FTO AUSTRALIA

Taz wrote:punched in the RDA number and it comes up as a nissan rotor, originally with 6 stud pattern

Huh, how bizarre.

Think I might just call and tell them what I need if I have to.

When I have sobered up I'll give u exact part numbers.

Matt.

silverGPX wrote:When I have sobered up I'll give u exact part numbers.

Matt.

Cheers.

they are same as evo 1-3 magna 276 mm ones ETC and warping can be caused by few things overheating or just being too soft on them all the time. suggest new rotors/pads and bleed brakes then it should be better than ever. Dont need to go slotted unless your pushing lots and a bit of heavy braking once in awhile does wonders for preventing them to be needed to be machine down the track

vipfto wrote:they are same as evo 1-3 magna 276 mm ones ETC and warping can be caused by few things overheating or just being too soft on them all the time. suggest new rotors/pads and bleed brakes then it should be better than ever. Dont need to go slotted unless your pushing lots and a bit of heavy braking once in awhile does wonders for preventing them to be needed to be machine down the track

Heavy braking is good for the rotors?

+1

Don't get them machined, they will just warp again.

Replace with a new set of rotors and pads.

PHIL069 wrote:+1

Don't get them machined, they will just warp again.

Replace with a new set of rotors and pads.

+2

Bennoz wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:+1

Don't get them machined, they will just warp again.

Replace with a new set of rotors and pads.

+2

I think FTOAu should pool and get me some for my birthday (yesterday).

Happy Birthday......Easter boy

Happy birthday

We wish you a merry birthday!
Wait, wrong song...

Technikhaus wrote:We wish you a merry birthday!
Wait, wrong song...

Points for trying.

Question: should I replace the rear rotors at the same time?

Not necessarily, they dont do as much work as the fronts.

Bennoz wrote:Not necessarily, they dont do as much work as the fronts.

Cool. In the invoice Matt gave me from GSL/Brakes direct he had HEL brake lines. Is it worthwhile doing those at the same time as the rotors?

No. Braided lines arent necessary and by the sounds of your application wont need them. They are not hard by any standard to change down the road if you do decide to swap anyway.

Taz wrote:No. Braided lines arent necessary and by the sounds of your application wont need them. They are not hard by any standard to change down the road if you do decide to swap anyway.

Even if I flog it through the hills at least once a week?

Duly noted though. Should fix my oils before worrying about it most likely.

I have put braided lines on my motorbike and the brakes felt so good. Braided lines are always a good upgrade, also considering our cars are 10+ years old I would definitely recommend braided lines if you have the funds.

You don't need to do the lines along with the rotors and pads but changing the fluid is recommended both the times.

+1 on getting new rotors than machining them. Also, as Bennoz said, if your rear rotors are not wrapped or worn out, you will be fine installing just the front set.

Edit: Oh and I wouldn't rely only on brakes coming down a hill. If it's a long way down and has tons of sharp twisties, excessive braking will heat up and boil your brake fluid and make your brakes ineffective. Down shifting and engine braking is your friend to help you control the speed.

Try 17+ years.

Might consider if I have money to spare.

bjk wrote:Try 17+ years.

Might consider if I have money to spare.

Make sure the braided lines have the Australian Standards stamp on them, else insurance won't cover you. HEL lines have Australian standard stamps on them. I bought them online from their official Australian distributors.