FTO AUSTRALIA

so would you still need all that stuff if you just use the bottom end and the 6A12 top end?
I know that you will have to match the heads to the bore of the bottom end, gasket kits and all that.

So would you still need the 6A13 loom or can you just change out the plugs on the 6A12 loom to fit the 6A13?

totally with ben here

I pulled out mzmads old motor and box out at robbies place including everything required for manual conversion and took bugger all time at all. infact to just rip out motor and box would of taken me a whopping 2.5 work and thats on the driveway . Granted to put it in will take slightly longer but easily have one out and one in in a day NO PROB

go somewhere else or do it yourself, the shop you have it at are just wasting your time

aza013 wrote:so would you still need all that stuff if you just use the bottom end and the 6A12 top end?
I know that you will have to match the heads to the bore of the bottom end, gasket kits and all that.

So would you still need the 6A13 loom or can you just change out the plugs on the 6A12 loom to fit the 6A13?

The 6A13 top end is more similar to the 6A12 non mivec. So if you were to frankenstien it, you'd need to redo the timing assembly to 6A12 mivec equivalent. Apart from that, just using the 6A13 bottom end would be quite simple if you had a mivec car to start with (which Jays isn't.)

Other things to look out for, different coil packs used on the 6A13, no oil solenoids used on the 6A13 & a very different intake manifold is used on the 6A13. Its much bigger than either 6A12, but would be good to make use of

Splicing looms together is always gonna be a c**t. All Mitsubishi vehicles of this vintage have real mish-mash electrical system by todays standards. You've got some digital signals, some analouge, you've also got a hybrid MUT II ECU signal which is standard to only mid 90's Mitsi's. I'd avoid splicing looms if possible.

vipfto wrote:totally with ben here

I pulled out mzmads old motor and box out at robbies place including everything required for manual conversion and took bugger all time at all. infact to just rip out motor and box would of taken me a whopping 2.5 work and thats on the driveway . Granted to put it in will take slightly longer but easily have one out and one in in a day NO PROB

go somewhere else or do it yourself, the shop you have it at are just wasting your time

crazy fkr... thats hardcore... took me 2 weeks on and off

how did it take that long?
pretty easy just remove manifold, injector wiring battery all other wiring etc
remove aircon comp and powersteer pump, take off driveshafts, why pipe and crossmember then box and motor mounts and bang ready to drop

of course longer to put back but fairly easy just reverse


In saying that its not the first motor of had out by a longshot FTO or other car

Bennoz wrote:Ok, so maybe $300 & a couple of cases of p*ss

Yeah that sounds about right.

Bennoz wrote: Find the right motor & I'll put it in for you for $300! I'll even do timing belt & water pump if you supply the parts.

if i end up finding one i'll take you up on that offer lol

update:

found parts and guess where from.....

a nissan maxima gt20 v6 LOL. from the older models but these parts are brand new

the machining shop sent it out the mechs and they put it in and it runs better then before. although they have to put everything back into the engine bay i may have the carback late this week. AWESOME.