FTO AUSTRALIA

Looking good, how long till you have it back?

Hey fella, that is looking really mint. I am especially interested in the drivers side IC piping. If your piping needs to come off again, can you lay it on the ground and take a bunch of photos?

I want to compare it to my own to see if I have space to modify my current setup.

Yeah, can do

Dunno when she'll be ready, we're hoping to get her on the dyno next week

hey ben mate is the piping size 2.5inch mate or smaller buddy. Any chance for a second set being made up and ship for like 250 or 300 if I can get the money?

To be honest mate, you'll be waiting till Christmas to get that from my mechanic. Get your guy to build your own.

Minor update!

The boys have had a change of heart with computers, seems this is gonna be a whole bunch easier to wire up to a stand alone ECU. Especially with the aim of pissing off the MAF sensor. So they are currently finishing up a mini loom for the standard items that need to be wired up, fuse boxes & headlights etc.

ECU we are using is a new Haltech 1000 series platinum.
http://www.haltech.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=77
Im gonna take the next few days to go down & help wire it up. They're going gang busters on it now. May well be on the road by next week!

damn ben that must mean afair bit more money needed man.
Are they just doing this to make it easier or because it has become impossible with the old loom mand piggyback mate.
Wow at least your mechanic seems to be working on your car and trying to gt it finished mate.

Apparently its very difficult to splice the looms together. Some of the wire signals are analogue, some are digital. I'd already paid $650 for the piggyback which they'll credit me, apparently the new one is closer to $1000 (mates rates)

lol yeah, he needs his hoist back apparently

ok ben what are the advantages of having the stand alone mate. I want my car done quick as possible so if it is easier getting a stand alone system I will. Can you get me 1 for mates rates

Swet prez cant go wrong with the haltech

I8A4RE wrote:Swet prez cant go wrong with the haltech

yes you can needing the triggers for it as they dont have them for the FTO just yet but they are working on them

aza013 wrote:

I8A4RE wrote:Swet prez cant go wrong with the haltech

yes you can needing the triggers for it as they dont have them for the FTO just yet but they are working on them

but it's 'really' not an FTO anymore

they have them for the 6A13 but not the 6A12
sorry I still need more coffee

aza013 wrote: they have them for the 6A13 but not the 6A12
sorry I still need more coffee

happens to me too, most days i have 2 coffee's a V to keep me going.

aza013 wrote:

I8A4RE wrote:Swet prez cant go wrong with the haltech

yes you can needing the triggers for it as they dont have them for the FTO just yet but they are working on them

hmm not sure what you mean? My tuner says its not a problem whatso eva. I really dont have a great deal of knowledge on this side of things

Ok, major update. Been working on the sh*t of a thing all day *sore backs*

All the new plumbing is currently off so we can do the wiring, so if it looks worse don't worry, we are actually moving forward


Flash new forged sard FPR:





New Haltech 1000 sports Platinum. This is so new, we dont think anyone else is running this new version yet.



New loom in car, fed through firewall.



Engine bay end of loom



Now with a stand alone ECU we have completely ripped off the existing loom. All we need from it is all the plugs that hook into coil packs, injectors, sensors etc. We had to strip down the timing belt end of the motor again, so we could hook into both the cam & crank angle sensors. We pulled the front cam pulley off & ground some metal off it so it would work with this setup. On the back of the pulley there are 4 lugs of metal (4 tabs at 90, 180, 270, 360 degrees) and all we need for the cam angle sensor to work with this ECU is 1 tab. So we ground off 3 of the 4 tabs then reassembled the timing belt end.

While all this was going on, I set about relocating the battery to the boot. This setup must meet certain RTA regs. Its has to be a dry or gel cell battery (ie no water & venting as the boot is technically a sealed area.) we also needed 40 gauge wire & a 150 amp fuseable link, located as close to the battery as possible & all the joins we soldered & heat wrapped.





You'll see here I used the old battery tray from the engine bay. I had to cut a corner off it to fit & a little metal manipulation as the battery needs to be solid mounted. I also drilled through both the tray and the plastic tool tray it sat in & bolted it solid to the underside of the car. It was a good way to both reuse an existing part & also keep the plastic tray in the boot - as it also acts as 1 half of the boot board support Was able to hook up the existing battery support bracket as well.



Connectors & fusable link before being connected.



Finished product







This is an interesting shot. Here you can see the wires we required to make the magic happen (on left) and wires in the universal Haltech loom we dont need (on right!)



A closer look at the loom heasding into the injector rail & coil packs.



Last shot of the day. Im fucked now, going off to bed to dream about wire

sleep is for the weak!! Get your ass back to work on it Looking good though mate. Will this new ecu control your nos as well?

yano28 wrote: Will this new ecu control your nos as well?

Sure will

hey Ben i just spent all afternoon pulling new motor apart and putting all the stuff off the old motor which is needed. I took the rear turbo off to change the manifold mate, I noticed that their is a lip on the old manifold and turbo with a piece of metal in between them both, which seems to slot the two piecese togther. The new manifold does not have a small lip on the inside of it was this the same with yours mate.

P.s motor is nearly done and my car is a manual.

Good to see some progress Ben, its coming along real well, were gonna have to organize a mini cruise to check it out and take it for a spin once its finished

Got a question though, that front mount I.C looks massive in that last pic, wont that mean shitloads of turbo lag? Or have you already done something to combat turbo lag?

There will be very little lag mate. The factory turbo's are tiny & the fact that there are 2 spooling up at the same time aids that further. If we do run into any lag, we just dial in the nos to speed the spool up

nvr2low wrote:hey Ben i just spent all afternoon pulling new motor apart and putting all the stuff off the old motor which is needed. I took the rear turbo off to change the manifold mate, I noticed that their is a lip on the old manifold and turbo with a piece of metal in between them both, which seems to slot the two piecese togther. The new manifold does not have a small lip on the inside of it was this the same with yours mate.

Yeah just piss that off. The turbo just bolts onto the new manifold, just make sure you face it the right way (dump pipe on the right hand side when you look at the assembly from the front of the car.)