FTO AUSTRALIA

Thanks
Heaps Phil I will get my mechanic to change the sensor tomorrow and fingers crosses its it because it has to be sonething with the new recondition motor as my old motor and wiring alternator and parts were fine thank you once again ps how do I upload a pix as my profile pix ok here

No worries
Go to "User control panel", top of the web page, then go to "profile" on the left, then go "edit avatar" for pic on the left of your posts or "edit signature" for pic under your posts.

Hitting soft limiter or your car is sticking in a open loop. Def check your temperature sensors and other issues eg oxy sensor. Check your grounds too.

Phil changed the water sensor and still cutting off at 6000 rpm ! Not sure what else to do my mechanic says it must be a electrical problem so I'm guessing il be taking to the auto electrician any other ideas ?? Please

Did you change the correct sensor as there are two of them......engine coolant temperature sensor + engine coolant temperature gauge sensor? Did you check the wiring going to these sensors? Is your temp gauge in your dash working?
Where do you live...Suburb?

I have been looking into causes for this. What fuel is in your FTO......91 octane (regular unleaded) or 98 octane (premium unleaded)?
Apparently if you use 91 your knock sensor can change the ignition timing for the engine, going into conservative mode ie no MIVEC
So if your knock sensor is not working or disconnected the same can happen

How Can Engine Management Prevent Detonation?
Given all the different fuel types out there, how does the Engine ECU keep things running smoothly?
That's the job of the knock sensor. Through this, the engine ECU "listens" for any pre-ignition occurring. If detected, the spark timing is adjusted to ignite the fuel-air mixture a little earlier in the compression stage. This retarded timing prevents serious piston damage due to detonation. Unfortunately, engine performance is compromised in the process.
So what happens if the sensor malfunctions? The FTO GPX Workshop Chassis Manual documents the following fail-safe mode:
"Switches the ignition timing from ingnition timing for super petrol to ignition timing for standard petrol."
Really? Well, let's give it a try!
I disconnected the knock sensor (see right), then took the GPX out for an on-road dyno. For full details on this marvellous piece of kit, see the Article in question.
This is what the ECU did in response:
MIVEC cutover disabled.
6000rpm rev limiter enforced.
Conservative ignition timing used.

My mechanic changed the sensor you showed me in the diagram plus checked out wiring he's been a mechanic for ten years and nows what hes doing but he like me has notin left to do but spend it to a auto electrain ,I live in kings
Cross but my car is at baulkham hills I only
Run 98 octane I all so contact the person I bought the engine off and their saying it must be a electrical fault I'm at my wits end,it's booked in to go to the auto elect on Monday for tested I've spent nearly 7k on a the engine gearbox drive shafts over hauling everything as she is my baby but after all this money spent its TRUELY pissin me off

Lol $7000

The knocking sensor exactly like what it is doing where can I get
One from ? All so does that control the idle when its first turn it on when it is cold ? Because sometimes I have keep my foot on the acceralotor till its warm other wise it turns off ?

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14667

FFS

^^^This^^^
Has your mechanic done a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) on it yet?

Aussielocos wrote:The knocking sensor exactly like what it is doing where can I get
One from ? All so does that control the idle when its first turn it on when it is cold ? Because sometimes I have keep my foot on the acceralotor till its warm other wise it turns off ?

You have'nt metioned this yet
You could try changing the whole throttle body with sensors attached over from your old motor.............Thinking now the problem could be your stepper motor and/or throttle position sensor and/or dirty throttle body