FS: Reconditioned Version R manual gearbox with LSD

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 9:06 pm

Hey guys,
I may be selling my gearbox which will be reconditioned once out of the car and then sold (depending if the mechanic keeps it or not).

It may come with driveshafts, not sure, otherwise it has the Version R LSD in it and great for people wanting to convert from auto to manual

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:15 am

what city are you in

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:39 am

I am from canberra but the gearbox will be taken out in Fairfield, Sydney

Post by **dstocks** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:42 am

You have my interest. Starting to think about a manual conversion. Couple of questions:

What are you putting in when you take this one out???

And how much you asking?

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:06 am

what damage has been done for it to require reconditioning. I would be interested as is

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:07 am

would be very handy for parts. Do you have any pics and what is the price you want for it when it has been fixed.

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:13 pm

The gearbox was reconditione before being put into my car. Which was about 10K km ago.

The problem it has is 3rd gear synchro is gone. The only way of putting it in is double clutching on downshift or very slowly and matching rpm on upshift.

To add to that 2nd gear crunches when shifting really fast into it after 1st gear

The reason I am saying it will be reconditioned is that it all came with a warranty so it SHOULD be reconditioned and then I can keep it. Price wise I am not sure what I want, I know the mechanic taking it out wants it and he may be swapping it for another gearbox I have in mind. But it depends what works out best for me pricewise (ie, swap it for another gearbox, or sell it and buy the other gearbox).

Nothing is certain yet as I am not sure if the other gearbox fits. At this stage the mechanic will check it out while my gearbox is out being reconditioned and let me know the cost of custom driveshafts, bell housings, mounts, clutch and so on.

At this stage I guess just make offers (both for reconditioned and not) and when the mechanic lets me know I will let you guys know.

Also, will be for sale an Exedy Heavy duty clutch which also was used for 10,000K and is in perfect condition. Great clutch, heaps of grip and not too heavy either. Once you get used to it, it feels stock

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:00 am

Sounds like it has had hard life. I looked in to the prices for getting custom made parts for the FTO Box after i damaged 5th Gear. Was looking at over 10 Grand for Custom dogbox. Would be interested as to what you get to replace it.

I have had my Box open a couple of times. Once i put stronger driveshafts in I think i could need a few spare gearbox parts I would only want to get it for spare parts. I already have a half cut on order and have lined up another box at a reasonable price.

Would love to see some pics of the custom parts when you get them done. Have you got any pics of the box, and do you have the workshops name and phone number so they could be contacted about the gearbox, would be good to speak to them and hear what condition the rest of the gears are in.

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:48 am

The gearbox to be honest was always fine, besides the crunching into 2nd, but I eventually put that down to the ratio's being so far apart that the synchro's couldn't slow the gears down enough. It would only happen at 8000rpm doing it really fast.

3rd gear was weird how it went. At the moment I have a friends wheels at the front and they have falken ZE-326 tyres. The worst gripping tyres known to man. And on a rainy day I was trying to spin them into 3rd, and after that 3rd went when I tried to get it quickly from 2nd to 3rd while the wheels were spinning.

I saw the gearbox before it was put into my car and it looked good, it was acid cleaned, and looked new, with all new "button" things that close it up etc

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:17 am

I often change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd and so on at above 8000 rpm at 20 lb boost. I must admit that since i put the solid centre aluminium flywheel in that the gear changes feel much smoother at high RPM under high boost then they did with the flexplate style of flywheel.

I was thinking that the box could have had a hard life before you got it, if it was from a GP version R then it would have come from a wreck. Don't think they would be chopping up a good version R for a half cut they are still fetching good money at auction.

Let us know how much you want for it as is. I only want it for parts when i break one of mine.

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 4:08 am

The gearbox itself would be from a GPX, just with a Version R LSD.

Does it matter if it had a hard life before reconditioning? I thought the hole point of reconditioning it is to make it "like new"?

Do you want to give me a ballpark figure of what you are willing to pay? Do you want the LSD as well?

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:24 pm

spetz wrote: Does it matter if it had a hard life before reconditioning? I thought the hole point of reconditioning it is to make it "like new"?

To make a box like new would require replacing all the parts, extremely expensive. They would have opened it up checked for visiable signs of wear, checked all the clearences, if it is all OK they will put it back togeather and calll it a recon. If the box came in with a problem they would possibly replaced one or two parts maybe a few more and could use second hand parts if they have them in there broken box collection. It is mostly labour as stripping a gearbox down and checking all the clearences takes up a bit of time. 10000ks on a performance car box, you will be struggling to get them to warranty it. Good luck i hope they do then you will be able to get a better price.

spetz wrote:Do you want to give me a ballpark figure of what you are willing to pay? Do you want the LSD as well?

