FTO AUSTRALIA

Waterpumps are $80 lol

Actually they're $67.

I'd be willing to help you do it. (Do it for you )

Vectose wrote:Actually they're $67.

I'd be willing to help you do it. (Do it for you )

You'd be a dickhead not to do the timing belt while there though lol

Sahin wrote:

Vectose wrote:Actually they're $67.

I'd be willing to help you do it. (Do it for you )

You'd be a dickhead not to do the timing belt while there though lol

That would be a good idea as well ... I only did power steering and a/c belts..

Sahin wrote:

Vectose wrote:Actually they're $67.

I'd be willing to help you do it. (Do it for you )

You'd be a dickhead not to do the timing belt while there though lol

Of course you would do the timing belt.

Sahin wrote:Waterpumps are $80 lol

But paying a mechanic to put one in and do timing belt is an extra 0 after that.

If you guys are willing to help then I really would appreciate it (assuming that is the problem)

Day 3 - no visit to auto sparky yet

Daniel2019 wrote:

Sahin wrote:Waterpumps are $80 lol

But paying a mechanic to put one in and do timing belt is an extra 0 after that.

If you guys are willing to help then I really would appreciate it (assuming that is the problem)

Yep ... Let's rule out everything before that though ... You don't want to go to that trouble if that is not the issue...

Bennoz wrote:Day 3 - no visit to auto sparky yet

ROR! Well, I still think we can avoid an auto elec by testing properly first... Which would be what Fraz has recommended...

I said water pump first! Let's just be clear!

rock_it wrote:Well, I still think we can avoid an auto elec by testing properly first... Which would be what Fraz has recommended...

Yay, I helped!

(I think )

Day 11, no visit to auto sparky

*insert tightarse smilie here*

OK going to throw my 2 cents worth in

1. If you disconnected the sensor and the fans turn on and you drive the car with the aircon off, Does it overheat?
If it doesn't then its not the waterpump or the radiator.

2. If you disconnected the sensor and the fans turn on then this is a normally open circuit. Which means that you have to put a normally closed sensor in.
this means that when the temp increases the circuit opens and the fans turn on.
IF you put a normally closed sensor in (the wrong one) the fans would be on when you first start the car but as it gets to running temp the fans would turn off
causing the car to overheat.

I do hope that this did not cause to much more confusion.

Day 15...

ROR!

I think we have established there is also a dash sensor that was not replaced with the coolant temp sensor...

I am guessing, he is going to try to replace that as well ... I think it was in Vegemite's thread...

That sensor doesn't affect if or when the fans turn on though.. So don't think it will be much help.

destinationtoby wrote:That sensor doesn't affect if or when the fans turn on though.. So don't think it will be much help.

Well the thing is, he doesn't know if the car is overheating... So the fans could not be kicking in because there is no need..

Oh
Well for reference, I've been driving around without the sensor connect. And the fans work as normal, turn on for a short time after a decent drive.
Sensor only has a single wire connected to it, which gives the reading to the needle in the cluster

destinationtoby wrote:Oh
Well for reference, I've been driving around without the sensor connect. And the fans work as normal, turn on for a short time after a decent drive.
Sensor only has a single wire connected to it, which gives the reading to the needle in the cluster

I know that when I was driving Smurf, the gauge would get just above half way (say close to 3/4) and the fan would kick in, and cool it back down to half. I knew the gauge was reading higher though, from how quick it went from start up...

From what Dan was saying, the last time the fans came on, the heat was above 3/4, and he didn't want to overheat... So he doesn't want it to get to that temp again ... To be safe... So I am not sure if the car is actually getting to a temp where the fans are meant to kick in, as the car hasn't been run ..

That was why he went down the path of replacing sensors and testing if the fans work. So we know the fans do work, and hence why Mat was suggesting it was cluster... So it could be cluster and cluster sensor that are bung... Rather than anything else, as there is no apparent water leaks...

True.
He should take the dash sensor out and give it a clean, mine had some build up on it a ages ago when I noticed the gauge was sitting above normal and got worried.. Took it out to replace it, but the replacement didn't fit, ended up just cleaning it and it read normal.
Broke it the other day when trying to splice in another wire for the digital gauges, and it now reads 150degrees before the car even starts up LOL

destinationtoby wrote:Broke it

Bennoz.

You know what to do!