FTO AUSTRALIA

I cant access the current thread anymore, keeps timing out for last week now.
Created this thread to update on progress,
When the problem is resolved with the first thread, could mods please combine both threads

Havent done much last week,
It was just too hot in Melbourne, therefore in my garage,
Did bit more last night, drilled the firewall for the clutch pedal

Drilling was a big challenge, took a long time to finish mostly due to the inadequete tools
Also, remember that you only have one chance,
Everything checked 3 times and then I just had a go at it.
Put a wood block between the firewall and engine/pipes
Initially, I tried to be cheap, bought a set of hole saw for $9.95, 12 blades which you only use the 38mm one anyways, it went blind in about 30 secs.
then I tired to be even more cheaper and bought the same set again, and tried to go slower this time, not much pressure applied.
It took about 2 mins this time to go blind.
What an idiot!!!
Had enough!!! back to Bunnings, bought the hole saw 38mm for $30 + f**king adaptor $45,
Latest tools did the job well in about 10 mins, all done.
One lesson learned well with all these experience is that you need the corrent, quality tools.

I managed to put the pedals in this morning,


I made a water proof gasket for the master, from the inner plastic lining of the car


However, got couple of questions;
Q1: The brake booster doesnt seem to be flash covering the firewall. Is this normal?
Refer to below photos, there is about 3-5mm gap between the firewall and brake booster


Q2: I cant figure out where to screw the clutch hydrolic piping, refer to below photo outlined in red

any help guys?
Q1)
Q2)

Did some more work on Sunday,
Drive plate taken off


Flywheel and the metal gasket attached, it only goes one way as the distance between each bolts are different.


Clutch and pressure plate attached, using the clutch alignment tool.


Alignment tool taken off, bearing attached to the gearbox, and all ready to go in. Beer time!

Ok, had couple of beers, my friend come to help raising the gearbox.
Using garage jack to raise in stages, supporting with bricks after each stage.
Also had to take out the bottom coolant hose, radiator drained.

After 4+ hours solid work later, we had to call the quit!
It is so close, yet so far.
I had to take off the 2xblack mount holders on gearbox as well to gain some extra space
We come very close, but cant go any further.
G/box raised enough, however, the problem is, the rear of the g/box is hitting the control arm,
Just need to push the g/box towards the engine another 2cms, but there is not enough space.


This doesn’t seem to be a job that can be done with garage jack and bricks.
Lesson learned again, need the correct tools!!!
So, looking for a g/box jack at the moment, not sure where to hire one from.
Also, I will remove the battery holder bracket completely to get some extra space.

Should be able to get on of those stands that have wheels. They arew the best for rolling g/boxes around on. Might have to visit a tool shop for that.

Man... once you got the box on, the hard work is all done! Its just fiddly little stuff after that.

Q1 - That gap is normal
Q2 - That should bolt onto the bulkhead just next to where the heater water line runs into the cabin. You may not have the hole, so it might be a drill job.

Thanks Ben
Yeah, not far away at the moment,
Bit sore today, my ribs are killing me, all that bending from top to hold the g/box up

All that search today, I couldnt find a place to hire a transmission jack,
I think I might buy one and try to sell it later, as I want to put the g/box up this week.
Need to get the trolley looking transmission jack, not the stand which is too high to start with.
Not many places sell them also.