wifes ice- 56k no go *UPDATED*

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ftokiwi
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wifes ice- 56k no go *UPDATED*

Post by ftokiwi »

heres the gear-

battery-

Excide gold orbital-

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specs-

● CCA @ 0° F: 770
● CA @ 32° F: 1000
● Reserve Capacity: 95
● Amp Hour @ 20 Hour Rate: 50


Head unit-

Pioneer DEHP80RS-
Audiophile-specification,pips the CDA9835 but not by much.6 channel TA etc etc
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component amp-

Alpine MRV-545
125W x 4 RMS [4Ω @ 14.4V 0.08% THD]
S/N Ratio 96dBA (IHF A Weighted Reference at Rated Power into 4Ω)

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Sub Amp-

E-Audio 3000D
Class D Monoblock Power Amplifier
1000rms at 4ohm with 14.4V < 1% THD
2000rms at 2ohm with 14.4V < 1% THD
3000rms at 1ohm with 14.4V < 1% THD
5000rms at 1ohm with 18V < 10% THD

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Components-

DLS UP6's- more accurate than the alpine type x's but not as warm.
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Subwoofer

Digital Designs
DD9510F
Voice Coil Diameter- 3"
Magnet Weight- 406 oz
Power Handling RMS/Peak- 1500/6000
Suspension- 80 mm
2+2 ohm

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Car will run 0AWG(50mm^2) or 00AWG(70mm^2) depending on room.
components will run active. no rear fill- will remove the rear speakers to allow airflow into the cabin. anyway there will be plenty of power up front. not sure what kind of box i'll go with. I was wanting to build an ABC box but i doubt theres enough room in the boot. will probably go with a 1.5cu ft box. 25mm MDF with a 6' aero port. tuned to 30hz. sound deadening on doors/ boot and roof . sub will be run @1ohm. car will be setup primarily for SQ but with a bit of tuning should go 140db+....

will post pics on install etc
Last edited by ftokiwi on Sat May 17, 2008 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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oodLes
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Post by oodLes »

Holy sh*t, thats some pro gear you have there...

A mate has one of those amps, it runs VERY hot so watch where you mount it, and how much was the headunit, it looks AWESOME
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ftokiwi
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Post by ftokiwi »

thanks :)
its taken me 3 odd years of trading up to get the system you see.

the p80rs has a rrp of $999NZD ($820-825AUD) but can be brought new for $699NZD ($575-580AUD) from retailers running sales. its not a bling bling hu but looks really classy and almost old school. personallly i love it.

the install im going for is a stealth setup-ie from the outside you'll have no idea whats running inside and even from the inside you wont know unless the system is turned up
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harry90
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Post by harry90 »

That looks sweet... :D hope to see some pics after the install is done.
[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1071/avatarxj1.jpg[/img][/url]
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MissxFTO
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Post by MissxFTO »

Nice choice with DD :)
[img]http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/923/msf70lz5.jpg[/img]
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msbchi
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Isolator

Post by msbchi »

All you need now is my dual battery isolator so you can keep your main battery in the engine bay and mount the second one in the boot for the amps. The flow is also reversable as well so you never have to worry about a flat battery. Comes with all the wiring cable cut to length for the FTO as well as fuses distribution blocks and any thing else you might need. Good idea to leave out the 6x9s in the parcel shelf. I amped up mine but find them to overpowering, especially in a small coupe.
, I'll probably disconnect them from the amp and just run them from the head, but have to check that they can take that much power
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ftokiwi
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Post by ftokiwi »

so onto the project. big thank yous to my bro. without his help i wouldnt have finished this.

this took us near on 3 days to complete.

first things first- upgrade the battery.... from

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to

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a 70mm(00 gauge awg) earth to up with the system

we striped the car down and started sound deadening everything with dynamatt extreme

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with the boot and the door outers we used the sound deadening used by panelbeaters

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striped the doors down-

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dynamatt on the inner

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and the panel beaters stuff on the outer (dls components installed)

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getting the hu in- i love the fto's- stacks of room behind the hu to run your cables

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planning layout for the amps- we went to the tyre well because of the size of the amps and the lack of space in the fto. have added the can puncture repair kit to the car in case of a flat

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and the final layout

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the mighty DD

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and the box complete with a false wall to keep things tidy(box still to be pushed back into the car) added a fire extinguisher for safety. the box was built from 25mm mdf ported and tuned to 35Hz

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voltage at the hu-

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and even with 70mm to the amp there is a little voltdrop( might have been caused by bass note)

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will add more photos for the hu and doors in the next day or so. the systems runs well though it still needs some tuning. what you see is only 10% of what was done. we sound deadened
everything. put foam behind the license plate- upgraded the feed to the hu to 8 gauge awg etc etc etc. the extra work really paid off though- there are virtually no rattles in the car.

both of us estimate the system at 135-140db+-(both been in comps and held a new zealand spl record last year so its an educated guess(nz db drags), not a number we thought up) not bad for a single 10 tuned so low. will throw it on an rta and spl mic in the near future.

the best AND worst part of this system is- its a sleeper.... theres nothing about the car that lets you know what kind of system its running. no one will ever know and i doubt it will ever be entered in any comps. even sitting in the car you have no idea until you turn it up.

Image

will add a few more pics soon

:D
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oodLes
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Post by oodLes »

Good job man, every good job. Well done.
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harry90
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Post by harry90 »

Love it. Looks great. One thing though, is the box meant to be that big, for a small ( in comparison to box) sub ?
[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1071/avatarxj1.jpg[/img][/url]
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ftokiwi
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Post by ftokiwi »

harry90 wrote:Love it. Looks great. One thing though, is the box meant to be that big, for a small ( in comparison to box) sub ?
normally- (like most) i prefer a small box but with subs i always give them as much as i can.having said that the box you see still needed to be pushed back a little.also, we built a false wall to make the whole thing look tidy.
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rock_it
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Post by rock_it »

So by looking at the photo, it is a sealed box ??? Or does it have a port ???
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ftokiwi
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Post by ftokiwi »

its ported and tuned around 35hz.the port fires out the side of the box just above the rear strut so we didnt load the port up by having it fire into a wall. because we went to a 6' port we needed a long box to get the length we needed to get the tuning right.
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rock_it
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Post by rock_it »

Yeah, I thought with the size of the box that it would have been ported ...
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YellowFTO
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Post by YellowFTO »

That kit is awesome, some real nice stuff there 8) 8)
Glad to see the Dynamat going in as well, the fto is really bad for rattles.

Going to be put my system in soon, got 4 weeks off work next month to do it, i hope thats enough time as im not the fastest installer :roll:
I will take photos and post them up when im done.
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MissxFTO
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Post by MissxFTO »

tidy :)
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nvdfto
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Post by nvdfto »

nice n tidy way to do it. LOVE the layout.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00149.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00150.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00151.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00152.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00153.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x32/ ... C00154.jpg

that was my last big project i done for 2007 just before christmas for a mates dad. Total system set him back $3000 bucks.
time spent 1 month 2 days a week. hardest/time consuming is the boot installation. a lot of measurements.
but it all paid out at the end.
Let the tunes decide
.:[Bosch Australia Automotive Department]:.
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Richy
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Post by Richy »

links don't work... :(
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ft04me
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Post by ft04me »

Hey just a question..where did u buy the sound deadning?
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