FTO AUSTRALIA

Heat always be your enemy! Basically the harder your engine works the more heat energy will be created. That's why we have Engine Oil Coolers and Transmission Oil Coolers. If you have these items installed then you'll potentially give your engine a better life.

I think you need to add a bit more to your poll in saying that:

Do you think it's GOOD to redline if you want more power?

OR

Do you think it's BAD to redline if you want your engine to last?

You can imagine though that even if the MIVEC engine was built to rev comfortably at 8000rpm or more the pistons and conrods will still suffer if you were constantly on full throttle. I've read somewhere that one lap on a track is something equivalent to like 300km of normal driving!

Liquidity wrote:load, equals stress. Not rpm.

so reving your car doesn't cause stress? both are factors i.e. what I wrote.

High rev engine with high compression ratio are design to rev hard. For those who have got the MIVEC model, what’s the point of getting a car that can rev to 8200rpm, but you stop at 5000? The Mivec don't even kick in. Mind as well get a GR. (no offence to those who own a GR)

And if you think that’s saving your engine, then I have to say its not always the case. Is like asking a person that only ever sit on his ass and suddenly ask him to do a few burst of short sprint on a track with not much knowledge on how to run. Yes he might still have all the right equipments like running shoes and tracksuit. But that won't change the fact that in those short bust of sprint, he will worn his body faster then those who had been conditioned and trained for the purpose. Worst he could injure himself due to lack of experience.

Apply that theory to an engine and you get the same result. Car that design to rev out, need to be rev hard every now and then to keep it running properly in all occasion.

i heard a professional racing car driver say once that when he switched from driving a honda to driving a porsche he couldnt rev the nuts off it anymore or thrash it around as equally. not to sure on the reason but it must have caused some problems, or if there were no problems then the power band of the porsche was in a completly different spot and it was pointless. all i know is the honda has molebednum pistons which reduce friction a lot in the cylinder walls.

Heat always be your enemy! Basically the harder your engine works the more heat energy will be created.

heat comes from more friction technically...sooo uh you'd be wearing something out faster than normal... piston rings? everything connected to the belt/pulleys? *shrug* benoz or someone will know this

For those who have got the MIVEC model, what’s the point of getting a car that can rev to 8200rpm, but you stop at 5000? The Mivec don't even kick in.

mivecs for racing, so that you get a bit more power/speed on the straight and also so you dont have to change gear as much and waste a few tenths. at barbagello i use 3rd around the whole track basically, and 2nd for the hairpin on the short-course version.

Give me a car that was redlined every day of the week but properly maintained over a car that has never seen over 6000rpm but poorly maintained.

Simple fact is that the engine was built to occassionaly see redline and chances are that you will either....

a) write off or crash your car
b) sell your car
c) destroy the engine because of some other reason

....before you actually destroy it from redlining it. (assuming you aren't being retarded and redlining it from cold)

I just came back from redlining my car from 1-3rd gear on 4psi. I've often redlined it in the past 3.5 years i've owned it and the engine seems to be working better today than the day i bought it. I know people who dont have a clue about their car and get in it first thing on a morning and redline through all the gears right away through the whole day and have the same car for years without any problem. They're just lucky I guess but point is you could do a lot worse to your car.

Care your car and it will thank you for it..

Hmm..

well I service my car every 5000kms and change fuel filter every 15,000 kms.
I keep it running 10 minutes every morning before I drive it, even if I'm out I just start the car, have a smoke then drive off.. and the retard waiting on the road with his blinker on waiting for me to leave can keep waiting.
and I don't thrash it till after another 10 minutes of driving just to be sure.

I always thought redlining was bad.. but guess it doesnt matter as long as u look after it by the looks of it.

altho i dont see the point of doing it since your already past the peak power

I thrash the absolute pants of my FTO engined Mirage rallycar.
The engine is largely stock other than light flywheel, extractors, throttle body and running avgas with a well tuned Link G2. It runs as much ignition advance as will make power (lots)
I shift at 8,000 to 8,200rpm day in day out. Yes I use good synthetic oil and change it often.
If it blows, which it hasn't after a years use, I'll just get another import engine for bugger all $$$ It doesn't even push anything up the crankcase breather yet, I'm very impressed at that.
The 6A12twin turbo motor uses a lot of the same internals and there are quite a few over here making close to 400hp, so the rods are up to it.

