Braking Problem

Got a problem with your FTO? ask about it here

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Dan25
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Braking Problem

Post by Dan25 »

So when I apply the brakes heavily (emergency stop) I get a serious clunk from the front end, followed by a sort of "spring" decompression noise.This then translates to a very strange feel in the brake pedal, as well as a perceived reduction in braking consistency.

Would this be related to a suspension component?

Also, the "ABS" light doesn't come on, but I don't know whether it's meant to or not?

On a side not, there is a fairly audible ticking coming from the engine bay (not necessarily the engine itself) whenever the clutch is engaged. The frequency of the ticking increases/decreases in correlation with the engine revs. As soon as I press the clutch pedal in, the ticking ceases. Any ideas as to what could be the cause?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm too poor to consult a mechanic right now! Damn parliament not approving scholarships for uni students!
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Bennoz
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Post by Bennoz »

I got $50 on either a shot strut top or ARB for the first noise (unless you are actually engaging the ABS) and $100 on the second being the springs in the clutch plate. Annoying, but not detrimental.
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Dan25
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Post by Dan25 »

Well I was told by Pedder's that my ARB bushes were worn and I bought some 16mm ones, but when they tried to install them they said they didn't fit, although never supplied a reason. I'm thinking that maybe because I've got a facelifted GPX, my ARB is thicker than 16mm?

So with the springs in the clutch plate, is that an indication that the clutch is wearing out, or is it just the result of someone doing a poor job of changing the clutch? Because the clutch is also squeaky...
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Bennoz
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Post by Bennoz »

I was fairly sure all FTO's have a 16mm front swaybar with the exception of the Version R's (which is a 20mm) but I could be wrong.
Post up your chassis number (DE3A-xxxxxx) and I'll check CAPS / ASA for you.

Springs in the clutch plate tell me its the original factory clutch. So yes, it may well be getting a bit long in the tooth.
The squeak can come from 2 places, either the contact point where the slave cylinder piston pushes the actuating arm, or the actual pivot point of the actuating arm itself.

If its the slave cylinder piston, you can push it back & apply some grease yourself.
If its the pivot point of the arm, you'll need to wait till the box comes out to lube it with anything more than WD40.
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Post by Dan25 »

My chassis number is 0300372.

When I saw my mechanic 6 months ago, I believe he said that it was the fulcrum that was squeaking and yeah, he said that it wouldn't be able to be fixed without pulling the box out. But at that point, he said my clutch didn't need replacing...

Although now my gear changes seem to be getting more difficult and less smooth, so maybe it is time to change the clutch? Oh no, more money!

BTW, the car's done 118, 000k's. Could it have survived that long on the factory clutch?

Thanks for the help so far Bennoz. I really appreciate it.
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Post by Bennoz »

No worries ;)

Well, according to the parts database, it has a 16mm swaybar. Part number MR197005. Do yourself a fovour & dont ever go to Pedders lol.
Im willing to lay an even bigger wager on the fact that the Pedders guys have got under the car, looked at how much of a c*ck of a job it is to change the front ARBs, then fed you a c*ck & bull story about how you got the wrong part....
To do the job successfully, you have to drop the whole subframe down a fair bit - just so you can swing a spanner on the mouting bolts.

And yeah, a factory clutch could well have done 118,000 kays. The main indicator for a shot clutch however, is not difficult changes, its slipping.
A difficult / less smooth change tells me that either your gearbox oil needs changing, or you have a worn / fraying selector cable or selector cable bracket.
I'd say it was the box oil. When was it last changed? If ever...
Tis a common fluid change to overlook.
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Storm
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Post by Storm »

If the bolts holding th ebushes on are a bit rounded, the whole subframe needs to come off.

Took me hours to do a simple job because of this :roll:
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Post by Bennoz »

Storm wrote:If the bolts holding th ebushes on are a bit rounded, the whole subframe needs to come off.

Took me hours to do a simple job because of this :roll:
Yeah, but you're not into doing jobs the easy way, the first time are you Bill? :lol:
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Dan25
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Post by Dan25 »

Bennoz, I would say you are spot on about pedders, because each time I tried to find out why the bushes didn't fit, they said the guy who worked on my car wasnt available. Now I regret selling the bushes!
And I have no idea as to when the gear box oil was last changed, but I know it certainly hasn't been done for the past 15000kms. How often is it meant to be done? Because my gear changes have become a lot clunkier lately, but I just thought that my entire gear box was starting to wear out...
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Storm
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Post by Storm »

Bennoz wrote:
Storm wrote:If the bolts holding th ebushes on are a bit rounded, the whole subframe needs to come off.

Took me hours to do a simple job because of this :roll:
Yeah, but you're not into doing jobs the easy way, the first time are you Bill? :lol:
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silverGPX
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Post by silverGPX »

Its just the ABS. Mine does the exact same thing and my light doesnt come on when i try to lock it up either. and i have NO front swaybar/bushes
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