Work Log - Max The Turk - Manual conversion

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:04 pm

Are those 7 bolts used for holding the tip driveplate is the same for securing the man flywheel?
It seems to me that flywheel is thicker than the drive plate. Do I need to get new bolts?

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:12 pm

Yep thats the ones. You shouldnt have to get longer ones, the main thing there is making sure you torque them up to the correct setting when you reassemble.

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:18 pm

Bennoz wrote:Yep thats the ones. You shouldnt have to get longer ones, the main thing there is making sure you torque them up to the correct setting when you reassemble.

Great!
98nm for the bolts correct torque
Only need to source the flywheel then

What about the 6 bolts that connect the clutch to the flywheel?
These bolts comes with clutch/clutch kit?

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:30 pm

I dont think so... You might have to buy those. They are a more generic bolt than the flywheel ones. You could try panelhouse for both the flywheel & bolts I spose...

Just remember when doing up the pressure plate bolts, always do them up in a star shaped pattern by hand to avoid distorting the clutch plate itself. And do you have a plate alignment tool?

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:44 pm

Bennoz wrote:I dont think so... You might have to buy those. They are a more generic bolt than the flywheel ones. You could try panelhouse for both the flywheel & bolts I spose...

Already sent an enquiry to panelhouse.
I might ask Mitsu as well for the cost of the brand new flywheel and the bolts, I think using 2nd hand one avoids the warranty of the new clutch.
Also, searching for possible sources for lightened flywheel, but havent found anywhere yet.

Bennoz wrote:Just remember when doing up the pressure plate bolts, always do them up in a star shaped pattern by hand to avoid distorting the clutch plate itself. And do you have a plate alignment tool?

Bought the Kincrome universal clutch alignment tool, not sure how to use it yet,

I am sure it will sink in once I got the remaining parts

martgpx · Post by **martgpx** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:51 pm

Here's a lightened flywheel place!!

http://www.freakyparts.co.uk/

I know this guy and he lives not far from me. It's probably a bit far far (like the other side of the planet) but maybe if you really want one and are prepared to pay for shipping, then........

The flywheel bolts are the same btw. My new clutch IIRC came with the bolts to fix to the flywheel. I can't remember the size now but they are nothing 'special' as Bennoz said. You should be able to get them easily

As for lining the clutch I used a Lazer Clutch Aligner (not an actual laser, just a brand!!) It came with instructions but I have used them before on other cars.

You will see how it works when you get all the other bits etc

EDIT post a pic of your alignment tool an I'll try and explain which bits go where

Looks like you are making good progress mate. I remember doing the same things and I feel your pain!!

Drop me a line if you need any help

thefreak · Post by **thefreak** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:24 pm

Hi guys

I'm Stewart, from over in the UK. I run Freakyparts and a committee member and events organiser of the OC.
I've done a lot of work developing a lightened flywheel for the FTO and finally sorted out one that works really well.
It's a machined aluminium one with a stainless steel interchangable face. to keep the costs down we reuse the existing starter ring, so I usually sell on an exchange basis with a deposit to ensure the old one is returned.
Our flywheel also reuses the existing back plate with the 7 bolts securing it to the crank, but does come with new bolts to fix the backplate to the flywheel, and new ones to secure the pressure plate to the other side of the flywheel. I know the clutches and pressure plates which are sold over here dont usually come with the fixing bolts as they're not usually sold for conversions, rather standard replacments so you might need to get some of those bolts too.
If you were interested in a lightened one, I could sort out a price for you, and could take into account you wont really want to send your old one back. The usual price I sell them for is Â£389 + shipping + the Â£100 refundable deposit, which makes Â£489 until I get the old one back.
The other option would be to ship it without the starter ring and you could transfer it over from yours, it's just shrunk on, so it just needs the oem one whacking in the oven for about 10 minutes and the new one in the freezer for a while, once heated the old one will tap off, then heat it back up again and drop it on the chilled new one.

Any more questions, feel free to ask

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:54 pm

LOL Stu... first post here & you're already whoring parts!

I'd love to get hold of one, biggest issue thou is freight. Not to mention our cruddy exchange rate. To get something of that weight out here (and back again for exchange) would cost a bomb. Last time I brought a set of Camskill disc rotors over it cost me nearly 60 quid & they'd weigh less than a flywheel.... multiply that by 2 for a return trip & that works out to be almost $350 Aus dollars.

