) & push the driveshaft back through the centre of the hub.

Then simply pull the driveshaft out. It will 'pop' out of the inner joint as the rubber boot comes off from around all the grease.

Probably would make more sense if I was reading that as I did it :S

Cars at the shop, guys done a few jobs for me in the past, and knew I had issues with this shaft for a while.

just realised it's about an hours cost, AND gbox oil.... DAMN.

oh well.

the inner boot was split, and barely any grease left in there, the end cv that went to the wheel felt alright, but kinda weird, because it shouldnt be with the noise the car's making.

unless it's not the shaft at all, which has me stumped on what it could be then

less I can get this fixed won't be making the bonfire, bloody brakes on the RVR are fucked, even after I thought I'd fixed them.
and the FTO has this whirring/ grinding noise

Astron_Boy wrote:Probably would make more sense if I was reading that as I did it :S

Cars at the shop, guys done a few jobs for me in the past, and knew I had issues with this shaft for a while.

just realised it's about an hours cost, AND gbox oil.... DAMN.

oh well.

the inner boot was split, and barely any grease left in there, the end cv that went to the wheel felt alright, but kinda weird, because it shouldnt be with the noise the car's making.

unless it's not the shaft at all, which has me stumped on what it could be then

less I can get this fixed won't be making the bonfire, bloody brakes on the RVR are fucked, even after I thought I'd fixed them.
and the FTO has this whirring/ grinding noise

If you know the guy, and trust him, then there is no problem getting something done professionally

I know a mechanic well back in my old city (going back there soon) that has worked on all of my cars for probably the last 8-9 years. It's great not having to be worried about getting ripped and just trusting them to do things properly the first itme

Also, the sound you are describing sounds similar to when I broke a section of my axle at the diff end. Do you get vibrations when decelerating? Especially downhill?

havent noticed any vibrations.

Simply a whirring sound which would occur when turning a left hand corner, and now since time has progrssed, I get a much lighter whirring simply on a straight track of road.

If it isn't the driveshaft it's the wheel bearing.... all I can think of.

Well.

Interesting developement.

4spd tip shafts are NOT the same as 5spd tip shafts.

The piece that goes into the gearbox itself is different..... and leaves it being to short.

So the guy who has the car is swapping over the end cv onto the new shaft and then refitting.

so I couldn't have done it myself anyway.....

lets hope this fixes the sound, cause this is going to cost me a bit more now

edit: soon as the 'new' shaft went in, ABS light stayed on.... so he's now repairing the original end cv to put back on.