FTO AUSTRALIA

Astron_Boy wrote:I entered the thread and sniffed some Gen Y.

Thought for a second you were buying the ute.

The Gen Y set.

Where am I?



I dare say, if you really want to put this engine in to the new shell to have a decent runner, then you really need to read up on what exactly goes in to building an engine.
From reading over the dribble above I can't determine where you are; enough to give a decent answer.

But more or less, you would want all new parts to ensure the thing will stay alive.
Have the heads checked and decked, new gaskets all round, replace sensors, mech items, etc.

Honestly things like mods make things complicated with these motors and ECUs.
Your best honest bet is to get the motor running factory form and into a shell so it's running.

And THEN go about modding.

atleast then you are confident in oem construction enough to understand where to go from there.

my 2c, ex. gst and carbon tax.

Vectose wrote:http://www.amayama.com Most engine parts should be cheaper than Camskill and shipping isn't bad either. You will probably need to use ASA to get the part numbers (Or just use the ones from Camskill)

Daniel2019 wrote:For now its bedtime!

Saw your name and figured there was gonna be some ing going on, I must admit

Cheers rob!

Astron_Boy wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:For now its bedtime!

Saw your name and figured there was gonna be some ing going on, I must admit

Cheers rob!

Night Snookems.

I'm surprised you didn't expect worse from me, let alone veccy boy.

Only reason I say stay factory form.
I've seen far too many rookies go belly up, waste a tonne of cash to never get the modded motor properly running.

Down the road, they buy stock and wonder WTF they were ever thinking.

The other side of the coin is if you simply don't care and have the cash.

Somehow I don't think you're the latter.

Taz wrote:I guess one of the exceptions to what astron said would be the pistons being replaced with forgies, only because there would be no difference in how the engine handles or performs with either in, it is only the strength of them that sets them apart (as far as i know) So would it not be better to spend that little extra now to get them rather than a lot more down the road?

payaya wrote:http://www.kerzan.co.nz/listing.php?cat ... ive__Parts

$120 for a VRS kit.

aza013 wrote:Looks like you can open up the air intake manifold pipes a little .

Daniel2019 wrote:Got down to the headers today. Cant get the last bolt undone on either side because it sits at an odd angle and the pipes get in the way of my socket. Rusted on too tight to use much else that will fit. WD40 and have another crack tomorrow me thinks.

fraz91 wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:Got down to the headers today. Cant get the last bolt undone on either side because it sits at an odd angle and the pipes get in the way of my socket. Rusted on too tight to use much else that will fit. WD40 and have another crack tomorrow me thinks.

A pair of ring-spanners does wonders here. Use the one you need on the bolt head, and then another one with the ring end over the open-ender and it acts as a lever. Alternatively, a correctly sized bar will slide over and give you the leverage you need.

In the words of Archimedes: "Give me a lever long enough and I can lift the world"