If you wanted to sell something of that size here, your best bet would be to talk designs & work with some of our some of our local manufacturers. I can provide details of machine shops you could work with & sell bits under your banner.

Last time we went down this road with a local supplier, we were able to come up with an alu unit that worked out to be about $800 Aus. Issue was filling the min buy of 10 units...

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:00 am

Thanks for all the info Stewart.
Yeah, as ben said postage cost and exchange rate are the real killers, plus for me, I dont have a flywheel at all.

even $800 seems to be a lot of money. I wonder the cost of the second hand standard flywheel. tbh, I was expecting somethingl like $50-$100 max

I wonder the actual gain though, is it really noticable, any figures?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 7:40 am

mxysxy wrote:Thanks for all the info Stewart.
Yeah, as ben said postage cost and exchange rate are the real killers, plus for me, I dont have a flywheel at all.

even $800 seems to be a lot of money. I wonder the cost of the second hand standard flywheel. tbh, I was expecting somethingl like $50-$100 max

I wonder the actual gain though, is it really noticable, any figures?

overall for your car...I wouldn't be too worried about it.

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 4:31 pm

off to QLD/Noosa tonight,
wont have any work done till next tuesday,

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 4:36 pm

Sourced the flywheel from PanelHouse, $125
Bit more then my expectation but have to do it
They will machine it as well

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 10:31 pm

Thats a pretty damn good price....

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:32 am

Bennoz wrote:Thats a pretty damn good price....

hell yeah...PHouse is in QLD ...go pick it up mate

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:58 am

khunjeng wrote:
Bennoz wrote:Thats a pretty damn good price....
hell yeah...PHouse is in QLD ...go pick it up mate

how rude!!!

ooooooo the irony!!!

Post by **Bennoz** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:53 am

jonowong wrote:
khunjeng wrote:
Bennoz wrote:Thats a pretty damn good price....
hell yeah...PHouse is in QLD ...go pick it up mate
how rude!!!

ooooooo the irony!!!

*shakes head*

Coppin' orders from a Mexican! lol Im gonna go buy a lottery ticket

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:42 am

Had great time in QLD,
Noosa was great as usual, I kept spotting a face lift silver fto.
Also did a day of sailing,
Gf sister got married the next day.

Come back with some goodies

Flywheel from PanelHouse, inc the required bolts = $125 + $40 machining
Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Kit from ABS with special discount = $240, quoted $560 at Autobarn

I was going to get the sports organic clutch which was $320, which quoted $650 earlier, but seeing that I didnt get a lightened flywheel, couldnt see any reasoning for putting a sports clutch.

Will drill the firewall Wed, and put the clutch in on the weekend

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:29 pm

Just combining threads here now that the blockage is cleared

mxysxy wrote:Havent done much last week,
It was just too hot in Melbourne, therefore in my garage,
Did bit more last night, drilled the firewall for the clutch pedal

Drilling was a big challenge, took a long time to finish mostly due to the inadequete tools
Also, remember that you only have one chance,
Everything checked 3 times and then I just had a go at it.
Put a wood block between the firewall and engine/pipes
Initially, I tried to be cheap, bought a set of hole saw for $9.95, 12 blades which you only use the 38mm one anyways, it went blind in about 30 secs.
then I tired to be even more cheaper and bought the same set again, and tried to go slower this time, not much pressure applied.
It took about 2 mins this time to go blind.
What an idiot!!!
Had enough!!! back to Bunnings, bought the hole saw 38mm for $30 + f**king adaptor $45,
Latest tools did the job well in about 10 mins, all done.
One lesson learned well with all these experience is that you need the corrent, quality tools.

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:31 pm

mxysxy wrote:I managed to put the pedals in this morning,

I made a water proof gasket for the master, from the inner plastic lining of the car

However, got couple of questions;
Q1: The brake booster doesnt seem to be flash covering the firewall. Is this normal?
Refer to below photos, there is about 3-5mm gap between the firewall and brake booster

Q2: I cant figure out where to screw the clutch hydrolic piping, refer to below photo outlined in red

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:32 pm

Should be able to get on of those stands that have wheels. They arew the best for rolling g/boxes around on. Might have to visit a tool shop for that.

Man... once you got the box on, the hard work is all done! Its just fiddly little stuff after that.

Q1 - That gap is normal
Q2 - That should bolt onto the bulkhead just next to where the heater water line runs into the cabin. You may not have the hole, so it might be a drill job.