The Suspension Thread

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 1:08 pm

Gholdwayne wrote:ok sweet, ill go for whiteline / cusco..

because i care for this car and i want quality

true.. depends how you look at it though .. you could get the cheaper strut braces & then spend the money you saved on something else like upgrading brakes as well or something .. for the performance difference it makes between the cheapies & whiteline / cusco it might be the better option..

elusi0n · Post by **elusi0n** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:47 pm

I just got my 28 Point safety check from Pedders and this is what i need:

Tie Rod Ends - Both Boots Torn

Sway Bar Bushes - Link Pins worn out Front & Back + D Bushes (Links)

C.V. Joints - CV Boots Torn Both sides

Bump Stops - Broken Back & Front

Found out Links were Drop Links, so all good now. Gonna get the parts from Camskill

AJ · Post by AJ » Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:55 pm

Bennoz wrote:Hey mate, my recommendation for a hot street setup would be the following:

Shocks - 4 x KYB Gas
Part numbers; Front L: 334154 Front R: 334155 Rears: 341140
Approx $440

Ok, front bushes are as follows, I would replace all 3 types with the below listed Superflex polyurethane type:

SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing

Very common for it to go - stock unit is a one peice rubber unit with steel sleeve. Is replaced by 2 of the part numbers mentioned above with new sleeve.

SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing

If front control arm bushes are done - this one must be done using the same density material. Available in both stock size & positive castor type. The superflex type only give 0.5 degrees positive castor. Where as the Whiteline ones give 1.0 degrees. Part number KCA317A

Note - you will have to get these done at a workshop as the factory rubbers are press fit & you need a 10 tonne press to get them off, so factor in some labour cost.

SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (16mm)

Places to Purchase:
Bursons Automotive - http://www.burson.com.au/allstores/Stor ... th%20Wales
Fulcrum - http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/superpro.html

Your crunchy noise is your front droplinks. Best (& cheapest) way to get them is through Camskill in the UK:
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p151

Thanks to Aza and Craig I'm now torn between this set up and coilovers. Lets say I go with coilovers, do I still need all this stuff too (obviously excluding the KYB gas shocks). As I'm going to be buying the bits 1 or 2 at a time I thought I'd decide on coilovers or gas shocks at the end.

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:31 am

AJ wrote:
Bennoz wrote:Hey mate, my recommendation for a hot street setup would be the following:

Shocks - 4 x KYB Gas
Part numbers; Front L: 334154 Front R: 334155 Rears: 341140
Approx $440

Ok, front bushes are as follows, I would replace all 3 types with the below listed Superflex polyurethane type:

SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing

Very common for it to go - stock unit is a one peice rubber unit with steel sleeve. Is replaced by 2 of the part numbers mentioned above with new sleeve.

SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing

If front control arm bushes are done - this one must be done using the same density material. Available in both stock size & positive castor type. The superflex type only give 0.5 degrees positive castor. Where as the Whiteline ones give 1.0 degrees. Part number KCA317A

Note - you will have to get these done at a workshop as the factory rubbers are press fit & you need a 10 tonne press to get them off, so factor in some labour cost.

SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (16mm)

Places to Purchase:
Bursons Automotive - http://www.burson.com.au/allstores/Stor ... th%20Wales
Fulcrum - http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/superpro.html

Your crunchy noise is your front droplinks. Best (& cheapest) way to get them is through Camskill in the UK:
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p151

Thanks to Aza and Craig I'm now torn between this set up and coilovers. Lets say I go with coilovers, do I still need all this stuff too (obviously excluding the KYB gas shocks). As I'm going to be buying the bits 1 or 2 at a time I thought I'd decide on coilovers or gas shocks at the end.

Yeah, the coilevers are a complete replacement for Shocks and springs .. so if you're gonna get them, you won't be needing the KYB struts or the aftermarket springs

Keep in mind that the starting price for the Tein coilover kit is about $1500 or more from memory ..you'd probably be looking at $2500-3000 for that setup, depending on if you do the labour yourself or not.

AJ · Post by AJ » Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:35 am

But I would need all the other bits right? Drop links, bushes etc. And they'd still fit no matter which option I go?

Post by **Bennoz** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:42 am

Yeah, you'd still need all the other bits. Coilovers have a tendancy to exaggerate the wear on normal bushes, so if your bushes are already on their way out, coilovers will make sure they wear out real quick.

Gholdwayne · Post by **Gholdwayne** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:38 pm

Hi guys, sorry for hijacking the topic, but it is a suspension thread after all,

My gpx has a stock height suspension(or at least it looks like it), its my daily driver, and im thinking of lowering the suspension, any recommendations on how low i should get it? and how much would this cost ?

cheers.

AJ · Post by AJ » Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:55 pm

Bennoz wrote:As promised, here this weeks suspension tweak

Am going to try what has been previously unavailable for the FTO - Upgraded front droplinks. The rears are available as a standard Whiteline upgrade, but the fronts have not been previously. You need 2 sets of parts to make it work (pictured), so I'll be testing them tomorrow.

Like a few of you, I run the 18mm adjustable Whiteline swaybar up front & compared to the standard sway, it tends to wear out the front droplinks at a much quicker rate than the norm. The ball joints on the stock units turn to jelly after a few months. Hopefully this will alleviate the issue

As opposed to the standard units:

With a standard set of droplinks costing around $120 (landed in Aus from Camskill - the cheapest available) I reckon this $197 pack is well worthwhile. If this works, Whiteline will add it to their FTO parts listing.

Oh and if you wanna see them tested, I'll be at Wakefield on Thursday

Hey Ben, you said for me to get the ones from camskill, are they much different from these in the end?
Also, would my sway bars need looking at/replacing/upgrading at all?

