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my subs cracked the weld in my boot :(
Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:52 pm
by DRM34R
i recently put two 12inch subs in my boot. i hadnt got round to insulating the boot yet but little did i know the welding between the frame that sits under the boot and the boot itself as come apart in most places!!!
just curious to know if this has happend to anyone??
Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:07 pm
by Rocco
How much fully sick bass were u running bro O.o
Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:09 pm
by DRM34R
lmao not enough!! its like full rattling the whole car its killin my life...
Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:37 pm
by DRM34R
btw im a chik not a bro lol
Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:42 am
by scarecrow
2 12" subs? Jesus, unless you get your car sound deadened you're going to rattle the poor thing to bits!
Any smash repair place should be able to weld up the damage for you though.
Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 12:02 pm
by DRM34R
yeah need music to listen to!!
i think some dude is guna put that matting stuff thro the whole car so that should help a little bit....i think i owe my mum a picture frame considerin it fell off the wall when i was testin them in the garage

lol
Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:35 pm
by mxysxy
are you sure it wasn like that before?
normally these things happen because of constant heating and cooling
check under the bonnet, I am pretty sure you will have the same issue there too
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:51 pm
by DRM34R
hrm well im pretty sure but most of the rattling is commin from the left rear end for some odd reason but yeah the boot is a pain but when im free ill get it sortd...
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 10:38 am
by AMACHA
haha in my mates car he recently put two soundstream 12inch T5 taranchla subs 900rms each and i have a monoblock 2000rms i think if i put it up full blast i could shatter glass lol.
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:20 pm
by FtoSam
hehee....
I used to run 2x Audiobahn Immortal Series 12s 2000WRMS (Each) Subs off a 4500WRMS Monoblock in the fto back in the days...
was a little loud for me...
And yeah it cracked the welds.. I just put sound deadner through the whole thing... heaps better... dont think i've fixed it to this day...
oh after 150 3inch screws in the box, the weight of the subs still ripped the front off... another 100 in the front piece solved this problem... then the pressure blew the back end out....
Ended up installing steel bracing throught the box...
3x0.5M runs of 0 Ga from the bank of 4 120Ah Deep Cycles to the amp... it could drain them in 10 minutes....
Alternator wouldnt charge them so had to recharge them everynight...
needless to say quickly sold it all (about $9k worth) and bought a single pioneer 300w 12" and a 600w pioneer monoblock...
much nicer sound but not as much bass...
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:23 pm
by AMACHA
ahha yeaa i have a capacitor in my boot as well and i had to get the box custom made or else the pre made boxes would jsut crack.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:53 pm
by nvdfto
dont worry dude its a common thing for boot lids to crack due to the bass come`n from the sub
nothing we can do abt it. unless u want sh*tty sound with no bass then dont get a sub or else boot is gonna go all wonky
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:53 pm
by ftoohh
ive gotta take the wing off mine, the constant vibration has loosen what little there was from the factory holding it, and stretched the original holes for the plugs )
ah well, will suit the new kit better with no wing anyway, and one less thing to rattle

Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:45 pm
by MissxFTO
nvdfto wrote:dont worry dude its a common thing for boot lids to crack due to the bass come`n from the sub
nothing we can do abt it. unless u want sh*tty sound with no bass then dont get a sub or else boot is gonna go all wonky
You dont have to have a sub/s to have a good quality sounding stereo system
Component speakers amped properly with 6x9's give out a crystal quality sound and some nice bass aswell

without taking your boot space or ruining it. It also helps if you know how to tune.
I have that at the moment and i get a lot of comments asking what i have hiding in the boot.. and its NOTHING!!

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:28 am
by oodLes
I'm quickly becoming the same way MissxFTO, I changed the rear 6x9's and soon to change the front 6's and with proper tuning and just an amp you can get some very very good results.
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 12:06 pm
by FtoSam
Personally i think the best setup is:
Small good quality sub (pioneer 12" are great and really cheap)... only need one small sub..
Good amp to run it.. (anything over 300Wrms is fine)
6x9s in the rear... (doesnt matter.. dont amp them.. under $100 is fine)
Best 6.5" Splits you can afford... (make sure they have an external crossover)
Brands like MBQuartz, Boston Acoustics, etc... Get the Best...
High Quality 2ch Amp for them...
For example, I only spent about $180 on my sub (inc box) and about $400 on its amp (800W Pioneer)...
Spent $75 on my sony 6x9s
Spent $480 on my Kenwood 4ch (bridged to 2ch) Amp for the front speakers
Spent $1099 on my Boston Acoustic Pro Series Front Speakers...
You can see from that where your priorities should lie...
Rear speakers are only for "fill" when you have a sub...
And a nice quality 12" sub will give you some beautiful bass...
Cannot stress enough about good front speakers...
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:32 pm
by boarsai
I love my dual 10's, very punchy... altho I don't have rear speakers at all... Don't think I could live without 'em.
My stereos not tuned for volume... heck it's not tuned at all since I installed the new HU. Still sounds great though
My rear number plate is close to coming off... also the welding.

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:25 am
by DanXbix
I have a 15" & 450watt amp and my weld has broken too must be some weak weld or to much bass

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:28 pm
by TCGPX
They're not welds, it's glued!
Hence after 10 years or so they don't stick up too well.
Mine went when I put in my amped 6x9's before I went to a sub.
Go down to the hardware store and get some good quality construction grade adhesive like Sikaflex (tubes you use in a caulking gun). You can push the boot skin up a little to give a bit more of a gap to get a good bead inbetween the frame and the skin. Run this around the edges of the frame, just make sure the frames are NOT COMPLETELY SEALED.
Did mine nearly 2 yrs ago, It's taken a hell of a pounding from my 380WRMS sub and still standing up to it...
Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:38 am
by Bennoz
And its a form of Sikaflex they use from the factory too! There's nothing it cant do
