FTO AUSTRALIA

get the compression checked, check the oil and see what colour it is incase u have blown a headgasket, the other cam takes over at about 6000 rpm i think so try and utalize that, make sure car will revv past 6k because when car has an electrical fault the computer wont allow it to go over 6000rpm.

my fto hits 138kmph in 2nd before i need to grab another gear, went to the drags and managed 16.1 but now its got 2 12 inch subs in the boot and a veilside bodykit. any fto should get to 100 in under 8 seconds. in an auto u can preload the transmission by holding it at about 3000rpm with ya foot on the brake then let go and floor it.

disconnect the battery for at least half an hour- this will reset the ecu... cant hurt

brent88 wrote:in an auto u can preload the transmission by holding it at about 3000rpm with ya foot on the brake then let go and floor it.

Just don't pre-load it for more than a few seconds AT MOST because you WILL cook your transmission...

yea i know i do it for as little as possible id imagine itd wear out the auto clutch plates

Check your cat converter

yeh might get the gearbox checked out i think...

also i forgot to mention that after about 10 minutes of driving, if im accelerating and i lift off the pedal and let it decelerate, the area under the car where the driver side footwell is will vibrate for abit while its decelerating. what part is under there that could be vibrating? the vibrating gets more intense the longer i drive the car. it also makes a loud noise during deceleration while its vibrating as well. the noise kind of sounds like the sound of a manual car after downshifting a gear (apologies for my shoddy descriptions lol). dont know if this is related to my slowness issue...something tells me it is though.

the gearbox is on the passanger side but the vibration could travel, when u change gears in manual mode do it take ages to click in? the exhaust and catalyc converter are sorta around there as payaya said check the cat might b clogged up

are u sure it changes gears because if not theres a fuse that controls the speed sensor asnd a the reverse lights, it went on me and car was stuck in second gear, maybe your stuck in 3rd....
so can u only get the car up to 3 thousand revs? it should easily get up2 8,000.
id imaging if there were a blockage in the exhaust motor would be deep and quite and hard to start.
if everything there seems fine its prob in the transmission obiously u woulda checked the oil right? some gearbox when their low on fluid do crazy things.
if your alternator is fked your car will have no balls. if your car is even slower at night coz your headlights drain the power. could be ya alternator onn its way out (ussualy only take 3 weeks tops to completly fk em selfs up.

brent88 wrote:the gearbox is on the passanger side but the vibration could travel, when you change gears in manual mode do it take ages to click in? the exhaust and catalyc converter are sorta around there as payaya said check the cat might b clogged up

yeh the gears in tiptronic mode still change beautifully. very responsive and quick gear changes. but yeh the car does give off a vibe like something is blocked which is preventing any power going through. quite curious as to what is under the driver side footwell. i've been meaning to go down and have a look but i keep forgetting. im guessing its something to do with the exhaust going dodgy. like i said it seems to get a lot worse after about 10 mins of driving in terms of the vibrations and the power loss.

sounds like it could be ya piston rings or somthng along them lines if its worse when motor gets hot. get a compression test done think there fairly cheap like under 5 bux ussualy engine would idle lumpy because only 1 cylinder would b down on compresion

brent88 wrote:get a compression test done think there fairly cheap like under 5 bux ussualy engine would idle lumpy because only 1 cylinder would b down on compresion

A compression test will not be under '5 bux'

To reach the rear 3 cylinders, the intake manifold has to come off.

Im putting my money on Torque Converter.

oops i meant 50*and yea i forgot about the rear cylinders

has the ECU been reset?

Any engine error codes?

would be a fantastic place to start!
http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart07.html

Bennoz wrote:

brent88 wrote:get a compression test done think there fairly cheap like under 5 bux ussualy engine would idle lumpy because only 1 cylinder would b down on compresion

A compression test will not be under '5 bux'

To reach the rear 3 cylinders, the intake manifold has to come off.

Im putting my money on Torque Converter.

Also true. Check the colour of the oil, it usually is brown/black when the torque converter is screwed. Oil should be red.

If it has driven like that for a few years I would check when its cambelt was last done. If it started around that time then you may have your belt out by a couple of teeth.

My other thought is that it might be down a cylinder.

I reckon that if it was the torque convertor it would have gone by now, not hung around for a few years thinking about it.

Bill

engine idle quite smooth actually it's not that bad when running or take off on flat roads(not super fast but acceptable) only when climb steep hills it's got no power at all ,oil color normal,

What you mean no power when it comes to hill? Mine struggles as well up a large hill as well and it has to go to 2nd to keep the speed.

payaya wrote:What you mean no power when it comes to hill? Mine struggles as well up a large hill as well and it has to go to 2nd to keep the speed.

it goes really really slow even on 2nd (around 20k/h or maybe less)

we can speculate but at the end of the day u are not going to replace a transmission because it could b a fault.
best advice anyone could give u is to take it to a mechanic and just get a diagnosis, shouldent cost more than a hundred dollars.

just bite the bullet man, I dont know how u drive it, maybe if u cant afford it 1 of the members close to u can look at it for u? but the problem has to many different parts that could b causing it and would be hard to tell without looking at it

anyway good luck

joelang86 wrote:

payaya wrote:What you mean no power when it comes to hill? Mine struggles as well up a large hill as well and it has to go to 2nd to keep the speed.

it goes really really slow even on 2nd (around 20k/h or maybe less)

Is at high rpm when going 20?

ill say it once again FLUSH the trans but most likely torque convertor