FTO AUSTRALIA

Vectose wrote:Facelift control arms FTW!

Yep, that's what's needed

Bennoz, is it better to run Superpro rear control arm bushes or the OEM Mitsubishi ones?
Not sure if the Mitsubishi ones are bushes or spherical links, versus the Superpro which are just bushes I am pretty sure?

Shane001 wrote:

Vectose wrote:Facelift control arms FTW!

Yep, that's what's needed

Or Evo IV, V or VI arms

Stronger cast arms rather than pressed metal, you can use the facelift bush and they have the swaybar mount point on the arm.

Score would be the VI arms, made from light cast alloy.

Only modification required is to press out the Evo ball joints & press in the FTO taper style ball joints.

spetz wrote:Bennoz, is it better to run Superpro rear control arm bushes or the OEM Mitsubishi ones?
Not sure if the Mitsubishi ones are bushes or spherical links, versus the Superpro which are just bushes I am pretty sure?

I prefer the OEM bushes on the rear arms. As you say, they're spherical links as opposed to 2 bushes & a crush tube.

Shane001 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Bushes the wrong way round

Nope, they both turned first session on track at bathurst

Had to run the whole weekend with them like this

Brand new bushes as I noticed at WP a few weeks back the wheel alignment was suddenly out on the front, and the right hand bush (2 years old) had turned. When I pulled em out to swap them for the new ones I noticed the nipple on the left hand bush was about to fail also. Anyway long story short, they're being replaced by non offset poly bushes this weekend.

Did you put grease between the chassis and the bush? If so, that's why they've spun. The only grease is supposed to go between the control arm pin and the bush. If you lube up the outside of the bush, of course it's going to spin. The idea is that the outside grips the chassis and holds it in place, while the inside houses the control arm pin allowing it to move as necessary without the whole bush rotating.

fraz91 wrote:

Shane001 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Bushes the wrong way round

Nope, they both turned first session on track at bathurst

Had to run the whole weekend with them like this

Brand new bushes as I noticed at WP a few weeks back the wheel alignment was suddenly out on the front, and the right hand bush (2 years old) had turned. When I pulled em out to swap them for the new ones I noticed the nipple on the left hand bush was about to fail also. Anyway long story short, they're being replaced by non offset poly bushes this weekend.

Did you put grease between the chassis and the bush? If so, that's why they've spun. The only grease is supposed to go between the control arm pin and the bush. If you lube up the outside of the bush, of course it's going to spin. The idea is that the outside grips the chassis and holds it in place, while the inside houses the control arm pin allowing it to move as necessary without the whole bush rotating.

Interesting you would say this, but yes we did follow SuperPro instructions and applied grease to all surfaces in contact with metal. I also did this on the previous set and they lasted 2 years (or thereabouts). They have a nipple that holds them in place in the bracket, this sheared off on both bushes, and on the old one that turned.

Shane001 wrote:

silverGPX wrote:What's the positive castor bushes part no again?

U don't want to know, based on my experience I'd avoid them.

I actually NEED them, or my tyres will scrub.

Ive actually ripped the control arm through the sides and cracked them.

Tyre scrub is generally incorrect toe settings, nothing to do with the castor offset rear bush (other than needing to be correctly wheel aligned after fitting).

But, if you insist
MR102656/MR102655 Mitsubishi Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - Left & Right
SPF1160K Superflex Polyurethane Front Control Arm Front Inner Bushing
SPF1502AK Superflex Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster
SPF1160K SuperPro Polyurethane Front Control Arm Front Inner Bushing
SPF1500K SuperPro Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing
SPF1502AK SuperPro Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster
SPF1502XK SuperPro Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster & Antilift
KCA317 Whiteline Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster
KCA317X Whiteline Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster & Antilift
45364 Nolathane Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing - plus Caster
45362 Nolathane Polyurethane Front Control Arm Rear Bushing

Difficult to explain Shane need the wheels as far forward as I can get.

What is diff in the bushings in terms of the plus castor and the plus castor with antilift?

silverGPX wrote:Difficult to explain Shane need the wheels as far forward as I can get.

Then you've got some other major problem going on. Fix the problem, not the symptom.
Could be very dangerous to you and others otherwise.

silverGPX wrote: What is diff in the bushings in terms of the plus castor and the plus castor with antilift?

Good question. My guess, nothing...

Shane001 wrote:

silverGPX wrote:Difficult to explain Shane need the wheels as far forward as I can get.

Then you've got some other major problem going on. Fix the problem, not the symptom.
Could be very dangerous to you and others otherwise.

silverGPX wrote: What is diff in the bushings in terms of the plus castor and the plus castor with antilift?

Good question. My guess, nothing...

No, there's no problem, its just my wheels are big and I'm trying to eliminate scrubbage on the inner guard

Well I just had a chat to one of the guys at Fulcrum and gave him a full run down on what happened.

They do generally recommend that all faces in contact with metal are lubricated, but in this case he suggested it should be OK to install these dry (with only the centre hole lubricated) as there should be minimal movement on the outside of these bushes.

A possible explanation as to why these turned so quickly whereas my old set were OK for a couple of years could be a change of grease that they supply with the bushes. SuperPro are now supplying a silicon based grease. Whereas my old set were installed with the white grease they previously supplied. It's possible the silicon grease may be 'slipperyer,er'

Anyway, he's going to feed this info back to R&D. Regardless they are covered under warranty anyway as SuperPro now has lifetime warranty including motorsport use.

I'll be installing the SuperPro non offset bushes this weekend, dry on the outside. Personally I would avoid the castor offset bushes for this application in the future. There is simply too much force on these bushes for the little 8mm nipple to prevent them from turning. Sooner or later they will turn. IMHO

So what if u drilled a few self tappers thru the mount and into the bush maybe a few mm in to keep it still?

silverGPX wrote:So what if u drilled a few self tappers thru the mount and into the bush maybe a few mm in to keep it still?

It'd rip it to shreds I'd say.

Shane001 wrote: SuperPro now has lifetime warranty including motorsport use.

Result!

Bennoz wrote:

silverGPX wrote:So what if u drilled a few self tappers thru the mount and into the bush maybe a few mm in to keep it still?

It'd rip it to shreds I'd say.

This ^^^

This bush cops a lot of force in multiple directions. Just have a look at how squashed up a stock bush is when you remove it that has been in since factory.

We thought of somehow putting a bolt up from the bottom through the nipple hole to somehow hold it from turning, but there is only a couple of millimetres clearance to the control arm 'post'. It's possible you could put something down from the top but it would be very difficult to do and might weaken the bush (you would need to drill into the bush).

Best option if you want positive castor, facelift or evo arms.

Stick to the OEM stuff I reckon, its cheaper and you know it will work!

Let see how long these bad boys last. Much better than their previous effort I must say.

Might have to be the guinea pig for these things as well...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151051399608 ... 1423.l2649

Noob question. What do these kinds of parts do?

Bennoz wrote:Might have to be the guinea pig for these things as well...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151051399608 ... 1423.l2649

Straight swap or do they require modification?

Any benefits over a version R rear control arm?