FTO AUSTRALIA

Hey all,

I have read many threads about alternator and battery, and even stepper moter, but if i disconnect + terminal on battery while car is running, car dies, ad it shouldnt right? means alternator is dead?

had issues with dual battery in car of late, one deffinatly died, thought it killed the other, but the battery light is on in dash. it dissapears after 4000rpm but voltage on bat is allways under 12 volt.

please confirm this is alternator issue and not just a dead battery.

also can someone point me in the direction of a how to, to remove the alternator?, i know there is stuff around it i have to remove first but dont wanna take stuff apart i cant put back together.

Thanks, Tom

No mate if you disconnect the + the car will die.

Take your battery into to a battery specialist they will test it for free. If your battery light comes on usually means that your alternator is screwed though. Whats your in-car volt meter reading saying?

Everyone sort of has there own way of doing the alternator the best bet is to completly un do it and then try and pull out the bggest gap, you will soon see what you have to remove. I usually just drop the strut (the 3 bolts inside the engine bay) and can get out the side however other people have had to remove the exhaust manifold

I8A4RE wrote:No mate if you disconnect the + the car will die.

Not true, alternator should keep the car running.

Your alternator is shot.

Really mine dies Always has, I suppose i have never really had a great alternator. Been through 4 of them on the green car alone

Hold on it also used to do it on my old exa as well. Are you sure Ben? I know you could get away with it on old cars but with the introduction of ECU etc I thought there was just too much power drain for a standard alternator to handle. Of course i could be completly wrong electrical stuff aint my strong point

The higher you hold the rpm over idle, the better chance of keeping it running. The higher you have to have it just to keep it running, the more rooted your alternator is likely to be

Cheers Simon, but i think ben gets a point for this, im pretty sure its just the alternator, as the Battery does hold charge, its just not charging. (thought it might be dead cause im sure the first one died killing it too) all happened at same time.

can i get a thrid opinon please to give ben the point confirm i have to pull out my damn alternator?

While we're on the topic of alternators & batteries ..

I just replaced the battery because it was buggered (car was dying while driving around etc)

Now my car seems to be running fine but it constantly has the battery light showing red on my dash & the voltage occasionally drops below 13 or so .. probably to about 8-11 on my voltmeter ..

Could the alternator be stuffed? possibly the regulator? seems to make sense if it isn't regulating.. right?

I'll try checking the ECU codes tomorrow & see if that turns up anything..

Alternator

did yo say your volts are reading under 12?

yip its alternator and yeah ben is spot on with this one

all108er for sure lots'a dollars

Anyone have any idea where to find parts for alternators? I want to have a go at fixing it myself..

yep
There's a place in japan or china and a place in the uk. Pretty cheap from memory too.

I had my electrician at work take a look at one of my spares and said the bushes were sweet but the rectifier was rooted. Ill be putting an order in for about 10 of them in the next month or so

mine was the rectel thingie the auto electrician fixed it. cost including remove and replace $570.00 mac's auto marion sa
the guy said the bigest pain in the ass job ever undertaken.

biglinz wrote:mine was the rectel thingie the auto electrician fixed it. cost including remove and replace $570.00 mac's auto marion sa
the guy said the bigest pain in the ass job ever undertaken.

whoa :S Ican see why he wanted to BS you .. it'd only be hard if you don't know what you're doing..
it only cost $280 the first time I had mine reco'd.. Craig's Auto Repair Services at Rocklea (CARS) i wouldn't want to spend any more than $300 for the full job.. even the second time I had mine removed & Sam's old one put in it didn't cost much..

still .. I'll be having a go at taking it out & re-fitting it myself - even if I can't get the parts to rebuild.. but if I'm successful I might even be able to help out other members with theirs

biglinz wrote:mine was the rectel thingie the auto electrician fixed it. cost including remove and replace $570.00 mac's auto marion sa
the guy said the bigest pain in the ass job ever undertaken.

WHAT, f&*k man he saw you coming

^^ yeah man thats why you get quotes and ask people or get as much info first

100% right. but i had a full day already and they did all the work getting the car from the middle of marion rd peak hr to their garage lent me a car so i could piss off to work droped the fto back to me at work then spent $200 in my shop and is now a regular customer spends the same each month. got a feeling i'am in front in the long run

biglinz wrote:100% right. but i had a full day already and they did all the work getting the car from the middle of marion rd peak hr to their garage lent me a car so i could piss off to work droped the fto back to me at work then spent $200 in my shop and is now a regular customer spends the same each month. got a feeling i'am in front in the long run

NICE

Problem now sorted.

Had to charge 2 batterys and change them on my drive to RICOL just to make sure i didnt break down in the M5 tunnel. Got it fixed, 300 bucks for alt recon/removal, + got some ide isues fixed and a service, $570 total (expedted worse, got quoted 500 just for alt exchange from Sydney City Mitsu).

FTO back on the road running swoit, just in time to drive to melbourne for work.

Thanks for the advice.

Tom