FTO AUSTRALIA

spetz wrote:

Shane001 wrote:You do realise how dangerous running race pads on the street that don't work until they're warmed up is right.

So next time you're cruising down the motorway and need to emergency brake you might as well not bother. For your sake I hope you only kill yourself.

I haven't driven on race pads, but from my knowledge this is only a problem once you drive off from a cold start. Once they warm up they stay warm because there is always some brake drag (I could be wrong, but this is how my friends Verada was with unknown pads which did not work cold)

It depends on the pad. Also you need to understand that race pads are designed to work completely differently to street pads. Street pads work on friction, race pads work on adhesion. This is why it's very important to correctly bed a set of race pads. What you are actually doing is transferring a layer of the pad to the rotor.

But back to your example, somehow I don't think your pads are going to retain very much heat driving on the motorways or open roads. If you're running brake drag that is capable of keeping the pads 'warm' in all circumstances then you've got a pretty big problem.

So you're driving along the open road, haven't touched the brakes for 10/20/30mins+. Suddenly something happens in front of you and you need to emergency brake. You're toast. There is no time to get your brakes 'warm' so they work. So they don't!

Daniel2019 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:I'm using Bendix pads + DBA rotors and they stop me real good, didn't cost too much.
Didn't overheat going through Kangaroo Valley on the way to the bonfire and we had heaps of traffic in front making us brake all the way down. Didn't we Sahin

Have you ever used RDA rotors? How big is the difference between RDA and DBA slotteds?

I have always used DBA rotors and Bendix pads in all my cars, I tried-liked-stuck with.
I aren't using slotted in my FTO, I don't seem to have an overheating problem.
I used DBA slotted and drilled in my old EF Falcon wagon, which I was using as a courier vehicle, because regular rotors overheated from driving 12 hours a day, the drilled + slotted worked well for that application, although I did go through pads quicker, but that is what I had to use to have brakes available throughout the day.

Shane, are the Mintex 1155 considered race pads?

No idea, never used them. Look up the design characteristics of the pad. For example, if there designed to work at temps of say 300 to 800deg then I wouldn't be using them on the street.

Daniel2019 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:I'm using Bendix pads + DBA rotors and they stop me real good, didn't cost too much.
Didn't overheat going through Kangaroo Valley on the way to the bonfire and we had heaps of traffic in front making us brake all the way down. Didn't we Sahin

Have you ever used RDA rotors? How big is the difference between RDA and DBA slotteds?

I have RDA slotteds on my fronts at the mo, and apparently RDA and DBA are the same(correct me?), and came out of the same factory?

Anyway, purely for street, i really believe that slotted rotors are unnecessary because even when I had stock rotors, the ABS would still kick in, meaning, the tyres were still the weak link to braking... Plus you dont brake the way you would when on the track anyways...

At the moment I have RDA+EBC Greens on the front and I have no problems yet... Nothing worth mentioning anyway... HTH

Gholdwayne wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:I'm using Bendix pads + DBA rotors and they stop me real good, didn't cost too much.
Didn't overheat going through Kangaroo Valley on the way to the bonfire and we had heaps of traffic in front making us brake all the way down. Didn't we Sahin

Have you ever used RDA rotors? How big is the difference between RDA and DBA slotteds?

I have RDA's on my fronts at the mo, and apparently RDA and DBA are the same(correct me?), and came out of the same factory?

Anyway, purely for street, i really believe that slotted rotors are unnecessary because even when I had stock rotors, the abs would still kick in, meaning, the tyres were still the weak link to braking...

At the moment I have RDA+EBC Greens on the front and I have no problems yet... Nothing worth mentioning anyway... HTH

From what I know, theyre the same brand but a different product. Supposedly the DBAs are better than the RDAs. Slotted rotors are un necessary for street, however I plan on going to a track day every now and then so I may as well pay the difference and get it done right the first time. Good brakes are a necessity!

Im interested to know if DBA's are better than the RDA's... Do let us know! Since I got my RDA slotteds for about $180/pair

According to a few forums, including ozhonda http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread ... ake-Rotors DBA is much higher quality. Theyre about double the price?

Daniel2019 wrote:According to a few forums, including ozhonda http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread ... ake-Rotors DBA is much higher quality. Theyre about double the price?

Lolz, you know what, i just did just that just 5 mins ago... Looks like a lot of people have had experiences with both rotors... I guess its safe to say RDA<DBA ?

S'all good, since im probably never going to track, RDA will do... Hell, i think stock rotors would have sufficed, had i not bought the RDA's

RDA & DBA are definitely not the same. DBA are generally considered by most as better quality than RDA.

If choosing slotted rotors you want a rotor that does not slot all the way to the edge, these have a higher tendency to crack.

If you're going with no slotted's the TRW brand from Repco is very good. Race proven

Shane001 wrote:RDA & DBA are definitely not the same. DBA are generally considered by most as better quality than RDA.

If choosing slotted rotors you want a rotor that does not slot all the way to the edge, these have a higher tendency to crack.

If you're going with no slotted's the TRW brand from Repco is very good. Race proven

I'll keep that in mind!
Thank Shane!!

The find the bendix fade if you are going 150km to 60km in 50 metres!

I brake from 120k's 5th gear to turn 90 degrees left second gear, in 50 meters no probs. Daily!

PHIL069 wrote:I brake from 120k's 5th gear to turn 90 degrees left second gear, in 50 meters no probs. Daily!

Mine was a u turn. Massive fade and I just ended up going straight. I can brake from 120k to second gear easy as my second goes above 120k!

Gholdwayne wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

PHIL069 wrote:I'm using Bendix pads + DBA rotors and they stop me real good, didn't cost too much.
Didn't overheat going through Kangaroo Valley on the way to the bonfire and we had heaps of traffic in front making us brake all the way down. Didn't we Sahin

Have you ever used RDA rotors? How big is the difference between RDA and DBA slotteds?

I have RDA slotteds on my fronts at the mo, and apparently RDA and DBA are the same(correct me?), and came out of the same factory?

Anyway, purely for street, i really believe that slotted rotors are unnecessary because even when I had stock rotors, the ABS would still kick in, meaning, the tyres were still the weak link to braking... Plus you dont brake the way you would when on the track anyways...

At the moment I have RDA+EBC Greens on the front and I have no problems yet... Nothing worth mentioning anyway... HTH

I've got Good Year Eagle F1 GDS3 tyres on my car, and I stuffed one of them and got a cheapo $200 dunlop. The difference in grip is huge as I had the types side by side. If I brake hard enough I could make the Dunlop lock up while the other three Goodyears are still spinning.

Just shows you get what you pay for with tyres.

payaya wrote:The find the bendix fade if you are going 150km to 60km in 50 metres!

On the track I presume

In which case you should be running a more suitable pad for track use. I wouldn't consider the Bendix pad up to the task on the track.

The Bendix are very much not up to track work, even the $180 Bendix Ultimates... been there tried that, swapped 'em out trackside.

RED STUFF FOR THE WIN!
good on street and track .

Aza do the Red Stuff pads work when cold?

Yeah the Reds are good, that's what I'm using at the moment. They work when cold, however they have a habit of eating rotors very quickly.