It is broken it is not worth anymore than a couple of hundred bucks to some one who needs the parts.
I recently lined up good low k working Box with diff for 700 shipped.
Put a price on it, if i make an offer it won,t be a high one

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:41 pm

I think the mechanic will offer more for the box than that.
Considering finding one isn't too easy, especially one with an LSD.

But as far as $700 or there abouts goes then it's a definite no, as I am sure the mechanic would at the least swap me my gearbox for the other one I want which is worth a lot more than that anyway.

It is still under warranty, as I had the 2nd gear crunching from day 1, and even though this was over a year ago I let him know about it and he knows I just couldn't drop the car in.
In the end of the day, he is swapping my engine for another fully reconditioned, balanced etc engine for free...

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:40 pm

thats ok best to give it back to the mechanic

I already have got a good one for $700 shipped

I would never pay $700 for a broken one, i was thinking about $200

I suggest you get it fixed first under warranty as i don't think you will get what you want for it when it is has a problem with it. Fixed with a LSD in it you should be able to get over a grand for it.

Remember it is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it.

Best of luck mate. I was only hoping to pick up some more spare parts to put in the shed if i need them in the future. So i was never going to offer much if i made an offer.

Hope your mechanic sorts it all out for u

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:40 pm

Yeah I mean, if he keeps it, all good
If I keep it, he'll fix it

I think at this stage it is most valuable to someone who wants to do a manual conversion

dannyboyau · Post by **dannyboyau** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:55 am

for a manual conversion you will need the pedals, gear stick, cables, shifter assembly, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, pipe and hose between them, manual dash, change the wiring harness to suit, gearbox, driveshafts, flywheel and clutch. there is more to it then just a gearbox, driveshafts and clutch. Probably best to get a half cut for a manual conversion.

Do you have all the other parts too?

If i was you i would sell the LSD seperatly that is worth almost as much as the manual box. Wreckers are asking 750 - 1500 for Manual boxes. Sell it privatly and you usually get less unless some one has to have one because they blown theres. If you are prepared to wait you will get a reasonable price.

BuCkEt · Post by **BuCkEt** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:23 am

You don't need to change the drive shafts whilst doing a manual conversion.

You will need to fiddle with the CV Cups however.
I've just had mine converted, here's what Giles at Japco had to say about it. (He's an awesome FTO knowledge bank)

======================================
Hi Peter,

I've done over 100 conversions now. You will need:

Clutch pedal assembly
Brake pedal assembly
gear selector
selector cables
gaitor
gear knob
Gearbox
gearbox mount
master cylinder and pipes inc.slave cylinder and all brackets
Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate etc.
Rev counter
All nuts, bolts. clips etc
Plug that goes onto the reverse sensor with a bit of loom.

You don't need the driveshafts unless you have a 5speed tiptronic box but you do need the green CV cups that go into the manual gearbox as there are 4 different types and your tip ones might not fit. What we do is when the manual box is fitted we send our tiptronic green cups back to the gearbox supplier to put back on his driveshafts. If he won't do that then you will need the original manual box driveshafts.

Its all a very straight forward fit with the only wiring that needs to be done being on the original gearbox loom (large black plug). you will need to join the two bigger wires (black with yellow stripe and black with red stripe) together and also you will need to wire in the reverse sensor to the red with blue stripe and black with yellow stripe (small wires), these are positioned next to each other.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Giles
===============================

Oh and you don't have to change the dash to a manual cluster.....you can merely disable the lights that are behind the "P N 1 2 3 4" lights. Then just get a hold of some aftermarket dials for a manual and presto!!

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:54 pm

How good is this Giles from Japco with FTO's?
Do you have a contact number??

Regardless I should be finding out more info tomorrow, and I will post back to let everyone know what is happening

BuCkEt · Post by **BuCkEt** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:42 pm

spetz wrote:How good is this Giles from Japco with FTO's?
Do you have a contact number??

Regardless I should be finding out more info tomorrow, and I will post back to let everyone know what is happening

Sure there's a contact number....but I hope you're ready for a big bill 'cos Japco is in the UK.

I'm also not sure what his knowledge is like in regards to the internal components of the 6A12. Go join up the FTOOC and start posting on there, they have a bigger FTO aftermarket than we do and a few of them are running nutty setups.

spetz · Post by **spetz** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 3:35 pm

Nutty NA setups?
UK huh... well damn!