Work Log - Max The Turk - Manual conversion

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 1:43 pm

I have finally undo the nuts,
Found a genious way of doing it which it only took me less then 5 mins for both nuts,
Forget about long extension/breaker bars, which you will probably hurt your back, and will take longer

Here is how to undo the driveshaft nuts;

Put something just under the plastic part of your wrench, so it doesnt get damaged.
get someone to press the brake hard, and keep raising the standard FTO jack,
No pressure on your back, no need to pull anything, easy as...

And this is how to celebrate;

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:14 pm

who the f&8k max.

didn't we do this yesterday?

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:57 pm

khunjeng wrote:who the f&8k max.

didn't we do this yesterday?

yeah, I think we had too many drinks that we werent realising it was working,

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:08 pm

mxysxy wrote:
khunjeng wrote:who the f&8k max.

didn't we do this yesterday?
yeah, I think we had too many drinks that we werent realising it was working,

lol
true...it did sound like it was working....did it make those noises again??

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:56 pm

khunjeng wrote:
mxysxy wrote:
khunjeng wrote:who the f&8k max.

didn't we do this yesterday?
yeah, I think we had too many drinks that we werent realising it was working,
lol
true...it did sound like it was working....did it make those noises again??

yep, the cracking noise was coming from the nut as it was getting undone

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:58 pm

transmission drained,
all the connectors undone,
selector cable undone,
atf pipes undone

having a break now, will remove the downpipes later today

martgpx · Post by **martgpx** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:57 pm

mxysxy wrote:having a break now, will remove the downpipes later today

Stop slacking and get on with it!!!

That's the hardest bit done

Glad you got your tight nuts sorted!!!!

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:57 pm

its a marathon not a sprint!

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:13 pm

taken off the down pipes,
taken off the starter motor,

I got stuck with removal off drive shafts,
I cant seem to be able to get them out, although applying plenty of leverage with a pry bar,
Is there any other bolt or something else I am missing?
Is there any easier or priority side, driver or passanger?

My neck is very sore btw

martgpx · Post by **martgpx** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 3:37 am

no there is no easier side tbh. as long as you have dropped the hubs off the shaft should just pop out. Try a longer pry bar, or 2 pry bars, or get a chisel and put it between the box and cv joint then hit it in a sideways motion (not into the joint, but towards the wheel end of the shaft) they are a bit of a fiddle but should pop out with a bit of a whack

!!! All that's holding them is a circular clip, like a wire

Try turning them and pulling gently at the same time, as the clip can drop a little as well

marathon not a sprint remember!!

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:57 am

Last night, I moved on to the inside of the car, while saving my energy for the drive shaft for tonight

Taken out the auto gear selector stick/unit

To take out the selector cables, there was a few bolts at the firewall,
To get to them, had to take out the tip computer and that black air vent thing

Those 2 bolts were very hard to get to, I managed to get them out,
However, it still looks like I need to further remove that tray thing that was holding the tip computer. it is blocking the metal surround of the selector cable.

I got these *~delightful!~* looking MOMO pedals covers taken off from the donator car, if anyone wants it you can have it. Otherwise will throw them out tonight.

Aiming to drop the g/box tonight

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:11 pm

bit more work done with the selector cable swap,

I end up not removing that bottom tray but bending enough to give some space to take out the selector cable metal cap.

Put in the manual cables,

bolted the manual stick, and connected the selector cables
That nob has to change immediately!!!

Tip computer and black air vent goes back in all connected,

martgpx · Post by **martgpx** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:45 pm

looking good!! you'll need that air vent off again when you drill the hole for the clutch pedal mate

Are you doing the clutch pedal next? this is one of the hardest bits to get right, and you will only get one attempt with the 38mm hole-saw

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:26 pm

done some more work,

I managed to get the driver side of the driveshaft out, but still the passenger side impossible to take out. Just to much pressure.
So I left the bugger there, and will drop the gearbox with driveshaft on it.

removed the centermember bolts x 4 and g/box mount bolts on the member x 2

Check out the condition of the rear mount on centermember. Need to be rebuilt with polly.

removed the bell housing cover, 6 bolts
removed the drive plate, 4 bolts. Had to turn the engine to get to the bolts. Access is very limited, and very tight bolts.
Supported the engine with bottle jack, some wood in between to prevent any damage, and back up support with bricks.
Supported g/box with garage jack, some wood in between to prevent any damage
Removed all the other bolts connection g/box to the engine,
Removed the g/box top mount, Get this out of the place, otherwise there is not enough space to push the g/box away from engine, side ways.
After fiddling a bit, slowly dropped the g/box on to the ground, and get it out of under the car through the passenger wheel arce. Had to take of the arce plastic cover to open up some space
Tip g/box is a lot heavier then manual!!!

Here is the pics of bottle jack supporting the engine, bricks are the back up.

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:31 pm

martgpx wrote:looking good!! you'll need that air vent off again when you drill the hole for the clutch pedal mate Are you doing the clutch pedal next? this is one of the hardest bits to get right, and you will only get one attempt with the 38mm hole-saw

I was actually aiming to finish drilling the firewall today, but got tired now.
Will get into that tomorrow.
Bought the holesaw kit today though.

Need to order the clutch and flywheel now.

Do you guys think buying a ligthened flywheel will make much difference?
Where can I get it also?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:08 am

mxysxy wrote:
martgpx wrote:looking good!! you'll need that air vent off again when you drill the hole for the clutch pedal mate Are you doing the clutch pedal next? this is one of the hardest bits to get right, and you will only get one attempt with the 38mm hole-saw
I was actually aiming to finish drilling the firewall today, but got tired now.
Will get into that tomorrow.
Bought the holesaw kit today though.

Need to order the clutch and flywheel now.

Do you guys think buying a ligthened flywheel will make much difference?
Where can I get it also?

some clutch kits will have them..

at a minimum you will need to machine the flywheel anyway.

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:30 am

Nah you wont get a lightened flywheel with a kit, you will need to have it milled to removed pounds - unless you wanna approach rpw for a big $$ billet alloy unit.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:13 pm

Bennoz wrote:Nah you wont get a lightened flywheel with a kit, you will need to have it milled to removed pounds - unless you wanna approach rpw for a big $$ billet alloy unit.

yeah your probably right...I got confused cos I got a lightened flywheel when i got my clutch recently..might have been a seperate item.

anyhoo....needs be be machined still i guess?

JOeJOe · Post by **JOeJOe** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:53 pm

I'm fascinated by this project. Here comes the stupid question ...

I'm assuming you have a 4 speed tip, if you change it to manual will it be running on 4 gears or can you change it to run on 5 gears?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:56 pm

JOeJOe wrote:I'm fascinated by this project. Here comes the stupid question ...

I'm assuming you have a 4 speed tip, if you change it to manual will it be running on 4 gears or can you change it to run on 5 gears?

lol

he is changing the gearbox...hence if its 5 speed gb...he has 5 gears.

The tip is gone...