FTO AUSTRALIA

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

Bennoz wrote:I think I paid about $175 per cam gear. No, no issue with sensor, they drill & tap the holes for the plate to bolt on. In my case the Haltech only wanted one pickup point, so I ground 3 of the 4 tabs off the plate.

How come you didn't opt for the RPW cam gears, as they are $500 for the set?

Also, nice gearbox casing

Bennoz wrote:Gearbox casing is back from Competition Coatings

$200 for a metallic red ceramic coating on both sections of the case.

That looks great .

spetz wrote:

Bennoz wrote:I think I paid about $175 per cam gear. No, no issue with sensor, they drill & tap the holes for the plate to bolt on. In my case the Haltech only wanted one pickup point, so I ground 3 of the 4 tabs off the plate.

How come you didn't opt for the RPW cam gears, as they are $500 for the set?

Also, nice gearbox casing

i got these but they arent so good as they dont have degree markings on them....
so it would be like guessing when it came to tuning... not something you want to do!

New rear wheel bearings / hub assembly done last night

Secondary (output) shaft for the gearbox now complete with new shaft / final drive gear, new 3rd gear & a shot peening of 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear cogs.



All bearing shells & seals (input shaft & rear mains) now pressed back into gearbox casing. Started on peripherals like the brackets & speedo sensor etc.

Freaking awesome...

It's getting so close to being back on the road .

^ yet again...

Gholdwayne wrote:^ yet again...

Can't wait to shotgun a joyride in it though!

Looking great Bennoz!

What springs/shocks are those you have there? They look like they have that C clip perch for height adjustability?
Also, are you doing the assembly by yourself?

They're Teins

Yep, all this magic is happening in my man cave. I got tired of paying someone else to do all this loooong ago, so I taught myself!

Finished the input shaft / cluster last night. Nothing fancy here, it was all still in pretty good nic, just needed new bearings pressed on to either end & a lube.
So that's all the box internals now done with the exception of the diff. Which I'll make some calls about today.

And the Teins, they are just springs/shocks right?
However height adjustable? Front and rear?

When you do you expect the car to be on the road?
And, did you find out the rod length for the 12 and 13?

They are a spring & shock combo, unlike the coilovers (HA's) these are the NA's. Both height and damper adjustable. I've also had these ones resprung & valved to suit Aus conditions.

Gonna chase up the guys who are trying to source my diff today. That's all Im waiting on.
Not got rod lengths yet.

What diff are you getting again Ben? Not going for a quaife?

Hoping to get a Ralliart factory helical LSD.

Have you seen the cost of the Quaife units? Would be $1600 by the time I got it landed here....

How much is that ralliart unit? I would love to have a limo diff

SO whats been going on here?

I used to have the helical LSD...
I never drove my car (after the engine conversion) without an LSD but to be honest I don't think it worked wonders. I wouldn't spin the inside wheel but I think that was more due to really good tires, really good suspension, and lack of any real power. I think the issue with helical LSD's is that all they do is somewhat hinder the natural tendency to single spin, however once it does spin one wheel it'll keep going like an open diff.
In contrast I have a Cusco 1.5 way right now which works a million times better, and is actually really impressive however it isn't "smooth" and seems really hardcore. I did try to put 1 wheel on grass and 1 wheel on pavement and launched it and still had impressive traction without single spinning

Well the diff that was in it was a Cusco MZ.... and I destroyed it. They're just not designed to take the power.

The helicals from the Cyborg Mirage is what Im after. They're actually adjustable by changing gear sets in them!