engine mods what next ?

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:14 pm

Depends what you want your forged pistons for?

With that list, theres no point of getting them.

If you go for forced induction then deffinately go the forged route, because you can increase more boost. Why spend $3600 for forged pistons (pretty expensive quote) when you won't get anything out of them!

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:41 pm

I agree, i wouldn't be bother with foggie, as you won't find any different in N/A. It might make you feel better knowing you have strengten internal every time you give it a "go" but thats about the only benifit with foggies in N/A.

Post by **Bennoz** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:51 pm

All you guys looking for more horsies, stop looking at price lists start calling mechanics & machine shops.

If I was going further with my motor, I'd be pulling the heads off, getting oversize valves put in, having porting work done, looking to have some heavy duty valve springs put it. Also look to increase compression either by decking the head... just look out for valves belting the pistons. Might be looking at incresing the valve scallop size in the pistons.

Your head does the hard work on your motor. Big gains (for NA motors) can be acheived with headwork - its not always a 'blueprinted' process as such. See a good mechnic / machinist and tell them to get creative.

As mentioned - forged internal are wasted on FTO unless they are blown.

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:04 pm

That's right! Pull it out and stick it in!

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:23 pm

Agree Ben, but lots of ppl will & do look at Gain Vs Money. And N/A isn't that great with that ratio.

Post by **Bennoz** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:35 pm

I know... just that a lot of people like spetz have hit the end of the line with the bolt ons... there's nothing left to do in that regard & seeing as they have seemingly have money to spend - and are dead set on staying NA, I figure this would be the next best bang for buck (albeit a pricey one)

Spose the mental $$$$ figure ticking around in my head is also that of pulling the heads off & on myself too... be more pricey if done by a mech gents.

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 4:53 pm

There was a 1.6 VTEC YO!!!!! civic with 2L head on it and heaps of internals.

I think it was pulling 160kw atw. I would love to get that sort of power out of a NA.

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:19 pm

Have you considered increasing displacement? I you can bore the cylinders to accomodate up to 2.1 or 2.2 litre displacement. If you're gonna keep the engine atmo then there's not too much worry about the case cracking on you will it?

SchumieFan · Post by **SchumieFan** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:20 pm

the FTO is 150kw stock(ish) maybe if u plop a galant (magna) head on it u might find some more power

shue · Post by **shue** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:34 pm

according to the uk guys a lightened flywheel should improve low down torque and acceleration. can i use one on a tip ( i sound dumb dont i?

) ???? will it really make a lot of difference in the low end ?

Post by **Bennoz** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:38 pm

Well, putting different heads on can sometimes work, but you may spend more in finding if the compatibility is there... I'd hate to go buy a set of heads only to find they dont fit...

Increasing displacement is the other best bang for buck with the motor in peices. Done in 2 ways - first of which mentioned by Nacho - bore the block out. The process itself is not all that pricey, its then paying for ways of making pistons fit. Buying oversize ones or oversize rings depending on how big you go. I bored my mini out over 80 thou - we bored it so far, the 1 & 4 cylinders had to be 'offset' bored. Meaning they were bored outwards to the ends of the block rather than just enlarging the hole from a central axis. It took the motor from 1275cc (1.275 litre) to 1400cc (1.4 litre) Also hit a water gallery on no 1 piston & had to sleeve the bore....

The other method is to offset grind the crank small end journals - aka stroking. Ie the piston stoke will be longer, increasing compression. One of the V8 motors I built a few years ago was a stroker. All mighty torque but hampered in the high revs. Excess stroking may lead to requiring a cam profile change.

One of the favourite V8's I built was a 327 Chev motor. The 351 block (5.7 litre) with a 308 (5 litre) short stroke crank. Coupled with a stage 5 Heatseeker cam, it revved and pulled hard to 9500rpm. Love big bore short stroker combos

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:02 pm

A solution would be to put on the 2.5l galant mivenc engine head.

RPW do thse. Very expensive though.

SG · Post by SG » Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:57 pm

d_stroy_r wrote:Depends what you want your forged pistons for?

With that list, theres no point of getting them.

You can raise compression with forged pistons cant ya? or you do need more than just strong pistons for that

SchumieFan · Post by **SchumieFan** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:07 am

d_stroy_r wrote:A solution would be to put on the 2.5l galant mivenc engine head.

RPW do thse. Very expensive though.

am i the only 1 who can see my posts? am i fuckin invisable? am i just jerking the chain? or am i beserk and insane?

yes, good idea, put a 6A13 Head on, forge the pistons, put a turbo on and upgrade your gearbox. dump pipes will also help.

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:48 pm

I can read your posts.

I dont think you can put a magna head on a fto. As far as i know. It woulb a much cheaper alternitive.

SG · Post by SG » Wed Jan 18, 2006 8:59 pm

a magna head?
6a13 comes from the galant

the 6a13 head is my next upgrade after everything else if i still like ftos in 2-3 years...

though if i wanted to crack 13 secs instead of 14 secs in that time, i'd spend the 5k towards a basic turbo install instead... i'd love to c a 13sec n/a fto

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:33 pm

Magna= 6G72 or even better 6G74 aka the 3L or the 3.5L magnas.

I wonder of those heads can fit?

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:43 pm

You lot have got me all curious now (and I hate that cause when im curious I spend thousands

)

I'll look into head compatibility. Would be a great upgrade....see if I can get my hands on one of each & see the differences are. See if one can be made to match the other with pure machining etc

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 7:57 pm

Bennoz wrote:Well, putting different heads on can sometimes work, but you may spend more in finding if the compatibility is there... I'd hate to go buy a set of heads only to find they dont fit...

Increasing displacement is the other best bang for buck with the motor in peices. Done in 2 ways - first of which mentioned by Nacho - bore the block out. The process itself is not all that pricey, its then paying for ways of making pistons fit. Buying oversize ones or oversize rings depending on how big you go. I bored my mini out over 80 thou - we bored it so far, the 1 & 4 cylinders had to be 'offset' bored. Meaning they were bored outwards to the ends of the block rather than just enlarging the hole from a central axis. It took the motor from 1275cc (1.275 litre) to 1400cc (1.4 litre) Also hit a water gallery on no 1 piston & had to sleeve the bore....

The other method is to offset grind the crank small end journals - aka stroking. Ie the piston stoke will be longer, increasing compression. One of the V8 motors I built a few years ago was a stroker. All mighty torque but hampered in the high revs. Excess stroking may lead to requiring a cam profile change.

One of the favourite V8's I built was a 327 Chev motor. The 351 block (5.7 litre) with a 308 (5 litre) short stroke crank. Coupled with a stage 5 Heatseeker cam, it revved and pulled hard to 9500rpm. Love big bore short stroker combos

How about a cleaveland at 9600RPM??