FTO AUSTRALIA

Posted: **Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:33 pm**

Wouldn't that make the other arms work at an angle?
I assume the stock bush is centered in the middle?

Posted: **Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:17 pm**

Coming to FTO Australia for advice.... Facepalm.

:facepalm:

Posted: **Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:35 pm**

the real technikhaus wrote:Coming to FTO Australia for advice.... Facepalm.

Perhaps you should have left the massive wall of waffle out & some of the Gen Y kids here may have actually read it rather than tl;dr'ing it

What you wrote:

the real technikhaus wrote:Hey guys!

Not sure if i should put this here or in its own thread so mods feel free to move

So went in for a WoF (Warrant of Fitness) today! Was really good, got 20c off per litre for that and 4 cents off when I bought new Oil, Filter, Petrol Injector cleaner, and Antifreeze coolant! So like 24 cents off a litre Oh and petrol prices have dropped! YAY now 98 only costs like $2.279 or 2.039 with the discount!

But anyway... money is only half of the topic of interest. The main part is the WoF and its requirements (BTW, every time I go and get a WoF I get complimented on the car:D I Love it!... Wow... I'm getting off topic...)

Anyway. Thankfully had a really nice guy who passed the car, and pointed out moisture around the front passenger shock absorber. He said that before the next WoF it will need to be replaced. So I thought... maybe its time to do a full suspension kit upgrade? I don't necessarily want to lower the car... yet. So adjustable's are looking promising so that I can lower it now, but lift it back up when I get the body kit and new rims as well as many other benefits

However, they come with a huge price and the need for a Cert Plate...

Anyone have any recommendations or comments about this? I've seen a fully adjustable kit for around $1k not including shipping and a Tien Racing kit for around 1.5k not Incl. Shipping.
Dont really have that much...I mean, for that I can have body kit!!!

So that's the delio...
Oh and I need to reseal my foggie pods Had a bit of water in them... hopefully will be sanding the inside to remove the vertical lines making it clear!

Nick.

EDIT: And no I haven't quite read through this whole thread yet so sorry If you need to repeat a little. I'll get there eventually

What you should have written:

the real technikhaus wrote:So I thought... maybe its time to do a full suspension kit upgrade? I don't necessarily want to lower the car... yet. So adjustable's are looking promising so that I can lower it now, but lift it back up when I get the body kit and new rims as well as many other benefits

Anyone have any recommendations or comments about this? I've seen a fully adjustable kit for around $1k not including shipping and a Tien Racing kit for around 1.5k not Incl. Shipping.

Then you should have taken your own advice:

the real technikhaus wrote:EDIT: And no I haven't quite read through this whole thread yet so sorry If you need to repeat a little. I'll get there eventually

Then you'd have a pretty good idea as to whats available, for how much & where from.

This information was brought to you courtesy of FTO Australia. HTH

Posted: **Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:26 pm**

Bennoz wrote:This information was brought to you courtesy of FTO Australia. HTH

I was waiting to see who would reply to this

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:09 pm**

OK my rear trailing arms are now out, from the pic below it now makes sense how this bush installs.

Now I just have to get the old bushes out. Ben, any chance I can drop by and use your press tomorrow

Posted: **Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:55 am**

Your welcome to try, but I don't reckon you'll get that off on my press. I had to used my mechanics big one to get it out. Plus he had a monster socket that fit under the bush which sort of created the perfect jig.

Be easier cutting a slice in the bush sleeve with a pneumatic saw I'd reckon.

Posted: **Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:58 am**

Bennoz wrote:Your welcome to try, but I don't reckon you'll get that off on my press. I had to used my mechanics big one to get it out. Plus he had a monster socket that fit under the bush which sort of created the perfect jig.

Be easier cutting a slice in the bush sleeve with a pneumatic saw I'd reckon.

Are you feeling alright Ben?

