FTO AUSTRALIA

Fulltiltorgasm wrote:correct me if im wrong but i believe they addressed the problem in the facelift models ??

Every Jap built Mitsubishi from 97 onwards had the issue resolved. Ie, a non-hydroscopic (water absorbing) glue was used all models from then onwards.

rasmadu wrote:aaah i see now...hmm, don't these car manufacturers spend x amount of money on research & development lol...

Yeah but you dont exactly test a glue for 10 years... might delay the car's release a bit..

Finally got around to getting the glue out of mine today. Not quite as easy a job as I expected... that glue's like bloody rock! Coat hanger would just bend, so ended up using a sharp, thin, electricians screwdriver bent at 45deg.

Sure it's a fiddly little job, but Christ it'll be worth it when it's done.

Yep,

Definitely a good feeling when its gone. You can almost hear it systematically destroying your roof when you know its up there.

dstocks wrote:Yep,

Definitely a good feeling when its gone. You can almost hear it systematically destroying your roof when you know its up there.

i know that feeling lol

lets say one has done all the work to get most or all the rust and glue off, would it be ideal to stick little silica bags there to grab the moistures ?? just wondering...

Gholdwayne wrote:lets say one has done all the work to get most or all the rust and glue off, would it be ideal to stick little silica bags there to grab the moistures ?? just wondering...

As long as you don't mind the sound of maraccas everytime you hit a bump

Hmm well, I don't have any rust bubbles, but I do have some rust starting where there is a chip in the paintwork...

Gholdwayne wrote:lets say one has done all the work to get most or all the rust and glue off, would it be ideal to stick little silica bags there to grab the moistures ?? just wondering...

Desiccant, like those little bags of silica you get in new shoes, do soak up moisture... but when they're full, they need to be replaced, or reactivated. Little sachets won't do bugger all to a large volume like a car.

Try looking for a product like this, that has silica that can be re-activated when it's full of moisture: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dry-Pack ... 29fd0ab90a

Grue wrote:Finally got around to getting the glue out of mine today. Not quite as easy a job as I expected... that glue's like bloody rock! Coat hanger would just bend, so ended up using a sharp, thin, electricians screwdriver bent at 45deg.

Sure it's a fiddly little job, but Christ it'll be worth it when it's done.

thread gave me enough motivation to get it done today. glue is damn hard, i know what you mean.

ended up using a small 45' plyer (spelling?) and a tiny screwdriver with a big screwdriver to act as a chisle. worked a treat, although i stoped every minute to see if i was denting the roof.

just to make sure, does the glue look like bubbles that connect the subframe to the roof skin? or does the glue run across the whole subframe? as i had 1 bubble in the exact same position on each side, front and back.

Nup, glue runs along the whole subframe. Has little air bubbles in it from memory. Hard as hell and a dark brown/grey colour. I think I had a picture of it in my guide.

Yeah, it's like bubbly cement. Horrible stuff! Was very paranoid about putting the screwdriver straight through the roof.

Yup, the pic in dstock's guide shows you exactly where the glue is.

ahhhh i see. i got all the rust connecting the roof - subframe. hopefully it will slow down the growth or at least stop bubbling the surface of the roof untill i can get a new roof rewelded.

Bennoz wrote: Every Jap built Mitsubishi from 97 onwards had the issue resolved. Ie, a non-hydroscopic (water absorbing) glue was used all models from then onwards.

but mines dated late 97 and still has bubbles.. ah man might be an exception, or maybe it meant for models above 97

nah its defs before on the 94, 95, 96 models something like that

you sure yours is a 97 model?

its in the seat belt, in the CIN, and vin, "08/97"

i just wanted to ask i got a few rust bubbles on my roof too i just wanted to get rid of it. Just out of curiosity cause in the kind it didn't state what glue do u use after u removed the old glue to stick the material back to the roof?

You don't replace it with any glue mate! The glue is between the metal roof skin and the frame. The felt material liner attaches back on with clips, not glue.

Removing the glue is only PREVENTITIVE. Once you have rust, you have a big problem. Rust is like cancer and you literally have to take a larger section than what is effected to make sure it wont come back. If you dont you have a massive chance of it coming back, like it did on mine ..... 5 TIMES. Mine is still not completely fixed either but as such it doesnt look like it's getting any worse.

Im not sure how much mine cost to fix as it was done all in one hit the the paint job, body kit boot and door lock shaving etc. But MsFTO went for a quote from the same company that did mine and he was going to charge her 2K.... but that is now he knows how hard it is to get right.

I'm getting ready to do the glue removal on my new 94 fto, no sunroof.

How long does it take, and what rust converter did you guys use ?

Allow 30 minutes to get the lining out. Id say about 45 minutes with a coat hanger after that should get most of it out. Wear a set of protective glasses. One of the members got a bit of it in his eye and it wasnt pretty. It can flick out just about anywhere. As to a rust neutraliser, it doesnt really matter as long as it does the job. Just make sure you get rid of any loose flaky bits before applying.