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Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:18 pm
by PHIL069
Daniel2019 wrote: As far as I know, dont you just unhook the hose, pump the brake until its all out then put the hose back and refill? Its an effort but its doable for about 10 bucks for the fluid.
Ahhhhhh.......NO
PHIL069 wrote: Whats the best way to get all the fluid out of the lines? Bleed the brakes, you can buy bleeding kits or you can use a piece of small diameter hose, a jar and a mate, here is the basics.....
You have to keep the brake reservoir full of clean fluid during this process, don't let it go below the "MIN" mark. There is a bleed nipple on each caliper, the idea is to have a mate press down on the brake pedal as you slightly loosen the nipple, with a suitable hose pressed onto the nipple diverting the expelling old fluid into a container, you will then tighten the nipple before your mate releases the pedal, after tightening the nipple back up your mate will release the pedal then repeat over and over until the fluid comes out clean and bubble free. You need to do this on each caliper in this order RL-FR-RR-FL. when done pump up the brakes and check fluid level.
You will be yelling to your mate "Pump-Release-Pump-Release-Pump-Release.........."

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:20 pm
by Daniel2019
PHIL069 wrote:
Daniel2019 wrote: As far as I know, dont you just unhook the hose, pump the brake until its all out then put the hose back and refill? Its an effort but its doable for about 10 bucks for the fluid.
Ahhhhhh.......NO
PHIL069 wrote: Whats the best way to get all the fluid out of the lines? Bleed the brakes, you can buy bleeding kits or you can use a piece of small diameter hose, a jar and a mate, here is the basics.....
You have to keep the brake reservoir full of clean fluid during this process, don't let it go below the "MIN" mark. There is a bleed nipple on each caliper, the idea is to have a mate press down on the brake pedal as you slightly loosen the nipple, with a suitable hose pressed onto the nipple diverting the expelling old fluid into a container, you will then tighten the nipple before your mate releases the pedal, after tightening the nipple back up your mate will release the pedal then repeat over and over until the fluid comes out clean and bubble free. You need to do this on each caliper in this order RL-FR-RR-FL. when done pump up the brakes and check fluid level.
You will be yelling to your mate "Pump-Release-Pump-Release-Pump-Release.........."
There we go then :lol: and thats why we dont trust Daniel2019 with our cars! :cheers:

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:25 pm
by PHIL069
Hey Daniel.....Do you remember....http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-part ... eeding.htm

A quote from them.....
Here's how to bleed the breaks with a friend:

Step 1: Once the car is up on jacks and the wheels have been removed, take the rubber cap off each bleeder screw. Position your box-end wrench to loosen the bleeder valve, but don't do it yet. First, attach the clear tubing over the nipple of the bleeder valve and put the other end in a bottle to catch the fluid.

Step 2: Ask your friend to pump the brake pedal three times, and then hold the pedal down as far as it will go. Your friend must hold it there until you say it's time to release it.

Step 3: Once your friend is holding the brake pedal in the completely pressed down position, turn the bleeder valve 1/4 turn. This will release the brake fluid and air. Only keep the valve open a second or two before closing it off again by tightening the screw. Your friend will feel the pedal go toward the floor of the car. Once the screw is closed, ask your friend to release the brake pedal. Repeat this bleeding process until there are no air bubbles in the fluid that is in the clear, plastic tubing.

Step 4: After all the brakes have been bled, test the brake pedal for firmness. Make sure it does not feel spongy when depressed. Visually inspect all the bleeder screws for any signs of leakage.

Step 5: If everything checks out, replace the rubber caps on the bleeder screws, put your tires back on and take your vehicle for a spin. Be careful to test the brakes before heading out onto the open road. Use caution until you know your brakes are in good working order

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:27 pm
by Daniel2019
I do. And sweet, know I know how to bleed brake lines :cheers:

Not really. I'll be looking it up again when I do mine :lol:

Thank you bestie :D

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:28 pm
by shadowarrior
It is a little low, not really low/super low, but have to enter/exit driveways here on an angle. Never tried ramps, but got it on the lift couple of times.

I remember bleeding my bike brakes without the pump, took me some real long time...didn't follow your steps though, think i messed up and got tons of air in :p

Sent from my Galaxy Note via Tapatalk.

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:34 pm
by PHIL069
shadowarrior wrote:It is a little low, not really low/super low, but have to enter/exit driveways here on an angle. Never tried ramps, but got it on the lift couple of times.

I remember bleeding my bike brakes without the pump, took me some real long time...didn't follow your steps though, think i messed up and got tons of air in :p

Sent from my Galaxy Note via Tapatalk.
A trick for getting a low car on/off ramps is to put a couple of timber blocks right in front of and on the start of the ramps, as your car drives onto the blocks first it lifts the front of the car to clear the ramps. You may need to experiment with the size of timber, but once you work it out you can do it over anytime. :D

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:31 pm
by shadowarrior
PHIL069 wrote:
shadowarrior wrote:It is a little low, not really low/super low, but have to enter/exit driveways here on an angle. Never tried ramps, but got it on the lift couple of times.

I remember bleeding my bike brakes without the pump, took me some real long time...didn't follow your steps though, think i messed up and got tons of air in :p

Sent from my Galaxy Note via Tapatalk.
A trick for getting a low car on/off ramps is to put a couple of timber blocks right in front of and on the start of the ramps, as your car drives onto the blocks first it lifts the front of the car to clear the ramps. You may need to experiment with the size of timber, but once you work it out you can do it over anytime. :D
That is a good advice! thanks Phil, will give it a try... :)

Re: Split Engine Mounts + Split Rear Trailing Arm Bush Repai

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:45 pm
by Technikhaus
We used concrete step things to get one of ours up, then went out and bought a jack, and stands.
Haven't used the ramps on an FTO since :lol: