FTO AUSTRALIA

I may as well have a f*cken rudder

Had to have a self chuckle the other day thou, to keep the heat down in the engine bay, I've removed the rubber seal that goes along the back edge of the engine bay. I've taken off from the lights in a hurry this morning - in this rain - and instantly the amount of heat that came thru that little gap, up the windscreen, completely fogged my window. It was like a white out

its great seeing every thing and then nothing in a heart beat
But are you sure that the loss of vision was from the rain and heat or the loss of blod from your head (G force) as its been sucked to the >>> whait for it >>> ( "wORD Filt er">>>>>) Bens big penis making you see white due to the power and sound of your car?

Just ordered some more goodies. Got the second 12" fan coming from VPW.

Also got a 2 litre catch can from tham as well.



They buy all their stuff from this mob:
http://pfefittings.com/

Some good stuff in there.

Fitted the second 12" fan. Got no f*cking idea where I'll fit the catch can thou Looks mint thou, shame it'll probably end up under the wheel arch!

Samco hoses are on too

That's f**king sweet

aza013 wrote:That's f**king sweet

Yeah... it is

FTEvolution wrote:

aza013 wrote:That's f**king sweet

Yeah... it is

+3

Here's all the Samco hoses on

looking good mate those hoses make a world of difference!

do you have any clearance issues with the bonnet & the engine cover, or the lower passenger side radiator hose touching the clutch release fork?

very nice, it should be in an art gallery

mr-charisma wrote:do you have any clearance issues with the bonnet & the engine cover, or the lower passenger side radiator hose touching the clutch release fork?

Yeah, bonnet wont clear it. I've even dropped the motor down 4mm via washers under the crossmember mounts. Just have to wait till I vent the bonnet, then it'll fit.

If you're having issues with the clutch arm touching the lower radiator line, then that tells me your lower radiator pipe is for a tip, not a manual. The manual pipe has an extra bend in it specifically to clear that arm. And from memory, your car was a tip prior to its conversion...

have you ceramic coated the headers and stuff if not you should will cut down a lot of the heat to and prob make your turbo run better as it will make the gases flow faster

Yeah, all HPC coated already.

Well, I flogged seven shades of sh*t out of it the other day & the temp didn't budge an inch bigger fan did the trick.

Nice a new therostat and coolant flush fixed mine =) how much did the coatings cost dose your intake get hot at all with that coating

Bennoz wrote:Yeah, all HPC coated already.

Well, I flogged seven shades of sh*t out of it the other day & the temp didn't budge an inch bigger fan did the trick.

What fan was it that you ended up getting ...

I am having some cooling problems with the Kingswood, and want to put in a new fan instead of the motor driven one ... Was looking at the Craig Davis ones, but I remembered you found a better one that was cheaper ...

rock_it wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Yeah, all HPC coated already.

Well, I flogged seven shades of sh*t out of it the other day & the temp didn't budge an inch bigger fan did the trick.

What fan was it that you ended up getting ...

I am having some cooling problems with the Kingswood, and want to put in a new fan instead of the motor driven one ... Was looking at the Craig Davis ones, but I remembered you found a better one that was cheaper ...

Yeah, jump onto http://www.vpw.com.au and have a look at the ACE brand.

Lemmie know if your interested, I'll be able to get you a trade price.

Finally got off my arse & pulled the driveshafts out today

Found the best way to pop them out too (gearbox coupling & all)
The driver side one, once the castle nut & hub was disconnected, I got under the car & used a ball joint splitter. Just tapped it in under the cup (gearbox end) and gave it a swift wack.
Out she popped & I had the oil drain bucket under it ready to catch the fallout. What did I catch?.... another wad of watery Royal Purple



Then the second shaft posed more of a problem to get out, the casting / webbing of the gearbox doesn't allow any room to pop the ball joint splitter in to wack the joint out.
So after 2 beers & 3 smokes, I came up with an idea.... wack it out from the drivers side! Nothing you can't do with an old curtain rod!



Strangely enough, the CV joints were not too bad, the inner joints however were a different story. I had over a full mm of playin the drivers side joint, about 3/4 of a mm in the passenger.
I'll do the CV's anyway (being the perfect opportunity while the shafts are out) but yeah, inner joints need doing badly. Would certainly explain the shuddering & clanging I get on take off,
especially round a corner, or up a hill.



So Im off to my dodgy asian driveshaft guy tomorrow
If you're interested, he'll do an FTO CV joint for 90 bucks.

Dodgy asian guys business card / magnet / sticker wrote:Sydney Drive Shaft (lol at the missing 's')
David Fang
5/12 Garling Road
Kings Park NSW 2148
9672 4818, 9518 0869, 0416 101 085

And here's a shot of what big horsepower can do.
This is the split pin that goes through the end of the driveshaft.
The torque twist through the shaft has spun the castle nut up tighter over the split pin
Was a special treat to get off

think it would explain the clanking I get at take off as well? i get reverberations through the whole car when I don't launch exactly smoothly..

snapped a good quality pry bar trying to get those eff'ers out, hard when its only up n jacks

went to these guys last time to get one of my inner joints done, 10 minute wait and $30 bucks

http://www.acvps.com.au/index.html

located in rydalmere

sh*t maybe look into a titanium split pin?

How'd you manage to get a curtain rod through, wouldn't the differential be in the way?