FTO AUSTRALIA

generally on a V6 motor, it is very difficult to get a sequential turbo setup to work efficently.

one reason been, is the pressure differential between the heads become imblanced.

a smaller turbo creates a lot of back pressure between the turbo and head, while at the same rpm a larger turbo will have less pressure between itself and the head.

that situation creates all sorts of longevity problems.

you will notice most sequential turbo setups are rather complicated, with box turbos generally feeding from all cylinders and using a complicated set of valves to control which turbo is receiving the most exhaust gas.

imagine the pipe work on a V6.

btw, 6G72, GTO/3000GT has two TD04 9B's as standard, which is smaller than the 4G93s TD04 13G

*nods* the exhaust plumbing for a turbo V config engine is a nightmare as it is anyways.

I would have expected for sequential setup, one turbo is "always on" and the second one is brought in to bring larger volume of air into the system, thus it's more of an issue of timing for the opening both the compression and exhaust side of the second turbo.

I didn't know about the pressure differential between the two different sizes of turbos though at the same RPM, just trying to work that one out in my head =)

I would have expected the twin turbos of the 6G72 to be smaller than the single of the 4G93's. Especially with the torque curve of the former engine =)

edited, got my engine code wrong sorry was surposed to be 4G93 duh! lol

also, i was trying to say that TD04 9B on its own is smaller than the TD04 13G on it own... just came out a bit wrong.

*laughs* all good =) edited my followup.

Cool =) I'm thinking unless you sink a lot of time and effort (not to mention money) into a turbo conversion, it's not worth it, I'm thinking at least strengthing the engine as well as the drive line components, not to mention increasing braking capacity, upgrading suspension (from stock that is). I don't know if fueling components need to be upgraded, but I'd probably do that just get a safety margin if it gets too close.

Also, deciding whether I want better tractibility or go for a more efficient turbo for high rpm usage and getting it wrong would be annoying. I'd probably go for efficiency as I've seen that it doesn't take much more to get the wheels to spin =P

Mind you the same could be said for new camshafts, but I guess the chances of things breaking is far less than adding a turbo, most custom systems aren't engineered and tested to the same level as car itself was =) and you're not really increasing stress levels of the engine to the same extent as a turbo would.

Eh, I'm just rambling with my personal thoughts now, I think I should stop =)

the FTO's crank and rods are almost identical to the 6A12TT the only difference i know of is the higher compression pistons.

so technically, the FTO internals are good for 400hp. i was making a VERY lazy 300hp at the flywheel on my 6A12.

yup, you want atleast 275-390cc injectors and use a twin entry fuel rail instead of the stock single.

single turbo in my opinion is the best option, then for everyday use, a Big 16G is perfect.

still recon turbo'ing an FTO would be straight forward.

Simple fact is that there is a lot more aftermarket parts for the Civic and be easily modded with a turbo.

Everything on the FTO is pretty much custom, including the intake manifold, unless you use the 4G63. Only thing is that once again you're looking at custom engine mounts. $$$$$

Everybody that wants to do up civics buys EK9s cos the engine bay is so big..
nothing wrong with being beaten by a civic, unless its stock!

What I don't understand is, you wanna get an exhaust just for the sound, and now you have problems with performance

Plus, don't take offense to me saying this, but if you're after speed only, then the FTO isn't for you. Sure I wanna go fast, but I wouldn't twin turbo my FTO, it would kill the life expectancy of the car.

no matter what car you have, there will always be somebody out there faster than you, as long you like the car and customise it to suit your driving style, that's all that matters really in the end

tj2709 wrote:i asked about the evo conversion too, it will be like evo 3, 4. but the engine alone cost u $4-5000 ($6-7000 for evo 5 or 6), to convert it to 4wd or stay FW, conversion cost, around $3-5000, at the end will surely cost u pretty much the same, the only different is that u dont need to worry about engine blown.

so just to confim, it would cost around $12,000 to get a 4wd drivetrain and an evo 6 engine into my fto? That works out at approximately £4800? would this be fully working with all parts and labour required?

You guys might find this interestin. 6a12TT Mivec.
http://www.mivec.co.nz/forums/viewtopic ... hlight=fto

tj2709 wrote:i asked about the evo conversion too, it will be like evo 3, 4. but the engine alone cost u $4-5000 ($6-7000 for evo 5 or 6), to convert it to 4wd or stay FW, conversion cost, around $3-5000, at the end will surely cost u pretty much the same, the only different is that u dont need to worry about engine blown.

so it would cost $6-7000 for just the engine? A further $3-5000 to fit the engine AND convert to 4WD? to do a 4WD conversion i would think it would cost way more than that

ruffryders_sohaib wrote:
so it would cost $6-7000 for just the engine? A further $3-5000 to fit the engine AND convert to 4WD? to do a 4WD conversion i would think it would cost way more than that

You're looking for answers we can't really give you. Costs will vary depending on the workshop, the exact nature of modifications. Besides, you can't just 'bring your car over' without the required import approvals and documentation.

Better off asking on FTOOC or another forum.