FTO AUSTRALIA

I got a bit of a negative front camber from a bit of a bingle. Nothing visually bent, but the shock piston was a tad bent, 2-4 millimetres from base of piston to top. Changed that and it did nothing.

Saw my tie rod and it looks slightly bent to me as well. If you put a staight edge on the back on the ball joint housing should the part where the steering arm go into be flush with the straight edge? It's slightly bent.

zuihoujueding wrote:

Dan25 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:Here's the EVO arm:

My facelift GPX already has these arms on it. My car was stock as a rock when I bought it, and they certainly don't look anywhere near new so I'd say it's pretty much guaranteed they've been on there since manufacture.

+1 on that.

Would appear you are quite right gents, it is a facelift thing.

Checked both Kaz's 94 GPX & my car, both the povo versions

On the plus side, that means I get to go rip apart some busted facelift FTO's at SSS tomorrow

Also did some more work on the ass end of my car today guys.

Im replacing all the commonly worn bushes in the rear.

Starting with both bushes on the rear control arms. The key bush shown here, is the one that connects the control arm to the trailing arm.
Its a press fit, but I managed to bash it out with an equivalent size socket & lump hammer. Part number is 4113A062




Then moving onto the another bush, which is connected by a 'dog bone' arm. This bush is identical to the one mentioned above (MR197915)
Where this bush connects to the car is where the rear toe adjustment is done an FTO. Again, a bash out or press arrangment. Or some, prefer to buy the whole arm.




Then onto, the big one, the rear trailing arm bush. As you can see, mine is quite rooted. I've gone for an offset Nolathane replacement. I say that, as you can see how the central hole of the new bush is offset to one side. This is to push the whole assembly further back, ie giving a marginally longer wheelbase.
Always (as you can see) grease the centre section of the bush, before fitting the crush tube in. This crush tube actually acts as a pivot point in the bush so as the trailing arm moves up & down, it pivots.

This one really does need a press to get out, will update again tomorrow after visiting the workshop

yip i, doing mine tommorrow but lucky I have a press

Front Lower brace also arrived this morning

Now I knew Protons used a bunch of Mitsi parts, but apparently, half the front end of a Proton is an FTO!
This brace not only fits an FTO, but a Proton Satria, Wira, Waja (US sedan) and of course, a Volvo S40 (muuck like our shared KYB shocks!)

Ultra Racing Part number is LA4-165. Picked it up ona Ebay for $144 US.

cool.. i have the whole set of your braces, waiting to be installed.

Those things sit a lot lower on the car than the sump and exhaust i hear thats why ive been putting off getting one, although they look like they stiffen up the front end quite a bit...

you might be right.
maybe more suitable catered for track cars than street cars.

aza013 wrote:some more pics of them, they are available in Titanium and blue.

I once had a look at a Rear lower control arm (one of these) from a CH lancer because they have the end bit from where the strut bolts in to where the wheel hub connects on, that bends up. This is so that the direction the arm is pointing towards the center of the car can be closer to the center of gravity because on that lancer version compared to the last it has a biiig ass and it sits down lower. Hehe.

But A) because there isnt much weight over the rear and you do need some body roll to even out the body roll from the front im guessin its not great and, B) it was too short to actually fit it and test it out... but onthe front a roll center adjuster would work wonders i reckon.

Unfortonatly the only ones for the front i've seen that fit an fto are from hardrace: http://hardrace.com/products.asp?strCla ... rClass3=30, and since they didnt respond to my email im guessing they only deal with companies or large worth while purchasees Even though i asked how many would be worthwhile in the email. So it may only be companies... or "companies". Anyone know where else to get these?

Are FTO front tie rods same as any other Mitsubishi model?? Does a certain car parts store have a listing for an FTO??

pretty sure they are identical to lancer and HJ galant mate

I ended up getting 1994 Lancer tie rod. Cost 17 bucks and is exactly the same.

Bennoz wrote: Then onto, the big one, the rear trailing arm bush. As you can see, mine is quite rooted. I've gone for an offset Nolathane replacement. I say that, as you can see how the central hole of the new bush is offset to one side. This is to push the whole assembly further back, ie giving a marginally longer wheelbase.
Always (as you can see) grease the centre section of the bush, before fitting the crush tube in. This crush tube actually acts as a pivot point in the bush so as the trailing arm moves up & down, it pivots.

This one really does need a press to get out, will update again tomorrow after visiting the workshop

Hey Ben. As you pointed out in another thread, the part I had been told was making a noise at the rear of my car is the short dogbone.
If I'm getting it replaced is it worthwhile replacing the rear trailing arm bush too, or is it a fair bit more work to get that out?
Is this the part here, and where did you get it from?
Offset one - http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=46241
And non-offset one - http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... b0s10p4248
What is the reason/advantage in getting an offset one?...is there any reason why you wouldn't?

My mechanic almost killed me after I got him to change front swaybar mounts and droplinks so I don't want him to actually do it this time.

Yeah, chances are, if the dog bone bushes are shot, then the trailing arm bush will have gone soft.

Pulling the rear trailing arms out isn't that big a job (no where near as big a pain in the ass as front swaybar bushes.)
Having said that, pressing them out was a different story. I loaded them up in the press (and it aint easy juggling the
whole arm with disc rotor still on it around in the press) and it took an alighty wack of pressure before they finally cracked
and started pressing out. Frightened the sh*t out of me (literally) when it let go.

I got the offset Nolethane ones from my local Auto One. They ordered them in for me.

How much were they? I need to do mine aswell..

And what is the point in going offset for? What does it achieve and are there any reasons why you wouldn't?

evoman wrote:And what is the point in going offset for? What does it achieve and are there any reasons why you wouldn't?

Can you fill me on the benefit of getting an offset trailing arm bush Bennoz?
Also, can you confirm if this is the same part number of the one you got? http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=46241
It looks the same but they refer to it as the front trailing arm so I'm not sure.

The whole point of offset bushes in this instance is to increase the wheelbase & push the rear wheels back towards the rear of the car more. Decreasing weight overhang over the rear wheels. Much like on a Mini for example, the closer each wheel is the ther corner of the car, with less weight directly above it, the better the handling.

Yep, same part no

Bennoz wrote:The whole point of offset bushes in this instance is to increase the wheelbase & push the rear wheels back towards the rear of the car more. Decreasing weight overhang over the rear wheels. Much like on a Mini for example, the closer each wheel is the ther corner of the car, with less weight directly above it, the better the handling.

Yep, same part no

i can't take you serious with that DP, ben.