FTO AUSTRALIA

I'm pretty sure my alternator is screwed.
I should know the symptoms by now. This will be my fourth since 2002
Which brings me to my next main question.
Is it possible I have an ongoing fault which keeps killing my alternators, or are they just of poor construction?
In a recent post, I noted I8A4RE said he'd been through as many as me.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Note I'm also looking for a replacement.

FknTopOne wrote:I'm pretty sure my alternator is screwed.
I should know the symptoms by now. This will be my fourth since 2002
Which brings me to my next main question.
Is it possible I have an ongoing fault which keeps killing my alternators, or are they just of poor construction?
In a recent post, I noted I8A4RE said he'd been through as many as me.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Note I'm also looking for a replacement.

Hey mate, yeah i have been through heaps of them. My latest stage has been to have in my car and a spare in the garage it was getting so bad. I thought that the alternator being at the back of the engine caused excess heat which shortened the life span of the alternator (a design flaw) as quite a few of us have this problem but then i started talking to people on this forum and there a large amount of people who have no problems watso eva.

So I am thinking that maybe the later model FTO's had a different model alternator. But i cannot confirm that.

However i got my mate to look at my spare one and he said the bushes were fine it was most probably the rectifier. Now i have found a supplier for all the parts (can even get a brand new one for the price i was paying for a recond one) and I am about to make order some parts. What id yours a GPX or a GR?

I have a 95 GPX
I'm going to check it out tomoz to make sure 100% it's the alternator.
I learned the hard way about replacement costs. I got ripped hard on the first one I replaced. something like $800+
Last time I think replaced and fitted around $350
How long would it take for your order to come in?

Make sure the belt tension isn't too tight because if it is it could be stressing the internals of the alternator, like can happen with a water pump. Could be robbing you of precious horsepower if too tight too through parasitic loss.

Remember guys, tight isn't always good, only when you are with the ladies

+1

Should have 8-10mm flex in the belt at its longest unsupported section.

I've had the same alternator in my car since I bought it in 2003.

Can any one give me the part number for the GPX alternator?

How long would it take for your order to come in?

Not sure it's from overseas, so could take a week maybe longer.

Does this help?

Alternator Assembly

Listed Parts
14200A MD317515 ALTERNATOR ASSY DE3A

www.completefto.com.au/modules/parts/parts.asp?bid=168

I'm thinking your strategy of keeping one spare, might not be a bad option.

It's always good to have one on the side, right

Well now, i'm just confused.
I've had it diagnosed by NRMA. I'm told it's the starter that's gone.
The symptoms were:
Just barely able kick over to start for the last week (ok so that could be starter, but I've had that with the alt before, as well).
8-10 reading on volt metre, prior to start up. Then higher, around 14 when driving.
Can some one please refresh my memory, when alt is gone do you get clicking, or just flat?
I've never done the starter before. Any ideas on cost?

if starter gone will struggle to start may click or make a whurring sort of noise......

clicking is usually associated with the starter however a battery can also cause this.

Fkntopone you could actually have 2 problems alternator and starter.

In all my times on this forum i dont think i have heard one person need to replace there starter though.

ok this is my guess at your issue.....starter is fine alternator is screwed which has drained your battery. Get a volt meter on to your battery while cranking the car and tell me what happens

I8A4RE wrote:clicking is usually associated with the starter however a battery can also cause this.

Fkntopone you could actually have 2 problems alternator and starter.

In all my times on this forum i dont think i have heard one person need to replace there starter though.

ok this is my guess at your issue.....starter is fine alternator is screwed which has drained your battery. Get a volt meter on to your battery while cranking the car and tell me what happens

actually simon i was always under impression starter is common fault on FTO I had to replace mine and know of a few others

vipfto wrote:

I8A4RE wrote:clicking is usually associated with the starter however a battery can also cause this.

Fkntopone you could actually have 2 problems alternator and starter.

In all my times on this forum i dont think i have heard one person need to replace there starter though.

ok this is my guess at your issue.....starter is fine alternator is screwed which has drained your battery. Get a volt meter on to your battery while cranking the car and tell me what happens

actually simon i was always under impression starter is common fault on FTO I had to replace mine and know of a few others

nope

vipfto wrote:if starter gone will struggle to start may click or make a whurring sort of noise......

This more describes the current issue.
I'm pretty sure in the past I've had the clicking when the alternator went.
Car did not start on the jumper leeds today either, usually does when it's the alternator.
The NRMA dude did some volt tests, on start up, I should've asked him about the readings. I tipped him off about the alternator, but he was very confident it was starter.

Car did not start on the jumper leeds today either

Well thats a pretty good indication it is your starter then. But as I say you might be suffering from 2 issues. As your starter will not cause your volts to drop to 8-10 on idle

Is it manual?? Can you do a clutch start...... if so then your starter is definitly rooted.

Its 2 bolts & 1 nut. Will do it for a 6 pack.

That easy to replace?

That translates to a full days work in my garage

Any ideas on what they cost?

Last one I got (I am about to go for a third now) was $80 NZD, I suggest paying an auto sparky the 1/2 hour it takes to recondition it too...

Watched a mates one get done, very simple and very quick.

I don't know what makes SOME FTO's have issues with them and others not, it's bizarre...

Now I've got a problem with my alternator.

When i bought my fto, the battery light was on constanlty, but the volt gauge was a steady 13-14V. THe car yard mechanic replaced the alternator, and now its running at 12V or under, and when i accelerate, the battery light fades on.

Any ideas why this is happening?

sounds like alt to me mate, maybe he did not replace it or just chucked in 2nd hand one and now thats buggered?
I f ya wanna replace give me a shout and i'll give ya a hand