FTO AUSTRALIA

Hey don't get me wrong but I can't wait to get this thing finished too! Whoever does it will hopefully be careful so they can use the original roof and put the appropriate seals on it.

Haha worst case scenario is that I have to check the weather before I go anywhere in the car. I will get this done as quickly as possible so you guys can have a look but just bear in mind I got to take out everything in the engine bay as well as inside the car.......on my own!

Convertible is looking pretty good at the moment. The rust spots in my roof are back .... And only 2 months after getting it repaired

Hey DStocks have you considered fabricating a carbon fibre roof? To my understanding you can cut the roof without having to strengthen the chassis as long as you don't cut the supports above the door. Or you can just get a sunroof I suppose..........that would look really good.

Do you know what's causing the rust spots? Is it the paint or just a lack of rust-proofing agent?

Already have a sunroof. Actually have access to another roof, but it doesnt have a sunroof and the roof shape is different. The sunroof version doesnt have the valley down the middle that a non sunroof FTO has.

Im led to believe the problem is caused by the glue used in the 94/95 FTO's to glue in the roof lining. It was bodgy and collects moisture. Mitsubishi changed the glue used after this persiod so im told. The moisture over time causes the rust.

At the very least im going to have to get some of my roof cut out and replaced. At the moment, the question is how much!!! I guess ill get some idea of this when I take the lining out.

dstocks wrote:Im led to believe the problem is caused by the glue used in the 94/95 FTO's to glue in the roof lining. It was bodgy and collects moisture. Mitsubishi changed the glue used after this persiod so im told. The moisture over time causes the rust.

Yep, and it actually affected the Mirage/Lancer family and some Galants as well. In fact, it seems to be much worse in the Lancers. Also darker cars were more prone to it, as heat made the glue sweat and release more moisture.

That sucks........to be honest I don't much about glue but have ever considered polyurethane filler? It does wonders sticking stuff if you can get it even enough.

Actually does anyone know how the workshops keep engines they sell from seizing up before they get to the customers? I'm currently removing my engine to keep as a spare for my daily driver to be able to modify my chassis and make room for a 6A13TT. I don't want to have to crack that engine open as its only done about 80000km and is in good nick. The thing is it's gonna sit in my shed for god knows how long until the time my daily driver engine goes to heaven.

Hi nacho,
The AWD is a great option, and if I had the time and money I would go that way. There is nothing scarier than the torque steer of the FWD on the highway with cars in both lanes either side of you, when you put your foot down. Rick from Joe & ricks ( gold coast where most of us in Qld take our babies for services.) suggested the AWD option after driving mine. Surprisingly he suggested another car than the VR4 which I thought would be the logical choice. I think it was the lancer he was suggesting. Give him a call on his reasons why. All the best for the project, but some advice your budget and time for the project- double both.
Jeff

Thanks Jeff do you have a contact number handy?

Do you mean the drivetrain from the lancer? or lancer evo? I've heard the evo v mates up quite nicely with the car but not necessarily to the 6a13.

Did you end up getting your engine and gearbox back?

What about the local Lancer GSR's, Would the 4wd fit into the FTO's.

Not sure actually. I will definitely look into it.

It looks like my main priority at the moment is the Targa roof conversion to see if it can be done. Talking to accident repair places and engineers at the moment. I suppose I should contact vicroads too to see what they've got to say about it.

There was a rag top lancer done in melbourne a fair while back, form the melbourne motor show. I will try and find that catalogue. I have it around some where. See if they can help you.

Thanks kay that would be really helpful. I don't really want to go the full convertible look. I just want a really BIG sunroof...........hehehe

dstocks wrote:Convertible is looking pretty good at the moment. The rust spots in my roof are back .... And only 2 months after getting it repaired

hey dude i gotsame problem. but ive had mine fixed for the last 3months been ok to me hasnt re apeared. ive just dug out the old rusty glue from underneath the strut tops. cleaned it up a bit. added a shitload of good quality rust proofing. and a panel beater mate has done the rest. he has done a led swipe across the struts of the car on the outside. so no rust bubbles will be poppn out anymore.
so all i goto do now is get it painted. had primer on it just to see if it comes up again just in case but seems to be workn fine.

Yep, pulled the lining out and removed the rust now too. Car will go back under the knife early next year. Didnt look as bad under there as I thought it would. Just have to wait and see!

Rust scares me a lot, I'm planning to put one of those electronic rust control thingys on, Does anyone know where to get one.

But that wont save you from whats already there!!!

BigPitty1, youre getting a 95 model arent you????. If so, do yourself a favour and remove the glue. The guide I wrote for this is here:

http://www.completefto.com.au/FTO_showcontent.asp?aid=341

Anyway just an update on the progress.

The stripping of the interior is quite easy seats, carpets etc. removal is all straight forward. Struggling for time to get the tranny and engine out.

The panel beater won't be able to do any work until the new year. I will try and perform as many physics calculations in regards to stress and strain of the chassis and figure out what the best metal to use for the reinforcement. Weight vs strength vs heat resistance etc. Any help would be much appreciated.

More to come.........

Yeah I'm planning to remove that glue as soon as possible when I get my car, when you have removed the glue do you put anything in that space to replace the glue or just leave it.

I havent. Doesnt seem to make a difference - doesnt rattle or anything. If you decide to replace it though, look into finding something that does not hold moisture!! (but then, I guess thats obvious)

Ok it's now a toss up between titanium alloy or a strong carbon composite material to reinforce the chassis. I'm not 100% sure anymore on doing the targa conversion on the FTO considering the car will be raced and it may severely affect the handling if I'm not careful. Any thoughts on how drop tops handle and how they're actually constructed?