I had to pull mine apart... again, because the location of the MAF sensor was far to close to the actual filter, and the filter was far too close to the cold air feed. For those with non Mivec, take note, the MAF (air flow) sensor is extremely sensitive & I found when a noticeable change in air temp occurred, my idle would go all tits up... especially when pulling up behind a car who's exhaust would be near the cold air pickup point.
So I've moved the MAF sensor further up towards the throttle body. I also redid the legendary FTO338 'sunvisor' reflective heat shield. A bit of a cardboard template & a staple gun goes along way to making the ideal heat shield for ones pod filter
Before: (Note MAF sensor tucked inside the air box)
Lol @ the sunshield stuff, nice one . Setup looks pretty good though! Did you notice any difference in driving it ? I wonder if that single 60mm feed provides enough air though ?
Haven't really given it a good drive yet as I was outta sunlight when I finished it, Will know today
The ID of the pipe is 65mm to match the TB & the dyno figures it puts out are pretty good. Ideally I'd like to have used 75mm ID between the MAF & filter to give it that 'throttled' effect of condensing & speeding the flow up, but the next size up dunny pipe available is 90mm
Sure does make a difference Sam, no more random stalls & odd revs at idle. I dunno bout you, but the poms managed to to find a way to tune the GR's up & remove the MAF with one of their own ECU's... The mob that did it was Eurospec if you wanted to try & find out how. I've been trying, but they just want to sell me one of the ECUs lol.
I built a box by buying two oil drip trays from super cheap (aluminium ones) and cutting them up with tin snips...
Then knocking up a box for it, then lining the inside with sunvisor stuff, then sandwiching another layer of aluminium...
Then one more layer of sunvisor stuff to be sure...
Made such a difference... was running an open pod before that... and was nice and noisy, but the power was very stockish... new box = helluva difference..
Total cost:
Pop Rivets and Screws: $2
Sun visor $5
Drip trays $4 x2
took 2 hours to build and fit...
great little project... shouldve made a DIY but oh well...
If you need good deal on photography, let me know.
And does moving the sensor provide THAT much difference??
I just realised something...
I dont think i have one of those on my new engine...
Will i need it even though im running a full aftermarket ECU??? Im guessing i will... sh*t....
If you are running an aftermarket ECU you shouldn't need it .. I had the whole MAF set up and stuff on an Exlipse 4G63 engine ... Put in the EMS 8860 ECU and no longer needed it ... So you will probably be the same ...
Bennoz wrote:The ID of the pipe is 65mm to match the TB & the dyno figures it puts out are pretty good. Ideally I'd like to have used 75mm ID between the MAF & filter to give it that 'throttled' effect of condensing & speeding the flow up, but the next size up dunny pipe available is 90mm
Can get 75mm stormwater pipe or 80mm pressure pipe...
Bennoz wrote:The ID of the pipe is 65mm to match the TB & the dyno figures it puts out are pretty good. Ideally I'd like to have used 75mm ID between the MAF & filter to give it that 'throttled' effect of condensing & speeding the flow up, but the next size up dunny pipe available is 90mm
Can get 75mm stormwater pipe or 80mm pressure pipe...
Rebuilt again!! The dunny pipe cracked & I couldn't be assed rebuilding that again, so I bought 2 peices of $65 a pop 75mm Autotechnica 90 degree bends. Couple that with a strategically cut peice of my misses matching blue tafe folder & its a nice sealed unit
Last edited by Bennoz on Mon Dec 17, 2007 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
. Setup looks pretty good though! Did you notice any difference in driving it ? I wonder if that single 60mm feed provides enough air though ?