Sublime19, you're the sort of guy I like to buy a car off cause you are really babying it.

Here's a video of a short stage reving the nuts off it. 56K unfriendly.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... =V6+Mirage

nice driving mate.. that looks like a lot of fun

i was told by someone that goes to the track regularly in a dc2r that when the torque curve starts to dip is not the best time to change... because when you change to a higher gear you drop about 2000rpm... and you'll drop your torque quite abit... lets say from 200nm to 170nm and it'll climb again... but when you take it to the redline on the rev counter the torque will start to fall aswell to say 180nm but after you change, the torque will be at a higher amount than when you changed... so after the gear change it will be at like 200nm again...

anyway.... back on topic...
there is no point idling your car for 10minutes before leaving the house just a waste of petrol & time its not as effective as warming it up for 30seconds to get the 10-30W oil around the engine and lubricate it and then everything should be fine if you shift at 3000rpm for the next 10minutes... if you really want to baby your car dont measure it with 10minutes... get an oil tempreture gauge and when the oil is warm then you can give it some

ive owned my car for 3 years and for 2 years it was daily driven and saw 8000rpm at least 2 or 3 times a day and theres no problem with the car

besides... the price of an engine costs like $1500... if you wear it out after 200,000kms.. it was worth the $1500 worth of fun anyway... it works out to be 0.0075c a km... less than 1c a km... you pay more with increasing petrol prices lol the only reason stopping me and my car seeing 8000rpm would be petrol prices or police

lol jono...nice work on the costs...like your style...

definately not 56k friendly (went over my dl limit).
lol

but good driving,

Yep I agree with Jonowong, you've gotta rev the nuts off them to keep in the power when you shift gear. The ratios are quite widely spaced, and I've got a 5.0:1 final drive!

Crikey they only start properly on the Mivec at 6,000ish so if you only go to 7,000 you're missing out on half the fun.....

power drops off for me at 7.5 (not the torque curve), if you shift then i think it jsut drops out of mivec range (to a bit over 5k) but the mivec change over point is meant to be smooth anyway so i dont think theres major torque loss, in my car i notice most the torque picks up at around 4k....that doesnt sound right..., but im sure its not faster changing at the rev limiter

atomrally: wheres the camera mounted in your car...? going to do the same thing to my car for track days so i can review the tape after

Just made a "V" bracket that I attach to the main hoop of the rollcage with hose clips.
The camera sits in the bottom of the "V".
We were surprized how clear the picture turned out, lucky I guess.

ahhh alright, i dont have one of them (rollcage...)

it looks like colin mcrae the way you have it set up

When you say "good synthetic oil", I use Redline (as recommended by KJ) and i love it. sure it's like double the price of that magnatec bullshit but i dont mind spend $40 extra for the good stuff.

is that what u mean by "good synthetic oil"?

sublime19 wrote:When you say "good synthetic oil", I use Redline (as recommended by KJ) and i love it. sure it's like double the price of that magnatec bullshit but i dont mind spend $40 extra for the good stuff.

is that what u mean by "good synthetic oil"?

Redline is pretty much the best money can buy off the shelf...lasts longer..better properites...don't get me started but in reality a Motul 300V is really good too, M1 is a good product also all of these are fine...

the weight of the oil is quite important also. IMO a high reving engine needs a 30..the redline cSt at Op temp is a bit better than the 40/50 weight and hence can move quickly as required...some studies have shown HP improvement, however minimal, with the lower weights. Then again the op. (100 degree) cSt ratings for a 30 and 40 are quite similar - like 10 and 16 for example...where the cold start cSt (40) is like 70 and 140 for example.

Overall make sure u do use a "good synthetic oil" in the 10W30/40 range for your FTO.

What do I mean by good synthetic oil?

Oil opinions are like belly buttons, everyones got one and theirs is the best.
Khunjeng is onto the right ideas.

Just don't buy anything on sale for $20!!!

So I'm not touching the oil debate, there are far more learned people than me with real chemical knowledge of what works well.
Think there is a good link on here somewhere?

Atomrally wrote:
So I'm not touching the oil debate, there are far more learned people than me with real chemical knowledge of what works well.
Think there is a good link on here somewhere?

Yes! there definately is and some very good information from KJ, he really knows his oils and I'm very happy using Redline over magnatec

http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=8338

Oh don't ever mention those crappy Magnatec, I put them in both N/A and turbo cars and i end up losing power across the whole rev range.