FTO AUSTRALIA

Hey guys -

Car has done 145 clicks - just wondering what is avg length of time in a gearbox (assuming correct oil change / normal driving) ?

Mine has been a bit notchy in first and second for a while but generally ok. Had the oil changed today and its worse!!!

Does it take a bit of time for the new oil to bed?
Is there anything I can do to promote a longer life?
SIgns that it is dead?

EURO wrote:Hey guys -

Car has done 145 clicks - just wondering what is avg length of time in a gearbox (assuming correct oil change / normal driving) ?

Mine has been a bit notchy in first and second for a while but generally ok. Had the oil changed today and its worse!!!

Does it take a bit of time for the new oil to bed?
Is there anything I can do to promote a longer life?
SIgns that it is dead?

Dave your Manual right? Check u PM.

manual yeh

If its a manual when they start to wear out they tend to make whining noises and grinding , most gearboxes will make a slight whine but thats normal, but if it make a loud whine like louder than road noise and is there all the time in every gear then you got problems, this probably means that the bearing have died.
Then they can have trouble getting into gear, or jumping out of gear, they are the signs of that the gearbox is about to go, but the gearbox should live for a long time, even out live the engine only time a gearbox should fail is if it has had a hard life or not well maintained.

ok, it makes no noise, and never jumps out of gear. Just can be 'notchy' getting into first and down to second - just a little annoying really. Having driven the car for a bit its actually improved - maybe the oil needed to bed a little - i am not sure.

EURO wrote:ok, it makes no noise, and never jumps out of gear. Just can be 'notchy' getting into first and down to second - just a little annoying really. Having driven the car for a bit its actually improved - maybe the oil needed to bed a little - i am not sure.

I got that a bit when I changed my oil. Do you find it gets better once the car (and gearbox) oil has warmed up?

While on this topic, Ben, what is the chance of me wrecking a gear box with my new found power??? GB is the last original part in the car, everything else has pretty much been replaced.. It would have 160,000kms on it... but has never had a single problem. Although Reverse can sometimes be a bitch to get into.. pump pump pump on clutch... thunk... ahh its in...

Sorry, got distracted there

The F5M45 box (the one we have in the FTO's) is pretty strong. I've never heard of anyone blowing one up... mind you... with your luck

If you have to pump to get it into gear then more than likely theres a failure or wear in either the clutch slave or clutch master cylinder.

FtoSam wrote:pump pump pump on clutch... thunk... ahh its in...

Sounds kinda like a p0rno I have.... "Anal action no#23 - Whats behind the brown door"

Yeah its an original clutch too! lol... though its being replaced with an Excedy Sports Organic clutch. Sucka cost like $800 or something... but its ment to be the best. And barely heavier than std...

And if anyone can break a gearbox, its gonna be me.
Meh, as usualy, if it breaks i'll get new and improved... change up the ratios for a slightly longer 1st gear and longer 5th (never use 5th unless cruising on the highway so would be good to drop the revs to save fuel)
3rd and 4th are perfect though... love 4th with a turbo... 3,000rpm is right in a good spot... plenty of revs to go, and full boost... mmm i want my car to be finished already... oh thats right... more news
**toddles off to the Turbo Section**

FtoSam wrote:Yeah its an original clutch too! lol... though its being replaced with an Excedy Sports Organic clutch. Sucka cost like $800 or something... but its ment to be the best. And barely heavier than std...

Well, if you read my info about clutch probs at the drags in the NSW section, I'd be going for something even heavier again... I was beating the clutch into gear, it couldnt handle the hard clutch drops at speed - and mine is the Excedy sports organic....

Yeah, well i want something thats not too sharp, that i loose traction between gears... and with this setup, at boost snapping into 3rd from 2nd will just let the tyres go mental.

If it starts boost sliping (like the original did at 2,700rpm) i'll take it to direct clutches to get it uprated. (they built adams clutch which he's hammered for the past 2 years and has never had an issue with his 350-400hp FTO

FtoSam wrote:Yeah, well i want something thats not too sharp, that i loose traction between gears... and with this setup, at boost snapping into 3rd from 2nd will just let the tyres go mental.

If it starts boost sliping (like the original did at 2,700rpm) i'll take it to direct clutches to get it uprated. (they built adams clutch which he's hammered for the past 2 years and has never had an issue with his 350-400hp FTO

Hey Sam,

Could you still rate Direct Clutches as a good place to go for clutch work?

EURO wrote:ok, it makes no noise, and never jumps out of gear. Just can be 'notchy' getting into first and down to second - just a little annoying really. Having driven the car for a bit its actually improved - maybe the oil needed to bed a little - i am not sure.

Synchros

FTEvolution wrote:

EURO wrote:ok, it makes no noise, and never jumps out of gear. Just can be 'notchy' getting into first and down to second - just a little annoying really. Having driven the car for a bit its actually improved - maybe the oil needed to bed a little - i am not sure.

Synchros

Yeah, two years ago maybe