Coilover/Brakes Installation

AMACHA · Post by **AMACHA** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:18 pm

Hey guys quick quesiton....

How hard is it to install coilovers i jsut purchased a set of JIC coilovers and i want to do it myself....anyone give me a brief rundown? Also anyone know where i can get cheap rotors and pads i want to do the breaks at the same time!......

If both pads and discs are brand new is it simply just a bolt off bolt on job...

Post by **I8A4RE** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:16 pm

installing them is piss easy, just make sure you get wheel alignment afterwards.

I think bennoz has a DIY in the suspension thread and if not let me know and I'll walk you through it.

AMACHA · Post by **AMACHA** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:17 pm

I8A4RE wrote:installing them is piss easy, just make sure you get wheel alignment afterwards.

I think bennoz has a DIY in the suspension thread and if not let me know and I'll walk you through it.

cool cheers mate! any ideas on the breaks?

Post by **vipfto** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:22 pm

brakes are simple too just remove calipers from hub (no need to remove fluid lines)
remove discs (the caliper holds it in place)
put back as reverse except when it comes to the new pads just push pistons in so it can all fit together

DONT FORGET to pump brake pedal few times before you test and bed them in or no brakes=bad news

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:16 am

DIY for changing struts:
http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=8761

Brakes are easy as vip mentions. 2 long slide bolts to get the calipers off, another 2 x 14mm bolts to take the caliper braket off the hub. Then the rotor will just come free off the hub.

Assembly is reverse. Just remember thou, if your old pads are worn to buggery, you will need to use multigrips to push the caliper pistons back all the way in. In doing so, you'll push a whole bunch of fluid back up to the master cylinder resevior. Take the cap off it & wrap a rag around it in case it overflows.

Post by **I8A4RE** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:05 pm

Better yet, get a syringe ( you can buy them at bunnings now i think if not a chemist) and suck out the fluid to get to the halway mark. Then as ben says use a set of multi grips or a "g" clamp and compress piston in slowly, keeping an eye on the resivour (sp?)

Geez anybody else remember the old ones that you had to turn whislt pushing with a pair of long nose pliers....f**k me they were a pain the ass.

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:08 pm

I8A4RE wrote:Geez anybody else remember the old ones that you had to turn whislt pushing with a pair of long nose pliers....f**k me they were a pain the ass.

Remember?? The rear ones on the FTO you have to do that

Post by **I8A4RE** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:09 pm

Bennoz wrote:
I8A4RE wrote:Geez anybody else remember the old ones that you had to turn whislt pushing with a pair of long nose pliers....f**k me they were a pain the ass.
Remember?? The rear ones on the FTO you have to do that

oh really, damm I have to change mine soon... thanks .

FUUUUUUUUCKCKKKKKKKKK

FTEvolution · Post by **FTEvolution** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:13 pm

Since we are talking about brakes, how good are the factory calipers on the GR? I wouldn't mind replacing my rotors, but do you also need new calipers of going to a slightly larger rotor?

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:23 pm

FTEvolution wrote:Since we are talking about brakes, how good are the factory calipers on the GR? I wouldn't mind replacing my rotors, but do you also need new calipers of going to a slightly larger rotor?

Shithouse. I really hope you don't have GR calipers on your 6A13 monster do you?

I8A4RE wrote:FUUUUUUUUCKCKKKKKKKKK