FTO AUSTRALIA

i went down to uas today 2 buy a Cold air ramp pod intake kit 4 my 95fto-gpx, but they didnt have the hose/pipe ........ in addition i was told that he wouldnt make any more because uas dont make much money off the the pipe because the hose/pipe cost too much n there wasnt much interest in that product.

so to cut a long story short uas can replace rubber hose and use polished alloy instead for both the factory air box or the ramp pod. he gave me a rought guess of $300 + depends on numbers also?

so let us knoe if you are interested......or if you knoe of an even better/ cheaper way that has helped to gain power

thanks

What's the price on the box only?

I already have an intake pipe just need to box it. Other members have been known to use dunny pipes as the pipe and it works a treat.

Holy crap! $300!?

I did mine for well under $100 using parts from ebay (about $85)


I'll PM you the links to what you need.

oh & as for the box, you don't need a fancy UAS box, you can make it yourself easily enough, some people have used the metallic sunvisor material, sheets of plastic, you could even use those plastic "For sale" signs which work pretty well, a bucket... etc..

i think what the guy at uas ment was $300 4 the kit???? im kinda unsure now...... i'll give him a call then let you know

Johns UAS kit consisted of pipe, filter, box & all relevant clamps to put it together.

its $300 for the pipe alone!!
the reason he gave me for it being so high was that its complex? n its like 2 pipes welded 2gether? i dunno much about cars but i dont think i wanna pay $300+ just 4 a pipe

mr-charisma........
is there any differeance with your car now that you have changed the pipeing and what not?

Just thinking out loud, can you use wood for the box? So much easier to work with than alum

pinoy_ko wrote:mr-charisma........
is there any differeance with your car now that you have changed the pipeing and what not?

HELL YES!

even if you just do it for the sound it is well worth it... but it will get more grunt as well..

Will be even better once I've boxed the Pod filter, run a decent air ram pipe into the box & insulated the alloy piping with some heat deflection sheilding, some closed cell foam & a barrier to deflect the heat from the engine bay away from the intake..

All of which can be done on the cheap & still look good..

JOeJOe wrote:Just thinking out loud, can you use wood for the box? So much easier to work with than alum

You could... I would imagine it would be better than Aluminium because it retains less heat, but worse because its heavier ...

Best material I think would be plastic / perspex .. thick enough to block out heat, thin enough to be fairly light...
.. or you could even use a small esky

Perpex would be good but wouldn't it melt under the heat?

JOeJOe wrote:Perpex would be good but wouldn't it melt under the heat?

not sure thought it needed to be pretty hot ... but it might warp if its hot enough.. I've only been mucking around with perspex to make a cover for the intake etc.. not using it for a complete box.. haven't put it on the car yet to see how it goes.. but I will be testing it with a hairdryer first i think ..

I've got a sheet of lexan lying around in the shed, even better than perspex. I might give it a go. Its got decent heat resistance only problem is joining it.

JOeJOe wrote:Just thinking out loud, can you use wood for the box? So much easier to work with than alum

Tas Oak?, Huon Pine?, Black Heart Sassafras? or Blackwood?

Might have a problem with heat and humidity.

Cheers

Chris

Dense foam from clark rubber
The now infamous FTO style sunshield box...
Uhm, yeah! Both pretty cheap. I reckon sunshield stuff with plastic backing is the go though.

Hey KJ, still got that nice photo of the airbox with the cleartop of your sky-line ?

Delvance wrote:Dense foam from clark rubber
The now infamous FTO style sunshield box...
Uhm, yeah! Both pretty cheap. I reckon sunshield stuff with plastic backing is the go though.

Hey KJ, still got that nice photo of the airbox with the cleartop of your sky-line ?

They've got some sticky backed sound deadening foam + heat shielding at clark rubber as well ... or just some heat shielding with foam (non sound deadening)
'tis teh ultimate

the UAS sh*ts over those other setups.

Its thick rubber which a nice shape from something like 80mm down to the the TB size...The rubber helps much more with heat sock in nornal diriving conditions...the metal pipes just heat up. Plastic/rubber is preferred. Another option is to wrap it with some exhaust wrap to keep the heat out, I do this with my IC piping on my turbo...looks pretty average but is great.

As for the box, the UAS box is ok. Heaps better than not having a box. With the setups in the pic you gain 2kw from the pipe, loos 2kw from the heat you sucking up. This will be esp. bad at the lights or when you stopped and launch moving probably not as bad. Nice sound though.
These setups dyno well with a big fan and bonnet up...in normal driving conditions, bonnet down and no big fan its a different story.

I have made a stock box setup with front bar feed directly into the side of the stock box very happy with it now. Gives me the best of both worlds.

I agree, best pipe is the UAS one. Very good design for fast high air flow and made of rubber so it doesn't heat soak like metal ones. Made a fair bit of difference when i put it on my fto and sounds better too.

JOeJOe wrote:Perpex would be good but wouldn't it melt under the heat?

I've got a storage tub (lol) for my air box with perspex on top and perspex siliconed into the box to reinforce it...
No melting and it's been in there for 2 months. Done a 3 hour road trip and heaps of city driving... No probs.





Air pickup is through reinforced rubber hose leading to the left front vent in the grille.

If your after pipe, go to your local truck exhaust manufacturer!!!
My truckie brother's suggestion, I thought he was nuts and it'd still cost me a fortune.
Got a stainless pipe mandrel bent for $25! Just had to cut it to the right length (was way longer than I needed).
Got some thermo wrap for it but it looks so much nicer without it.

I agree that plastic pipe would be much better insulation wise, I just don't trust plastic pipes in hose clamps in positions where there is stress put on it from engine movement. Last thing I want is a pipe to shatter and throw plastic through the inside of my engine (remember, it is in a hot environment and will become more brittle over time.)

I'll happily sacrifice the marginal difference in intake temperature for the peace of mind that I'm not gunna coat the inside of my engine in PVC...