Engine Oil.. which one?

sublime19 · Post by **sublime19** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:35 am

I'm gonna do an oil change this weekend, which oil should I buy? and approx. cost would be great. thanks

d_stroy_r · Post by **d_stroy_r** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:51 am

ive had magnatec before, pretty good for the price.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:00 pm

if i was u I would be using a esther based oil such as Motul V servies or Redline (if u have the cash) they are both good oils as they have a significant esther content which has much better engine protection properties. The "magnetec" stuff is based on this however its esther content is very low- almost zero...hence its crap and just a normal full sync.

Motul or Redline...use this a few time and the additives they use will help break down a lot of the crap and clean you engine..redline especially.

if u think all of this is crap..just get a fully sync oil for like $50 - Mobile 1 for example and chnage every 4-5000 kms. thats good value for money also.

however the HTHS rating of the redline product sh*ts all over Mobile 1..i.e. a redline 10W-30 film thickness is better than that of a fully sync 0w-40.

btw use 10W-30 in u FTO...another fact is that for every rating drop u have increased HP...like 2/3 so lower rating will be better however this means u need a high quality oil to retain good proection at start-up for example.

however after all of that...if u can get your hands on some Mobil Delvac this is quite cheap and realy high quality oil - BMW re-branded it a while back for their cars.

my 2cents.

bigpitty1 · Post by **bigpitty1** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:02 pm

I use Mobil 1 10w-30, I think its a bit pricy, around $80 for 5 litres, but I get it at work for nothing.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 9:14 pm

there was an article i saw recently that sates that if you use fully synthetic and change every 5000kms you bascially dont let the oil do its job. Fully synths are meant to be in your engine a while to fully utilise the properties of oil.

Dont use magnetec that crap puts a thin layer of crap all over your engine. Take off your rocker cover and you will see this. Motus seems good im using it at the moment.

mike · Post by **mike** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 10:10 pm

True, a quality fully synth oil should be changed at 10000 not 5000. By all means change the cheaper oils at 5000 though.

You will find the most popular engine oil chosen by FTO drivers if Mobil1.

Mike

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:13 am

payaya wrote:there was an article i saw recently that sates that if you use fully synthetic and change every 5000kms you bascially dont let the oil do its job. Fully synths are meant to be in your engine a while to fully utilise the properties of oil.

Dont use magnetec that crap puts a thin layer of crap all over your engine. Take off your rocker cover and you will see this. Motus seems good im using it at the moment.

IMO the best choice of oil will be POE base stock; oil like Motul 300V, Redline street oil, Fuchs silkrone. Got excellent HTHS, additives package and higher flash point.
2nd choices will be PAO base stock oil like Mobil 1, RP or Castrol SLX.

It's not really a good idea to use such a wide spread engine oil of 5w50 due to it's high VII content, you should choose the smallest wt spread like 10w30 or 15w40. Currently 5w20, 10w30 or 15w40 oil wt use the least VII in their oil formulation.

akuma3 · Post by **akuma3** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:43 pm

I don't really get the spread thing, can anyone explain a bit further? What's the best for FTO?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:10 pm

akuma3 wrote:I don't really get the spread thing, can anyone explain a bit further? What's the best for FTO?

The quick answer is 10W-30! the long answer...let me know if you want some details....use POE base stock as above.

another option is Mobile Delvac - usually under the diesel section and hard to find...high quality oil as they have a lot of goodies used to help with the diesel process and is good for your car...can be around $40 to which is damn cheep and a bit of an unknown option.

Jono · Post by **Jono** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:59 pm

Ive tried Motul 8100 5w 40 which wasnt bad. but i spun a bearing on track... so with this bad experience ive moved back to mobil 5w 50 , a little thicker for track use...

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:21 pm

Also a little thicker for all these motors that have done over 100k! I wouldnt be putting 10w30 in... not unless my tappets were adjusted to perfection.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:16 am

thicker doesn't mean more protection...depends on your oil.

for track work :

It's not really a good idea to use such a wide spread engine oil of 5w50 due to it's high VII content, you should choose the smallest wt spread like 10w30 or 15w40. the VII addatives are used to help multigrade oil increase viscosity at high temps over base (i.e a 10W-40 is 4 times its base viscosity) but are not lubricants and break down more easily...hence more frequent changes.

in the end do what you want...its no just the SAE number on the box that determines what your oil is or how it performs...

Try looking at VI, HTHS ratings and their addative mix to get an idea of what is good. I will stick to my Redline 10W-30 over a 10W-40/50 Mobile 1 as it has the same protection with the lower visc at high temps to suit the FTO engine. Not to mention its a high quality stable with minimal thickners used in other brands.

just an addition from a guy who builds and races Ferrari's from the US:

As we increase the heat from 212 F to 302 F the most commonly recommended oil thins from 10 cS to 3 cS. The thicker oil drops from 20 cS to 4 cS. Note that in a very hot engine the difference between the two oils is now only 1 - 2 cS. In other words they have about the same thickness. There is little advantage to a thicker based oil as a 20W-50 at very high temperatures. No, the 4 cS oil is not twice as thick as the 2 or 3 cS oil. This difference is almost insignificant.

There is a huge advantage of using the thinner, 10W-30 at startup where 90 percent of the engine wear occurs. At 75 F the thicker oil has a viscosity in the range of 250 cS while the thinner oil has a viscosity of 100 cS. The thicker stuff is 150 cS thicker. This is a very big difference. I am using the 20W-50 as my thicker oil example here.

just IMO anyway.

sublime19 · Post by **sublime19** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:34 pm

Ah I was browsing through and realised I never replied to this.
I ended up getting redline, i think i paid like $75 or so for it? My friend's an apprentice mechanic from the past couple of years so he gets me things for cheap.

Thanks for all the advice, didn't realise there was so much to learn about fuel, and u explained it pretty well. Thanks again

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:07 pm

i use 10w-40 and it works fine no tappet noise either... 100,700kms

i change every 5,000 though

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:30 pm

sublime19 wrote:Ah I was browsing through and realised I never replied to this.
I ended up getting redline, i think i paid like $75 or so for it? My friend's an apprentice mechanic from the past couple of years so he gets me things for cheap.

Thanks for all the advice, didn't realise there was so much to learn about fuel, and u explained it pretty well. Thanks again

you'll be happy with that product. $75 is a bargin price.

sublime19 · Post by **sublime19** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:49 pm

ye I can feel the difference it just reacts quicker somehow