Posted: **Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:12 pm**

I'll get it:

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:40 pm**

OK, had a chat with Ben yesterday and a bit more of a think about this, and decided to go to town on the bush with my cordless drill

I used a 6mm drill bit and drilled holes all around the outside of the rubber bush as close as possible together, then drilled at an angle to cut out as much of the rest, then finished off with the multi tool in the pic until the centre fell out. That's the easy bit out of the way!
Edit: The bent drill was a 4mm, a bit thin for this tough old rubber bush

Now to get the metal outer casing out. I did as Ben suggested and got a hacksaw to the casing from the inside, being careful not to cut too far as I didn't want to score the housing itself. Once this was cut through I got the hammer out and bent it down, then hammered a screwdriver in between the casing and the housing to separate them.

Now to do the other one. Then I just need to give them a good clean up and start putting it all back together

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:47 pm**

Nicely done

Press-less bush removal

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:23 pm**

Bennoz wrote: Press-less bush removal

Yep, and potentially this is better for the housing as well, as you're not scraping the bush casing on the housing as you press it out.

Interesting the casing did seem to have 'fused' a little to the housing also. Even after cutting it I had to jimmy it free of the housing almost all the way around with a screwdriver. I guess heat and pressure over time.

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:33 pm**

Which is why I found it such a c@nt to press out I imagine...

Posted: **Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:48 am**

Anyone have used these before?
http://iscsuspension-na.com/application-guide/

Any review on these?

Posted: **Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:01 pm**

are the front struts the cartridge type, if you know what I mean?

Posted: **Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:31 pm**

Technikhaus wrote:are the front struts the cartridge type, if you know what I mean?

Bump?

Nick's FTO needs new suspension,
We went into a suspension store, they sell Bilstein suspension, and can order in suspension cartridges.
They said to confirm that the FTO's suspension accepts cartridges...
Any ideas?

thanks.

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:15 pm**

Way back in 2007...

Bennoz wrote:As promised, here this weeks suspension tweak

Am going to try what has been previously unavailable for the FTO - Upgraded front droplinks. The rears are available as a standard Whiteline upgrade, but the fronts have not been previously.

Like a few of you, I run the 18mm adjustable Whiteline swaybar up front & compared to the standard sway, it tends to wear out the front droplinks at a much quicker rate than the norm.

With a standard set of droplinks costing around $120 (landed in Aus from Camskill - the cheapest available) I reckon this $197 pack is well worthwhile. If this works, Whiteline will add it to their FTO parts listing.

Matching up the length to the old droplinks - put the new units in a vice to tighten the locknuts on either end of them once you have the length right.

Top end with 6mm spacer sleeve

Had to buy these seperate. 4 x M10 by 50mm high tensile bolts & nyloc nuts to suit

On car

Bottom (swaybar) link with 4mm spacer sleeve

Some of you may recall, back then in 2007 I did this droplink mod. I ended up binning them because of the super poor quality of the ball joints.

With a big fat 24mm swaybar now on the way from Signature Swaybars, I figured I might need to revisit this, as there's gonna be some serious stress on the stock droplinks.

I recall having words with the Whiteline techs back in 07, telling them how sh*t their joints were. I just gave them a call a few minutes ago and low & behold, they adressed the problem

Here is the new style of ball joint available with this kit (obviously turn one end around when locking it in place to suit us.)
A proper style ball joint that is able to deal with the lateral stresses that the old style couldn't.

Direct Link here: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... _vehicle=1

They retail for about $170 odd bucks, but if you can buy at trade price, they come in just under $150 bucks

The part number has changed slightly, the old part number was KLC40 - 195, these new ones are KLC140 - 195

Have got a set on order!

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:24 pm**

Nice

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:26 pm**

f**k I just done my ball joints

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:08 pm**

How about organising a group buy Sir Bennoz.
May even get them cheaper.

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069. PHIL069

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:31 pm**

PHIL069 wrote:How about organising a group buy Sir Bennoz.
May even get them cheaper.

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069. PHIL069

How bout I just buy whoever wants a set at my trade price

FTO AUSTRALIA

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