FTO AUSTRALIA

khunjeng wrote:

yellowftogpx wrote:

khunjeng wrote:It was advice for the buyer... pretty stock standard to start low and bargin your way up as required - I would consider someone pretty retarded not to start lowist...so a starting point of 13k and see what happens its pretty reasonable and standard approach.

regardless of what u or I think, the price is only what some1 is willing to pay.

yeh,agree.

which sucks I know

nope..thats cool...just cant win you

Clyde's price i think is entirely reasonable considering the modifications he's done--> especiallt those wheels. Love the wheels. Khunjeng you make a good point about doing modifications on the Version R as i definately will be very interested in doing so. The cumulative cost of the Version R +mods would be approaching 23K haha, so the value of Clyde's is really justified.

Much better than paying 12K for a 180Km (stockish) GPX i saw the oither day

Now if i can just get that deposit back

I am sure you will love clyde's FTO when you see it on Sunday, The HKS front bar looks very nice, I used to want his front bar so bad when I had my fto....

whitegpx wrote:I am sure you will love clyde's FTO when you see it on Sunday, The HKS front bar looks very nice, I used to want his front bar so bad when I had my fto....

yeah the HKS front bar is GOLD!

Bit late to be chucking my advice in but go the manual.

From varied sources and stuff...it seems the most reliable figure of weight difference between a same equipped transmission GPX and GPvR is 30kg. But the manual vs tip makes such a difference. Just look at best motoring tsukuba lap times...the tiptronic loses out to the manual by 2~3 seconds IIRC lol. Unless you're going to be doing a lot of city driving or can't drive manual due to personal reasons, i'd recommend getting the manual.

Did you say the gpx had adjustable coilovers ... ? If the GPvR you're looking at is stock suspension...the manual gpx with coilovers will definitely beat that particular gpvr around the track.

Oh btw, the best tsukuba lap time in a gpvr i've seen is 1.11
Best gpx time i've seen is 1.10
Chalk it upto different driver etc. But they are all pro drivers in best motoring so that should suggest the performance of the two is very similar. But then again, find a manual gpvr and you'll be laughing

Delvance wrote:Bit late to be chucking my advice in but go the manual.

From varied sources and stuff...it seems the most reliable figure of weight difference between a same equipped transmission GPX and GPvR is 30kg. But the manual vs tip makes such a difference. Just look at best motoring tsukuba lap times...the tiptronic loses out to the manual by 2~3 seconds IIRC lol. Unless you're going to be doing a lot of city driving or can't drive manual due to personal reasons, i'd recommend getting the manual.

Did you say the gpx had adjustable coilovers ... ? If the GPvR you're looking at is stock suspension...the manual gpx with coilovers will definitely beat that particular gpvr around the track.

Oh btw, the best tsukuba lap time in a gpvr i've seen is 1.11
Best gpx time i've seen is 1.10
Chalk it upto different driver etc. But they are all pro drivers in best motoring so that should suggest the performance of the two is very similar. But then again, find a manual gpvr and you'll be laughing

hey Delvance, 163.5kws ?? is that your fto ?or MPS ???

Lol, mps. My fto hit 116 before i broke the chassis and got rid of it =/. I should probably put a small mps note in my avatar pic huh...

Anyways
/hijack off

Delvance wrote:Lol, mps. My fto hit 116 before i broke the chassis and got rid of it =/. I should probably put a small mps note in my avatar pic huh...

Anyways
/hijack off

yeh..lol..hope to see a NA FTO can get 163.5kws atw...

Lol pretty hard...turbo fto's usually hit around that number and slightly higher.

No i wouldn't say impossible (almost anything is with $$$) but extremely unlikely we'll see an fto in 2.0l form hit 163kw atw... mid 140's would be achievable with all bolt ons done and an increase in capacity...otherwise in 2l form without touching the cams/rpms to remain street driveable, highest you can possibly see would be around mid 130's imho.

Delvance wrote:Lol pretty hard...turbo fto's usually hit around that number and slightly higher.

No i wouldn't say impossible (almost anything is with $$$) but extremely unlikely we'll see an fto in 2.0l form hit 163kw atw... mid 140's would be achievable with all bolt ons done and an increase in capacity...otherwise in 2l form without touching the cams/rpms to remain street driveable, highest you can possibly see would be around mid 130's imho.

yeh,160kws is too hard to achieve without turbo... but i just heard someone here said that the RPW is building an engine wihout turbo which will probably make 160kws atw...sounds exciting.. would like to donate my car for test if i could get that engine fitted in my fto for half price ...lol...dreaming...

did you give the dealer out at randwick a call about the manual vr that he had at the docks? (same guy with the black one i had a look at) that had 63xxxk's i thanks he said

From my experience the best way to go about it is to talk to a dealer in Japan. You can pretty much order what you want, e.g. manual version R < 50,000kms black, etc. Its cheaper and not that risky if you get a reputable dealer, just ask for an auction grade and some pics on the day of the auction. I dealt with a car yard in Sydney and now regret it, wish I had've gone through a Japanese dealer.

Also I know a dealer who for a bit of extra cash can organise everything from customs to compliance and delivery. Let me know if you want his details (also unfortunately I'm not making any money out of this post).

Try http://www.j-spec.com.au

I can arrange the same import process as I went through for mine too. Waiting is the main issue. Youre looking at about a 2 - 3 month wait by the time everything is sorted. It is certainly cheaper and you have much more control over the process (and what you get). The wait is what stops most people though.

My mechanic / importer now has RAWS accreditation for FTO's.

www.envyimports.com.au

He's not a dodgy Parramatta road guy either.

Mine was done by a mate of mine that used to work in the ADR section of Dept of Transport. He does a bit of consulting on it now (and can also compliance). He arranged the lot for me. All I had to do was choose and hand over the cash.

We’ve gone a bit of topic here and I can’t tell if a decision has been reached but I’m gonna throw my 2 cents in anyway.

On paper GPvR manual wins over GPX Tip.
From my own experience, my tip GPX beat a manual GPvR twice on rolling starts. First was 40-80 and then 40-100.

Both had similar mods too of CAI and exhaust. I rate the drive of the other car just as good as myself so there was not much in it. Rolling starts practically eliminate driver error anyway.

He did pull about half a car length ahead each time as soon as we hit it but I soon pulled it back after a few seconds and got in front.

This is not The Law of GPvR v’s GPX, just my story.

P.s. this was all performed in controlled conditions, I don’t condone street racing etc.

This was the other way round though I think

Manual Linited Edition GPX (with LSD + mods), Stock Tip GPvR. In that case, the GPX would probably be the pick.

dstocks wrote:This was the other way round though I think

Manual Linited Edition GPX (with LSD + mods), Stock Tip GPvR. In that case, the GPX would probably be the pick.

My story doesn't really help then huh?