Brakes, shocks & xenons.

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Astron_Boy
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Re: Brakes, shocks & xenons.

Post by Astron_Boy »

Awesome advice Shane!
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fraz91
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Re: Brakes, shocks & xenons.

Post by fraz91 »

Astron_Boy wrote:If you hit the track, then I would suggest slotted, but for the road, slotted is simply for show in my opinion.
Just going to point out that Slotted Rotors will extend the life of your pads, as they essentially "scrape" away at the pad to ensure it isn't being worn unevenly. Shane's case of cracking the DBA4000's is pretty extreme, and they're rated as a "street series" rotor to be used on the occasional track day, not a full-on racing setup like the brembo's. We run the DBA 4000's on all our work vehicles (Toyota 4x4's, all in excess of 2T) and have never had an issue. This includes steep descents off-road and then straight into river crossings where the heat changes are phenomenal. The slotted's aren't just for show, they make one hell of a difference.

D-stocks also mentioned Braided brake lines. Personally, I'd do these before going to a slotted rotor, as you're changing from the factory rubber lines, which will expand under heavy braking/emergency stops, to stainless steel lines that will not deform. I'm running braided lines on the triton with a set of HD pads, and the difference in braking performance is outstanding. Pulls my 2.1T truck up pretty damn quickly (not quite as good as an FTO, but getting there 8) ). Standard-style rotors with upgraded pads will make a world of difference, and you can only go up from there ;)
I'll have an FTO one day... i swear!

until then:
1. 2001 Merc-Benz A160 (porta-loo on wheels)
2. 2007 Peugeot 307 TDi (more fun than you'd expect)
3. [url=ttp://ftoaustralia.com/v3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=25373]2009 Mitsubishi Triton Di-D (a monster in its own right)[/url]
4. 1992 Nissan NX Coupe (club car and project car)
5. 1996 Holden SB Barina - "The Nugget"
6. 1996 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport - The Budget Build
7. 2010 Toyota Landcruiser 76 Series - V8 Goodness... - Build coming soon.
8. 1990 Audi 90 manual - The delightfully dignified daily driver
Astron_Boy wrote:No correction needed Gen Y, you are correct.
Bennoz wrote:My rubbing happens on the inside.
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Shane001
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Re: Brakes, shocks & xenons.

Post by Shane001 »

fraz91 wrote:not a full-on racing setup like the brembo's
The Brembo rotor I quoted is a street enthusiast OEM replacement, not 'a full-on racing setup' ;)
http://www.brembo.com/en/car/Racing/Str ... Discs.aspx

They are a 'street' rotor, not a 'race' rotor.

And the DBA4000 are advertised as 'Clubspec Road & Race';
http://www.dba.com.au/products/clubspec-t/
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Shane001
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Re: Brakes, shocks & xenons.

Post by Shane001 »

TIP: If buying slotted rotors, don't buy one's that are slotted right to the outer edge. This creates a weakness that is prone to cracking.
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Astron_Boy
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Re: Brakes, shocks & xenons.

Post by Astron_Boy »

As mentioned, this is mostly in my opinion, as the majority of threads on here are.

Given majority of people don't use their car for track work or in any sort of extreme situations, they are better off saving their money.

The same brakes are used on the EVO 3 and RVR Series 2 turbo, and they are a lot heavier and have more power than the FTO does, and still does beyond the most powerful FTO on this forum. (in factory form - 6A12 non turbo)

Good pads, fluid changes when scheduled and maintenance of the braking system should mean you can keep factory guise and have decent enough stopping power, and not have to spend a whole heap of cash.
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