FTO AUSTRALIA

Well that was hard... not!

Not driven her yet, will update when I do.

I was looking at them but they look like they would not do any thing
let us know how they go Ben.

Yeah, I dont reckon I'll notice anything till I hit the track again..

so how do you feel about it? any effect?

Just bought my first fto and it came with some adjustable D2 coilovers, does anyone know how much they are worth second hand? im interested in selling them and replacing them with the stock suspensions setup or some affordable aftermarket ones more suited to the road. They are in good conditions and i would of kept them except for the fact that the ride is harsh on bumpy sydney roads and im aware that these are set for track driving (they corner amazingly!). What do you guys think? How much could i get for them and what should i replace them with that will offer a more comfortable ride on the road?

KYB Excel-G with king springs would be the best choice in terms of affordability and street drivability
very easy to source. would recommend to get them from bursons.

thanks for the advice mate, im assuming they would need to be shipped considering bursons are not located in nsw, unless there is a branch in sydney

theres heaps in outlets.
www.burson.com.au

Hi guys, i want to about the coil wrap around the springs. Which part do you wrap? the part with closer gap or with wider gap?
And also referring to rear springs, does the part with closer spring gap facing up or down?

Bennoz wrote:Well that was hard... not!

Not driven her yet, will update when I do.

Apart from it being shiney is there any difference Ben? I have to admit a great deal of scepticism about bolting two ends of a solid chassis bit together making any difference

Had a go to replace the rear struts last night and it was hell. the centre bolt of the strut has seized, it was so bad that it rounded the top flat tip of the strut so theres no where else to clamp onto. Tried to hit it, lubricate it and even freeze it. nothing works.
To my anger, i decided to destroy it! LOL.
Armed with only a hand drill, chisel and hammer, managed to get this bugger out.

took the spring out and compared the difference with Kings Springs lowered. The old spring was branded Espelir. please do a google for more information.


FYI, the bumpstop and the dust cover looks like this. The problem is with the spring compressor. They then to poke onto the dust cover during compression so the dust cover can be a little deform or damaged.

Going to fix them up later tonight. Hope no more dramas!

Great thread,

I am after advice on what amount of lowering I should get and what people have.

Was considering 36mm I think. They are King springs front and rear.

Would love the front lower than that so it goes into the arch nicer
I have to keep in mind of the front bar though..

Would like to replace my shocks so figure I may as well get some new springs while I am at it.

Cheers!

my rear drop links are gone again, went for some new ones and what do I find...

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instru ... KLC047.pdf

Nice one Whiteline! not sure if this was mentioned before.

KJ

ok the car is going in for the timing belt and since i have no time to do stuff I will get them to also update the following:

1. SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing - buy
2. SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing - buy
3. SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (16k) – (have these already)
4. Front Drop Links – (have these already)
5. adjust my rear konis to softest setting and install new softer springs - aim to go closer to stock while maintainng current ride height i.e. approach Front 2.6 & Back 1.6
6. Read drop links and bushes – new whiteline heavy duty ones on already with poly bushes

Question is Ben what Rear bushes are best to do also while Im at it replacing with poly...I cant seem to work out whats a useful upgrade in the rear end. Front seems to be taken care of in items 1-3

Cheers, KJ

The only ones I've done in the rear (not including my misses ) were the rear trailing arm bushes (offset) and the anti rollbar bushes.

The trailing arm bushes gave me more neg camber - which I found I really didn't need as the 2 bolts that the new rear brace bolt to are actually cam-lobed style. Ie can be wound round to adjust the camber.

The ride did feel a lot nicer on poly thou.

khunjeng wrote:ok the car is going in for the timing belt and since i have no time to do stuff I will get them to also update the following:

1. SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing - buy
2. SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing - buy
3. SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (16k) – (have these already)
4. Front Drop Links – (have these already)
5. adjust my rear konis to softest setting and install new softer springs - aim to go closer to stock while maintainng current ride height i.e. approach Front 2.6 & Back 1.6
6. Read drop links and bushes – new whiteline heavy duty ones on already with poly bushes

Question is Ben what Rear bushes are best to do also while Im at it replacing with poly...I cant seem to work out whats a useful upgrade in the rear end. Front seems to be taken care of in items 1-3

Cheers, KJ

I'm going through this with refurbing the rear suspension. i got a new swinging arm which I have refurbed with poly bushes and I have been looking into the bushes on the dog bones, or control arms. I dont have acces to CAPS at the moment but if they are the same dimensions as the EVO 2/3 ones then you can get a full set of poly bushes for them, but they cost an arm and a leg.

If someone has access to CAPS can you please check to see if the EVO 2/3 ones are the same as the FTO ones or if they are different sizes? See HERE and HERE for the links I mean.

Ta,

Bill

Just checjed and they are the same as the EVO ones so thanks anyway.

Bennoz wrote:The only ones I've done in the rear (not including my misses ) were the rear trailing arm bushes (offset) and the anti rollbar bushes.

The trailing arm bushes gave me more neg camber - which I found I really didn't need as the 2 bolts that the new rear brace bolt to are actually cam-lobed style. Ie can be wound round to adjust the camber.

The ride did feel a lot nicer on poly thou.

Thanks I will do that at the same time and have a look at the new drop links to suss out why it maybe noving a bit. That should finish up all the upgrades/changes.

My suspension has needed work for ages but I've just put up with it as I've not been driving the FTO as much as I used to, probably due to the suspension sucking. So I'm looking at throwing about a grand at it and want some tips.

At the moment all I know that it's got are Pedders lowering springs, these where on it when I bought it.

The steering is heavy esp at low speed, tyres are fine (might be unrelated)
It creeks at the front when cold going over speed bumps but not the rear.

I don't want it to be extremely hard as it hasn't seen any track time and just get's used on Sydney roads. I'd like to see it on the track but just for fun so not worth going all out on suspension for a few laps a year.

What do you suggest? Thanks.

AJ wrote:My suspension has needed work for ages but I've just put up with it as I've not been driving the FTO as much as I used to, probably due to the suspension sucking. So I'm looking at throwing about a grand at it and want some tips.

At the moment all I know that it's got are Pedders lowering springs, these where on it when I bought it.

The steering is heavy esp at low speed, tyres are fine (might be unrelated)
It creeks at the front when cold going over speed bumps but not the rear.

I don't want it to be extremely hard as it hasn't seen any track time and just get's used on Sydney roads. I'd like to see it on the track but just for fun so not worth going all out on suspension for a few laps a year.

What do you suggest? Thanks.

Take it to Pedders for a $12 suspension check for starters , but don't get ANYTHING from them. (or for QLD'ers take it to Fulcrum Suspension for a free check and actually get them to do the work as well )
Get them to pay specific attention to the droplinks / strut tops / bushes

$1000 might get you droplinks & bushes & new struts if you're doing the labour yourself - shop around for best price - RPW is pretty good for the struts, but not sure about postage - if they're the stock units out of the factory, then I would suggest replacing them, cause you will need to do it sooner or later (14-15y years takes their toll & cheaper / just as cheap to do it while everything else is out.) .. may as well keep the springs if they're not busted
If you have left over cash, replace the strut tops