Finally got off my arse & pulled the driveshafts out today
Found the best way to pop them out too (gearbox coupling & all)
The driver side one, once the castle nut & hub was disconnected, I got under the car & used a ball joint splitter. Just tapped it in under the cup (gearbox end) and gave it a swift wack.
Out she popped & I had the oil drain bucket under it ready to catch the fallout. What did I catch?.... another wad of watery Royal Purple
Then the second shaft posed more of a problem to get out, the casting / webbing of the gearbox doesn't allow any room to pop the ball joint splitter in to wack the joint out.
So after 2 beers & 3 smokes, I came up with an idea.... wack it out from the drivers side!

Nothing you can't do with an old curtain rod!
Strangely enough, the CV joints were not too bad, the inner joints however were a different story. I had over a full mm of playin the drivers side joint, about 3/4 of a mm in the passenger.
I'll do the CV's anyway (being the perfect opportunity while the shafts are out) but yeah, inner joints need doing badly. Would certainly explain the shuddering & clanging I get on take off,
especially round a corner, or up a hill.
So Im off to my dodgy asian driveshaft guy tomorrow
If you're interested, he'll do an FTO CV joint for 90 bucks.
Dodgy asian guys business card / magnet / sticker wrote:Sydney Drive Shaft (lol at the missing 's')
David Fang
5/12 Garling Road
Kings Park NSW 2148
9672 4818, 9518 0869, 0416 101 085
And here's a shot of what big horsepower can do.
This is the split pin that goes through the end of the driveshaft.
The torque twist through the shaft has spun the castle nut up tighter
over the split pin
Was a special treat to get off
