Where did you connect the multimeter? At the battery? At the alternator? At the cigarette lighter?
Also, what electricals did you have running at the time? Headlights? Rear demister? Big stereo?
If your gauge is accurate then you have a 1.33V voltage drop at idle. Under light electrical loads this could indicate a cabling (either ground or positive terminal) issue. This could possibly be the reason why your alternator died.
Otherwise, your gauge is stuffed. To check this, get to the back of the gauge and attach the multimeter to the paddles (with the gauge still connected). If the multimeter agrees with the gauge, the gauge is fine. (Unless the batteries in your multimeter are flat ).
The test results were with a reading from the battery - lights, AC, radio, etc, were all switched off.
I went to an Auto Electrician today. He tested the battery and advised it was okay. He then tested the alternators charge and he concluded that it was the alternator, not the battery or alternator cable. I was real keen on getting a second opinion so i called RACV to come have a look and he advised the same thing.
Im thinking if i need to get this replaced then i better get it done sooner than later, any one know were i can get an alternator (generic or reconditioned - if there any real difference??) for a manual gpx 95 in Melbourne, also with a quality install...the hidden mofo looks like a hasstle getting out!
I8A4RE wrote:Its your alternator you should be getting 14v on ldle, sounds to me regulaot has sh*t itself
BS! Read the workshop manual (Chassis Section 16-6). A voltage of 13.1 @ 2,500rpm is normal when the regulator is at 80C.
I'm not disagreeing that it is the alternator but saying you should get 14v at idle without stating under what sort if load conditions is just crap.
Oh well if the workshop manual says it must be true and how often do you check the temp of your regulator
My alternator reads 13.65 at idle close enough to 14, not 12.33. 12.33 is less than what a fully charged battery with car completely turned off should be at.
The GR and GPX have different alternators. The GPX has 4 connector pins, the GR only has 2.
I'd say the one you linked to would be suitable for a non-MIVEC FTO, since it lists is as being compatible with a HJ Galant, which ran a non-MIVEC 6A12.
Say for example the 2 pin alternator was installed on a mivec GPX, would the alternator just not worth full stop. or would it work but not as efficiently as a four pin alternator.??
redevil01 wrote:Say for example the 2 pin alternator was installed on a mivec GPX, would the alternator just not worth full stop. or would it work but not as efficiently as a four pin alternator.??
The 4 pin alternators are regulated by the ECU specifically for Mivec to function. 2 pin alternator in a GPX will equal no mivec.
Is there a separate fuse for the voltmeter on the dash? If you are getting say 8V on the voltmeter and the dash is flashing the battery light...would that mean the alternator's f*cked?
What does the battery light symbolise anyway? Alternator not charging?
You never get a second chance to make a first impression.
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and how often do you check the temp of your regulator 
