The Suspension Thread

[Vectose]

electric mirrors

They have electric mirrors, just no folding mechanism.

[Shane001]

I remember reading from some website, maybe from nolathane, that the grease should only be applied on the internal surface of the bush (where it is in contact with the sway bar, and not anywhere else.

My understanding is grease should be applied wherever the bush is in contact with metal.

[Taz]

electric mirrors

They have electric mirrors, just no folding mechanism.

Yea thats what i meant

[ZFL45H1]

I remember reading from some website, maybe from nolathane, that the grease should only be applied on the internal surface of the bush (where it is in contact with the sway bar, and not anywhere else.

My understanding is grease should be applied wherever the bush is in contact with metal.

+1 I just installed some bushes not long ago and that's what the instructions said

[Bennoz]

I remember reading from some website, maybe from nolathane, that the grease should only be applied on the internal surface of the bush (where it is in contact with the sway bar, and not anywhere else.

My understanding is grease should be applied wherever the bush is in contact with metal.

+1 I just installed some bushes not long ago and that's what the instructions said

Yes, absolutely. Coat them in it.

[zuihoujueding]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl1oNpGHDN0

[Bennoz]

I disagree.

I've owned my car so long now I've had to replace poly bushes 2 & 3 times so far. Have you ever seen the state of the outer facing on a non lubricated surface of a used bush? They fret to the shithouse & wear badly. All my bushes that have been completely coated, have lasted twice as long.

Furthermore to this, that lithium style grease is completely useless at resisting water spray at high speed. It just washes off. Everyone should be re-lubing their poly bushes at least once a year. Inside and out.

[Shane001]

Totally agree with Ben.

Obviously you don't grease metal casings as in the video, but IMO you should grease all poly surfaces in contact with metal.

Maybe Nolathane just want you to buy more bushes

[fraz91]

Depends on where the bush is being used. For example, you'd never grease a leaf-spring bush where the bush contacts the spring, as it's not supposed to move around there. If it does move, there's a very high chance it'll start to squeak and wear away at the face contacting the chassis.As it says in the video: "Do Not grease pressed fit surfaces (i.e. outer shell) or outside of shackle bushes"

You have to appreciate the forces at work on these bushes (not saying you don't understand, but more to just remember it). Greasing the outer face as well as the inner face means that there is more chance of movement around a part of the bush that is supposed to stay fixed. For example: the sway-bar D-bushes. I wouldn't bother greasing the outside that contacts the retaining bracket, as this'll allow it to move from side to side in the bracket. You want the D-bush staying put in the bracket with the sway-bar only twisting. If the bush can move side to side, then there's a chance that the whole bar is moving with it. Now imagine this kind of movement in a trailing arm or lower control arm.

[zuihoujueding]

Agree to that.

[Bennoz]

Also finally installed my Megan Racing control arms I bought from the US nearly a year ago

This was pretty straight forward. Just remove the stock arms, pre set the Megan Racing arms to approx the same length and then reinstall. You will require a wheel alignment after installing these, but they make adjusting toe and camber much easier obviously.

I managed to get the lengths pretty much spot on so the end result toe settings were almost unchanged.

MeganRacing1.JPG

MeganRacing2.JPG

MeganRacing3.JPG

MeganRacing4.JPG

I've just ordered a set of these bad boys, considering I can't get a decent alignment out of the rear

When you did the one closest to the front of the arm Shane, did you bin the eliptical alignment bolts in place of normal ones? Just have the arms do the adjustment?

[Shane001]

No, I used the same bolts and washers, preset to the same positions I had with the stock arms. I also pre set the arm lenght to be similar for the adjustable arms. So by the time I put it all together I didn't actually have to do any further adjustments. Though I probably will next time I'm at WP, currently running a little too much toe in and also looking to run less camber on the rear, but need to do more testing to confirm.

[Bennoz]

I might go for standard bolts. The adjuster ones are all but stripped out again on mine

I got 2 new tyres coming, so may as well get it aligned properly with these arms at the same time.

[Shane001]

You'll want some big washers either side though to make sure this bolt can't move.

[Bennoz]

Yeah, I'll make something up. Could even throw a blob of weld on there

[skippy]

I did a search, didn't really put out desired results...

I'm currently running KYB AGX struts and whiteline, maybe lovells SL springs... but, just not cutting it for me.
Now I know I can get inverted coilovers for the FTO, which are practically a direct bolt up to the lancers (we lancer owners find out a lot in the sense of what can bolt up )
But that main question is, does anyone run the BC inverted's, are they decent? any better noticeable performance on the street/track? Worth the extra dough?

[ZFL45H1]

I have the BC racing gold BR series I love them sometimes though bit harsh when on sh*tty roads but other wise awesome

[BI65ND]

I did a search, didn't really put out desired results...

I'm currently running KYB AGX struts and whiteline, maybe lovells SL springs... but, just not cutting it for me.
Now I know I can get inverted coilovers for the FTO, which are practically a direct bolt up to the lancers (we lancer owners find out a lot in the sense of what can bolt up )
But that main question is, does anyone run the BC inverted's, are they decent? any better noticeable performance on the street/track? Worth the extra dough?

Man I'm full of help for you today Skip. I am running the inverted RMs - 8kg front 6kg rear. I am more than happy with them. If it was a daily driver I would have gone 7/5, but as you know I don't drive the mirage a whole lot. For street use, you won't notice a whole lot of difference from the BRs, but the inverted damper is designed to give you benefits on the track. This is straight from the BC website on what the advantages are:

Unsprung weight is reduced by moving the oil and gas reservoir way from the hub and attaching it to the shell. Unsprung weight is vital to a cars performance as a lighter wheel and hub assembly which readily moves in response to road bumps will have more grip when tracking over an imperfect road.

And in all their glory:

[fraz91]

I don't understand how that's an inverted shock. From the photos, it looks like just a standard twin-tube strut with an screw-adjustable coil seat attached to the body of the outer tube. Or am I missing something here?...

[Shane001]

I don't understand how that's an inverted shock. From the photos, it looks like just a standard twin-tube strut with an screw-adjustable coil seat attached to the body of the outer tube. Or am I missing something here?...

Was wondering that myself, an inverted shock has the body attached to the car and only the piston rod attached to the suspension/hub.