So you want a hairdryer on your FTO? Or do you already have a hairdryer in it? This is the section for it. All other big power projects & forced induction goes here too.
gr_fto_reborn wrote:In terms of engine wireing how are you going to go about this mate. There is 2 of us doing these conversions in the UK both of us have the early GR which had a 3pin ECU. so we are going to be splicing the VR4 loom into the FTO one and using the VR4 ECU. Was wondering if you have had to do the same and if so do you know how?
Dunno yet mate, not got to that stage yet, although Im sure I will later this week. Will certainly let you know how I go.
The aim of this thread is to provide everyone with as much info as possible who is going to attempt this themselves
nvr2low wrote: f*** that won't help me much as I got a mive ecu guys any help will be good bennoz
What? your gonna need to change that too mate. Your not going to be able to run a mivec ecu on 6a13tt
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
I have heard that there are a few differences. and a four pin GR loom is pretty much a plug and play with the VR4 engine and ECU! If anyone has one. how much you recon to ship to the UK!
RichardB wrote:looking good I could have told you all the gearbox info you may want to run a Galant V6-24V Gearbox like me, its longer ratios and bolts straight up
Im now starting to look at converting an AWD Galant box to FWD. As the Galant box will take EVO gearsets.... so I should be able to make a FWD Dog Box
did you let the tailshaft free spin or did you remove the transfer case and weld up the VC unit?
did you use fto shafts after? or did you use vr4 shafts?
if you used fto shafts did they just slide in?
if you used vr4 shafts did the CVs fit the fto hubs?
RichardB wrote:looking good I could have told you all the gearbox info you may want to run a Galant V6-24V Gearbox like me, its longer ratios and bolts straight up
Im now starting to look at converting an AWD Galant box to FWD. As the Galant box will take EVO gearsets.... so I should be able to make a FWD Dog Box
did you let the tailshaft free spin or did you remove the transfer case and weld up the VC unit?
did you use fto shafts after? or did you use vr4 shafts?
if you used fto shafts did they just slide in?
if you used vr4 shafts did the CVs fit the fto hubs?
"Im going to start looking at converting...." was the key
I think Im going to have to weld up the VC, for the earlier EVO boxes you can get VC Eliminators that replace the VC but I cant find one for the later boxes.... as for the rest I will tell you when I start
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RichardB wrote:
"Im going to start looking at converting...." was the key
I think Im going to have to weld up the VC, for the earlier EVO boxes you can get VC Eliminators that replace the VC but I cant find one for the later boxes.... as for the rest I will tell you when I start
I thought you would be looking at going awd?
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
Bit of an update. I've not had a chance to do much work on it lately.
Gearbox is now mounted to the motor.
We relocated the front turbo wastegate so that the FTO clutch slave cylinder fits in place. We machined up a longer actuator rod & fabricated a bracket. (Apologies for sh*t pics.)
Currently the looms are being spliced together by the sparky. After that, all we need do is relocate the brake lines on the firewall & she'll fit in.
Bennoz wrote:
Currently the looms are being spliced together by the sparky. After that, all we need do is relocate the brake lines on the firewall & she'll fit in.
Was your FTO a GR with a 3pin loom. I am very intersted in what your sparkie is doing as i need to splice my loom as does another meber in the uk. Could you get him to give us info on exactly what he has chopped in and where? It would be greatly appreciated!
holy smoking batman!!!
what a project!
long time no see benoz! and now i see you are going all out with your car!!!
cant wait to give u a drag once its done!
past ride : FTO gpx with lots of bling bling
Current ride: EVO 8 with the MOST CARBON IN AUSTRALIA....206KW AT ALL WHEELS
Ben where did you get your rear engine mount rebuilt? and how much?
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
Guys name is Pete Moxham, is my Mini mechanic who now does Suzukis as well. The mount was actually for a GTI Swift, with the mounting plate cut off the FTO mount & welded on. Was $180 (possibly a mates rate too....)
Couple of issues thou, whoever it was that said the rear turbo will fit by simply moving the brake / air con / power steering lines needs to be shot. Even with them out of the way, it still hits both the firewall and the steering rack. So note; for those of you doing this, you will need to modify the rear manifold. In my case, Im fabricating a completely new one, using the head mating face of the old one. Will pop some pics up when its done. Im not feeling the need to bash the firewall. Time to move all the lines & bash the firewall equated to about 8 hours, time to make up a new manifold is 4 hours. So if you're paying labour, you do the math.
With the radiator / front turbo setup, we are actually going to put the radiator in its original place, with extremely slimline fans in place of the standard fans. Apparently we can get them with a total thickness of 13mm. (Dont ask me where im getting them from, I dont know yet.)
Pics from today.
Where lower pipe hits steering rack:
Underside of turbo & all the lines that would need to be moved if you went that way:
Hey buddy looking good. If your having to modify the madifolds etc, why not just go single turbo?
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
nvr2low wrote: hey ben just a suggestion will the turbo and everything fit if you made the manifold shorter and had the turbo sitting closer to the motor man
Thats the plan, also needs to be lower too.
I8AFRE wrote:Hey buddy looking good. If your having to modify the madifolds etc, why not just go single turbo?
Cost of turbo, cost of stand alone ECU, drive-ablility, lag etc.
I8AFRE wrote:Hey buddy looking good. If your having to modify the madifolds etc, why not just go single turbo?
Cost of turbo, cost of stand alone ECU, drive-ablility, lag etc.
Ring around wreckers and such and see what you can pick up.
maybe even see if some idiot wrapped an XR6T around a pole or something leaving the turbo intact..GT40 POWAHH!
so richard you pushd the firewall in a little bit man and made new pipes that come off the turbo 2 the exhaust man. Does your motor sit a little further bak
I could have told you all the gearbox info 
