FTO AUSTRALIA

What afr's?

You'll find with the 275's if you haven't made adjustments to the fuel map it will idle high as it won't be able to get into closed loop mode properly due to pumping too much fuel into the engine. The stock ecu still thinks you have 166cc injectors. Unless you've adjusted for this with a piggy back, the ecu is pumping in a lot more fuel than it thinks it is.

ie with 210cc injectors I'm running -20% fuel at idle.

Thanks Shane, i've told the emanage that I used to have 166's and now have 275's, afr at idle when warm is looking good fluctuating between 14 and 15 but I haven't taken any fuel out other than doing the injector size difference so I might have a play there.
Main thing i'm not happy with at the moment is my coupling between the charger outlet and plenum as they are both angled so if you look side on it's like a V and can't properly get a clip on one side it's just on top of the other one so i'm hoping I can get narrower clips or something altogether different.

Yeah if you're getting 14-15 afr and the idle is smooth than I'd say that's not your problem then.

Interestingly in the end I've decided not to use the injector resize feature of my eManage Ultimate. Instead I've done a very rough resize manually, this seems to have worked better with the auto tuning feature using my wideband sensor for the working rev range. But other than idle I'm almost never below 4000rpm, so I've just set idle to -20 and the rest of the map up to 4000rpm to -15, seems close enough

I read somewhere that the auto injector resizing isn't that good on the blue so I may see about taking a bit of fuel out anyway.
Just picked up some narrower jubilee clips so also hoping that will fix my issue.
Here's a link to a better quality video (same one though)
http://s248.beta.photobucket.com/user/R ... 1.mp4.html

I found some narrower (9mm band width) by 80mm diameter hose clips at Autopro so fitted them to get rid of the overlapping clips between my charger and plenum and the revs have dropped again - only to just below 1500 though.
There is some like rushing air noise around where my bypass valve is so i'm going to remove it and use sealant then refit - worth a try I reckon.

At least you're slowly reducing them
Better than them going up :p

Idle now less than 1500rpm on cold startup, and after a little warm up:

(the engine management light is due to one bad wire on TPS connector where I used crimps not solder and I will fix later)

Nice

Is it still auto and good work mate

Yes mate still auto but 5 speed, last one I had was a 4 speed.
Still running the aircon too.

That's good to have the 5speed at least any future plans to convert it to manual

ZFL45H1 wrote:That's good to have the 5speed at least any future plans to convert it to manual

No not really, i love the auto's although if I can't eventually get low 13's at the drags I might, best I did in the supercharged 4speed was 14.06 but there was definately a 13 in it. I was thinking about a conversion with the last one so don't know why I went auto lol at myself.
I'm liking the 5 speed a lot more than the 4, need to fit an additional oil cooler to the AT box at some stage - did it on the last one and the box lasted ages (300000km's and was still going when I sold up).

Had a first drive earlier - nothing blew up and I heard the supercharger whine for the first time.
It's not that quick yet and I don't know what boost it's at (I did some logging on the emanage but haven't checked yet), throttle will only open 70% due to my crappy throttle cable extension and the charger is catching on the bonnet so i've a few things to sort out.
Happy that nothing broke though.

Great work. How much timing did you retard on base tune?

I think i'm on the super safe map (I have a few maps from last time) so i'm retarded by a couple of degrees pretty much across the board I think, I did this last time before taking it to a tuner who added advance in but I don't have any knock equipment to set this up myself.
EDIT: not that safe, there are a couple of points with advance in.

My not so safe map has a couple of degrees advance in a few points, I may run with this but drop the advance by 1 (if it's a 2 drop it to 1, if it's a 1 drop to 0 etc) and then take it to RPW to finish off.
I have 98 fuel in and will be sticking to that from now on.
I reckon i'm on really low boost at the moment, maybe 3-4psi so I need to get the smaller charger pulley ordered to whack the boost up.

I was also told by the tuner that due to how these superchargers deliver boost compared to a turbo you can get away with more (it's more gradual).

Just going through the emanage logs:
had max throttle opening of 68% (need to improve throttle cable extension)
Absolute pressure 164KPA (what's the conversion to PSI? - I tried one tool and it came back about 24psi which can't be right)
max injector duty cycle 40%

Looks like I wasn't logging the greddy map sensor voltage and I have a voltage to psi chart for that so just enabled that for the next logging session, need to stop the charger catching on the bonnet first though before I take her out again.
I might make some ally spacers for the engine mounts tomorrow to drop the engine 5mm, i've already raised the bonnet brackets with a couple of heavy duty washers and don't want to mess with that anymore, next step might be to press a hump in the bonnet somehow - I have a guy across the road who is a sheet metal worker by trade and he owns an FTO too.

Here's the latest pic

Needed intake pipe and filter as I didn't fancy driving it without one, it's a super-cheap $25 filter from supercheap auto - will do until I get a HKS mushroom.
I'm thinking about filling in the top section of the plenum with more JB weld stuff or something else to make it all smooth and then spraying that part (maybe white enamel) and putting some kind of blue lettering on (not sure yet) and then polishing up the intake runners.

Rob Furniss wrote:Absolute pressure 164KPA (what's the conversion to PSI? - I tried one tool and it came back about 24psi which can't be right)

Bar x 100 = kPa
kPa / 7 = psi

164kPa / 7 = 23.43psi
164kPa / 100 = 1.64Bar

Well u know it can hold a bit then wow

I think I need to then take off astmospheric pressure of 1.64 bar * 14.7 to convert to psi then - 14.7 (atmos) = 9.4psi?
This can't be right as it's too high and doesn't feel like that much boost - I was expecting 4psi as i'm still on the stock pulley, I think I need to disregard the absolute pressure kpa value and go off the greddy voltage (I have a table of values to convert voltage to psi). I will do that on the next drive and report back.