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Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 6:41 pm
by Bennoz
If its only noisy from the start, then the first thing I would do is an engine flush with your next oil change. You can buy engine flush type products from local auto stores.

If it continues, then yeah, look at replacing them.

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:23 am
by tokieda1202
Then what type of engine oil do you think I should use? 10Ww40? any specific brand I should go to?

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:56 am
by vipfto
^thats fine I use magnetec now but any reputable brand will be fine
just make sure you use flush first like nulon or wynns product etc

by the way do you have gr or gpx?

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:43 am
by I8A4RE
Fully synthetic oils are going to make it noisey too because they are so thin. I would use a semi synthetic 10w-40.

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:43 pm
by tokieda1202
vipfto wrote:^thats fine I use magnetec now but any reputable brand will be fine
just make sure you use flush first like nulon or wynns product etc

by the way do you have gr or gpx?
Thanks for the info guys, I will be using the Nulon E20 mentioned and 10w40 oil. btw mine is a 1996 GR. Wanted a GPX but too desperate to get a FTO!! :D[/quote]

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:56 am
by Bennoz
Hey guys, I recently reconditioned the tappets in the 6A13, they are the same as the GR.

Here a quick how to - using the instructions in the beginning of this DIY to remove them.

The main reason they get noisy is because they gunk up with burnt on oil sludge on the inside. So rather than having to fork out to replace the whole lot, you can individually reco each tappet.

Notice how when you attempt to depress the tip, its almost impossible? Ie all but seized up..

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As opposed to a new tappet which depresses quite easily:

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First up, drop it in a degreasing type solutions & soak it for a minute. I used Nulon engine flush.

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Then pop the tappet in your vice like so. I used some rag on either end of the tappet to avoid scoring the ends. Also try & get the tappet positioned so that the small oil gallery hole is facing upwards. This way you can see the crap coimg out of it.

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Now with the vice, you need to use a bit of a technique. You need to pretend you are tapping a thread. You wind the vice on a little bit & tip will begin to depress a little bit - then unwind the vice to relase the pressure. Then wind the vice in a little further the next time, then release again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times until on the last time you fully depress the tip. You will feel when its fully depressed, you will be unable to wind the vice any further.

Whilst this is happening, note the brown sludgey oil that coming from the oil gallery in the tappet. Each time you wind the vice in, you are scraping burnt on oil off the inner diametre of the tappet - the section where the tip is supposed to slide in & out of easily.

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Once done, drop the tappet in your degreaser solution again. Now check & depress the tip with your finger. You'll find it springs in & out with great ease :)

Before you reinsert the tappet back into the head, ensure you give it a good covering in nice new oil too.

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Now, I'd give you a little video of how nicely smooth & quiet the car is now running, but thanks to one of my very f**king expensive handmade Top Gun leads snapping of in the plug hole, that won't happen till Monday :x

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:02 am
by I8A4RE
Nice write up Ben, how long did the job take, start to finish?

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:50 am
by Bennoz
I only did the front bank & it took maybe an hour? Hour and a half?

To do the lot, you'd be looking at 3 solid hours I'd say (including taking intake manifold off etc to get to the rears.)

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:16 am
by I8A4RE
I have been meaning to do something about mine for a while, but I couldnt afford to buy new ones. I never new you could clean them.....excellent news.

It's weird though I have noticed they are a lot quieter sinced i did a service last month and used mobil one. I have tried a fully-synth before and they went noisey as hell, so im not sure whay's going on lol

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:40 pm
by I8A4RE
f**k this is cheap

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 622154.htm

and thats NZ dollars so it would be like $20 aussie :D

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:26 pm
by -Nighthawk-
Thanks Bennoz, I might actually do this at the FTO DIY day in Vic :)

Any chance you can do a short film of 1 of the tappets to show exactly how it's done right? (5 minutes) That would be great,
cheers

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:42 pm
by -Nighthawk-
Does anyone have a reference on how to do the rear tappets? The link you posted to ftooc seems to be deleted

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:58 pm
by Bennoz
Yeah, I noticed that had gone down.

When I do my rear bank (and get a quick video for you) I'll do a proper DIY on removing the intake etc.

Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:44 pm
by -Nighthawk-
Beautiful, cheers

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:51 am
by Bennoz
Found these guys selling a full set of 24 for $300 :o

http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=169

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:05 am
by I8A4RE
Bennoz wrote:Found these guys selling a full set of 24 for $300 :o

http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=169
Same as the GR?

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 9:05 am
by Bennoz
Yep.

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:11 am
by Dras
I have also looked into cleaning my tappets and I came upon this:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ ... eaning.pdf

Seems to be the Mitsubishi recommended way.

The reason I have not yet done this is, if the tappet is worn out and does not hold pressure then even if it is clean it will still be loud. The only way to pressure test them would be to either put them back in the car or with specialised equipment. For the cost of an aftermarket set, it just doesn't seem to make sense to risk having to do the rear bank twice.

$300 for a set is phenomenal, are there enough people interested for a GB?

Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:20 am
by I8A4RE
I would be but money is just too tight at the moment

Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:06 am
by Dras
Does anyone know if the MD998782 lifter removal tool (http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=188) is appropriate for the FTO?