Work Log - Max The Turk - Manual conversion

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:33 pm

jonowong wrote:hey max i was wondering how much it cost in total

that really depends on tools in the garage.
I had no tool set before starting this job.
Had to buy full socket set 1/2" with ratchet bar, extension, etc..., $150
Also need longer socket bar $50, some of the bolts are really tight, especially driveshaft and hub bolts. Dont go cheap with tools. Kincrome or Sidcrome, nothing less, otherwise they keep breaking.
Also need torque wrench, again Kincrome, $100
Drill head and adaptor, $100
Deep 17 socket, $15
Oils inc transmission and break fluid for clutch, $200
Exedy Clutch kit, $290, but again this was a special deal, normally around $500
I broke one of the 4 bolts that secures the gear stick. For removal, reverse drill bits, $20
Hire g/box $40
Clutch allignment tool $35
Bottle jack $30
Garage jack $40
Axle stands x 2 $40
Add another $200 for waste

Conversion set I scored inc everything was under $500, but this was once off deal I guess. I had to remove the g/box myself also.

Did I forgot anything?

All up $1800 I think, and I have auto box and other bits to sell. Not too bad hey.

I have asked for few quotes to do this work. It was all same around $3k, labour only, not inc oils or any missing/not working parts.

If you have the correct tools it will be very cheap.

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:21 pm

thats pretty good, i want to do this too, my auto box needs to be resealed and i cbf so i was thinking of going manual

i don't have tools either only a socket set...

i think ill drop by ben's place

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:32 pm

jonowong wrote:thats pretty good, i want to do this too, my auto box needs to be resealed and i cbf so i was thinking of going manual

i don't have tools either only a socket set...

i think ill drop by ben's place

Good luck, have a go at it.
You really need your own tools though, quality tools.
Its not a job that can be done by borrowing.
Let me know if you have any questions, here to help

martgpx · Post by **martgpx** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:36 am

Well Done Max!!!!!

Was worth all that effort and hard work then??
Best mod you can do in my opinion

Welcome to the 'exclusive DIY manual club'

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:20 am

Finally had a chance to take the car to a long drive.
Went to Ballarat last night, shooting again, not too good, only 7 confirmed, 2 possible hits but the game run away

Anyways, bit of a highway driving,
I just cant believe the difference between auto and tip,
Its just some other freaky car now!
Accelerates heaps better, gear ratio is more enjoyable, big difference at the low rpms,
I think its the gear ratio makes the things more enjoyable, 5spd man compared to 4spd auto.
I was hated 4th gear in auto. Man 4th is flying, 5th has enough torque especially over 100kms, (till the legal limit 110kms)

Also, the engine hangs on to the rpm during the gear changes, which assists very smooth gear changes.
I have driven some cars where the rpm drops instantly and sharply as soon as pressure reduced at the gas pedal.
FTO is bit different, rpm kinda stays same for a tiny second, then drops at a much slower ratio

I am in love with my FTO again

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:39 pm

Here is how to get a speaker cable into the door.

Take off the door panel first. Keep the window up.
Here is where the main cables and the plastic cover housing. Need to feed the speaker cable through it from the bottom.

Take off the bottom part of the plastic cover first, maybe use screw driver to push out.

Then the top part, definitely need screw driver here,

Here is the thickest speaker cable I could found,

Start feeding the cable from the bottom first. Before feeding apply some detergent or KY jelly to lubricate. Keep pushing through and guide the cable in the plastic housing with your fingers constantly, while pushing through with other hand

Here is the cable come out

You can now put the remaining cable in to the door and close the bottom part of the plastic housing now. Before closing put the window down and make sure no tangles and there is enough cable left in there.

You need to feed the other end of the cable into the car now.
For the passenger side you need to take off the glovebox, for the driver side the panel under the steering wheel.
You will see there is a white plastic holder bit that all the cables go through the middle of it. There is still just enough space there to get your speaker cable out. It will be tight though, so feed a bit of straight metal with hook end first .

Somehow attach that cable to the hook and pull everything into the car. Be careful not to damage any other cable.
Close the top of the plastic hosing.
All done