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:42 am

I've gone back to the standard droplinks as the links on those whiteline ones are rubbish. I just order them in from Camskill (ones in the bottom picture.)

Your swaybar is not something that 'wears out' as such. Its just a peice of spring steel, on rare occasions I've seen them snap, but thats about it.

Having said that, beefing up the front swaybar would help handling substantially. You'd go for the BMF44Z 18mm swaybar from Whiteline. Comes with all bushes & mounting points, only thing it doesn't come with is the droplinks.

AJ · Post by AJ » Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:09 pm

OK, thanks for that Ben. So, he's what I'm going to get for now...
SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing
SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing
SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount to chassis bushing (16mm)
All from either Bursons or Fulcrum

Front droplinks from Camskill

So it doesn't matter if I get all this before deciding to get either the KYB's or coilovers right? I still need this stuff no matter which way I go? If I get Tein top mounts, can they be used with the KYB's? What's best reasonable coilovers?

Cheers!

Jamie · Post by **Jamie** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:31 pm

I have a question for any suspension gurus out there and thought this was good as any place to ask. In regards to the front strut braces where the bar bolts on to the bracket that sits on the strut towers...should this bolt be done up tight enough so the bar has no movement in it at all or should the bar be able to pivot to load up the inside strut durring cornering.

The reasson I ask is the last time I had suspension and steering adjusted I noticed later on that the bolts had been loosened off. Any sugestions?

Post by **vipfto** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:19 pm

Jamie wrote:I have a question for any suspension gurus out there and thought this was good as any place to ask. In regards to the front strut braces where the bar bolts on to the bracket that sits on the strut towers...should this bolt be done up tight enough so the bar has no movement in it at all or should the bar be able to pivot to load up the inside strut durring cornering.

The reasson I ask is the last time I had suspension and steering adjusted I noticed later on that the bolts had been loosened off. Any sugestions?

top of the strut tower nuts should be tight mate

Jamie · Post by **Jamie** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:47 pm

vipfto wrote:
Jamie wrote:I have a question for any suspension gurus out there and thought this was good as any place to ask. In regards to the front strut braces where the bar bolts on to the bracket that sits on the strut towers...should this bolt be done up tight enough so the bar has no movement in it at all or should the bar be able to pivot to load up the inside strut durring cornering.

The reasson I ask is the last time I had suspension and steering adjusted I noticed later on that the bolts had been loosened off. Any sugestions?
top of the strut tower nuts should be tight mate

I think you have misunderstood me. I prob wasnt clear enough. The nut and bolt that I am refering to is the one that joins the bar to the bracket that sits on top of the strut tower. If this isnt clear enough I may have to post up a pic.

Post by **Bennoz** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:03 pm

AJ wrote:OK, thanks for that Ben. So, he's what I'm going to get for now...
SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing
SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing
SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount to chassis bushing (16mm)
All from either Bursons or Fulcrum

Front droplinks from Camskill

So it doesn't matter if I get all this before deciding to get either the KYB's or coilovers right? I still need this stuff no matter which way I go? If I get Tein top mounts, can they be used with the KYB's? What's best reasonable coilovers?

Cheers!

Perfect mate

Yeah, all of that can be done before or after changing shocks, you should still do it. Tein top mounts can be used on KYBs, I had that setup for a while.

Best coilovers for cash, unsure... G4s D2s? Some other guys with them could probably comment better than I could.

Post by **Bennoz** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:05 pm

Jamie wrote:
vipfto wrote:
Jamie wrote:I have a question for any suspension gurus out there and thought this was good as any place to ask. In regards to the front strut braces where the bar bolts on to the bracket that sits on the strut towers...should this bolt be done up tight enough so the bar has no movement in it at all or should the bar be able to pivot to load up the inside strut durring cornering.

The reasson I ask is the last time I had suspension and steering adjusted I noticed later on that the bolts had been loosened off. Any sugestions?
top of the strut tower nuts should be tight mate
I think you have misunderstood me. I prob wasnt clear enough. The nut and bolt that I am refering to is the one that joins the bar to the bracket that sits on top of the strut tower. If this isnt clear enough I may have to post up a pic.

Should still be tight. A properly fitted brace should be in 'tension' between the 2 towers - ie wound tight in an inwards direction.

zuihoujueding · Post by **zuihoujueding** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:06 pm

strut bars are meant to reduce chassis flexing. That means the bolts have to be tight.

AJ · Post by AJ » Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:39 am

Bennoz wrote:
AJ wrote:OK, thanks for that Ben. So, he's what I'm going to get for now...
SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing
SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing
SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount to chassis bushing (16mm)
All from either Bursons or Fulcrum

Front droplinks from Camskill

So it doesn't matter if I get all this before deciding to get either the KYB's or coilovers right? I still need this stuff no matter which way I go? If I get Tein top mounts, can they be used with the KYB's? What's best reasonable coilovers?

Cheers!
Perfect mate Yeah, all of that can be done before or after changing shocks, you should still do it. Tein top mounts can be used on KYBs, I had that setup for a while.

Best coilovers for cash, unsure... G4s D2s? Some other guys with them could probably comment better than I could.

Cool. Cheers Ben. Drop links have been ordered.

* Update, drop links have arrived. What do I order now.? If I order from fulcrum, I have to do it online right, 'cos they are not in NSW. Or should I just go to a Burson store? There website is a bit crap. Cheers.

nvr2low · Post by **nvr2low** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:29 pm

hey i may be stupid i been looking everywere through here.
i cant find what the part number are for the anti roll bar bushes are or is that he sway bar to chassis bushes. i need a answer asap please

Post by **vipfto** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:49 pm

they the same
Anti Roll Bar (ARB) = Sway bar

nvr2low · Post by **nvr2low** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:02 pm

ok thanks a lot man so i just get the sway bar chassis bushes kool