FTO AUSTRALIA

Shane001 wrote:

vipfto wrote:

Valandis91 wrote:is it DIY'able?

all this little things need fixing up and have no $ to spend

yip fairly simple and just need a wheel alignment after

Or get ureself a couple of chassis stands, some string, a ruler, and a spirit level and do it yourself. Will be a better job than most of the tyre joints could ever do!! f**king useless c**nts

That reminds me! Such a pain in the arse. I had excessive camber on one of my front wheels. Did the whole measuring thing and took me ages to determine was was bent. Steering knuckle was about 3mm off original spec. That accounted for more than 2 degrees camber.

Just thought i'd add these here as well!

Pics of shane's megan racing adjustable camber and toe arms fitted

Guys, the Version R rear swaybar, does it connect as the GPX does to the LCA? And what size is it?

I know the front one is 20mm but it connects to the LCA rather than the strut

Valandis91 wrote:Just thought i'd add these here as well!

Pics of shane's megan racing adjustable camber and toe arms fitted

looks cool!

They sure do I know Im probably splitting hairs here, but is there much of a weight difference?

spetz wrote:Guys, the Version R rear swaybar, does it connect as the GPX does to the LCA? And what size is it?

I know the front one is 20mm but it connects to the LCA rather than the strut

The rear version R one has the same fittment as the GPX (ie short droplink onto LCA) but its 20mm as opposed the GPX which is 18mm (and the GR which is 17mm to complicate the matter further lol)

Bennoz wrote:They sure do I know Im probably splitting hairs here, but is there much of a weight difference?

Is that aimed at me?

If so nothing noticeable!

hey guys im plannig on buying king springs and lowering my car. will king springs make the car a little bit stiff? im not planning on getting coils coz too much moolah. just thought king springs will make the ride stiff. but the thing is i dno if im able to lower it coz of the gap. by the looks of the back i cant since its already low unless i keep the back same height but change the front? i don't know how it works haha.

can someone help me out.

here are the pics:

Bennoz wrote:I know Im probably splitting hairs here, but is there much of a weight difference?

For the full set (4 arms);
Stock: 2.9kgs
Megan Racing: 3.4kgs

Has anyone used a Version R rear swaybar with a GPX front for more front end grip? Any comments on how this works?


GPX000, king springs are generally regarded as the softest out there, however the problem is if you go much lower you won't have much travel and you'll be hitting bumpstops which is really uncomfortable

i just wanted to get rid of of gap at the front. its like 4 finger spaces.. just thought king springs are the cheaper option.
but i don't know if AJ changed the actual springs. so confused with what hes changed.
i read that hes changed the front mounts which are a pricey but what do they do?
i read through this page and saw this:

SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing $49.92
SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing $68.59
SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount to chassis bushing (16mm) $17.44
Whiteline front control arm $68.59
Shocks - 4 x KYB Gas
Part numbers; Front L: 334154 (Volvo S40/V40 Front) $303.26
Front R: 334155 (Volvo S40/V40) $303.26
Rears: 341140 (KYB Lancer CC Rear) $379.92
Pillow Mounts front $432.64
Pillow mounts rear $557.44

just to clarify that he hasnt changed the springs right? will i lose out if i get king springs? like it wont benefit the ride?
sorry im just not good with cars

Yep, I didn't change the springs on GPX000. It already had Pedders springs and was low enough for me so I kept them on.

hey AJ will it be worth it change them into king springs? coz the front looks off since the gap is bigger than the rear.

ill give it a go, if not ill just put back the originals and just resell the kings lol.

gpx000 wrote:hey AJ will it be worth it change them into king springs?

I dunno. I liked it how it was. Piratical without being on stilts. I still had some scraping issues but not as many as others on here do.

AJ wrote:

gpx000 wrote:hey AJ will it be worth it change them into king springs?

I dunno. I liked it how it was. Piratical without being on stilts. I still had some scraping issues but not as many as others on here do.

I had scraping issues on mine as well when i had kings on the front, it tore holes in my wheel archers so i had to take them off. And since wheel archers cost so much it really wasn't worth it. But i did keep the rear lowerd on Kings, it still looks good


I just replaced my strut mounts and struts with KYB's and kept the standard springs but i seem to be feeling a lot more bumps in the road then i use to

spetz wrote:Guys, the Version R rear swaybar, does it connect as the GPX does to the LCA? And what size is it?

I know the front one is 20mm but it connects to the LCA rather than the strut

BUMP!

spetz wrote:

spetz wrote:Guys, the Version R rear swaybar, does it connect as the GPX does to the LCA? And what size is it?

I know the front one is 20mm but it connects to the LCA rather than the strut

BUMP!

Bennoz wrote: The rear version R one has the same fittment as the GPX (ie short droplink onto LCA) but its 20mm as opposed the GPX which is 18mm (and the GR which is 17mm to complicate the matter further lol)

Thanks Bennoz

Anyone tried that setup? GPX front swaybar and Version R rear?
Is it much of an upgrade or because they are hollow it does not make much of a difference?

I've seen sheared ones mate, they aint hollow..

Both or the Version R only?
I thought they were all hollow, or at least of a weaker metal?
I am sure an 18mm whiteline swaybar offers more resistance than an FTO 18mm?

They're all solid mate. They're made from spring steel - the very same stuff they make car springs from strangely enough.

There are different grades of spring steel they can use, coupled with the fact that Whiteline bars are usually mounted with Whiteline poly bushes as opposed to ragged out OEM rubber.