new t's factory front bar
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- J
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new t's factory front bar
i've had it on for a week or so and im well chuffed some small little things need to be done before respray like some fiberglass touchups here and there, and im going to attempt to stregthen the middle low bar with more fiberglass.
a pic before mesh and indicators:
had a problem with the prefacelift indicator pods as the bar had no screw/bolt mounts to attatch the bracket to and i was never a fan of the pods anyways so ive opted for the facelift indicators. this also allows some room for a good cold air feed
1hr ago when i just finished puting the indicators in:
thinking about cutting another hole next to the passenger indicator and attatching one of these to the air feed hose aswell.
opinions are always welcome
a pic before mesh and indicators:
had a problem with the prefacelift indicator pods as the bar had no screw/bolt mounts to attatch the bracket to and i was never a fan of the pods anyways so ive opted for the facelift indicators. this also allows some room for a good cold air feed
1hr ago when i just finished puting the indicators in:
thinking about cutting another hole next to the passenger indicator and attatching one of these to the air feed hose aswell.
opinions are always welcome
- FTEvolution
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- dstocks
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Im Jealous. Thats what i want, but in a facelift version. I have the lip, just need the facelift bar to blend it to.
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- Tippin
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- J
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I'll be moulding the rear bar to a dc rear lip when i have the cash to get it. You have to stick the lip on and cut a thin piece of aliminium or whatever metal to cover the edge of the lip and some of the rear bar. Pop rivet it to ensure the dc rear wont move and filler and fiberglass over it. Allot of patience and sanding is required to get a flat finish. You have to make sure the aluminium is large enough so as to make a flat enough surface or you will see where the lip was blended in and it wont be smooth. And rust proof just incase.Tippin wrote:looks great jay, love those front bars
might be looking at making one myself too as i already have a lip, on a side note to dstocks, how do you intend on bonding the fibreglass to the stock bumper plastic? is that going to be a problem when making it?
Topao. - i still have heeps of clearance at the bottom, dont have to angle the car on most humps i just have to take it slower then previously. Thats only because i've filled up the tyres a bit more to lift it up.
- Tippin
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hmm yeh i like the moulded dc rearsJ wrote:I'll be moulding the rear bar to a dc rear lip when i have the cash to get it. You have to stick the lip on and cut a thin piece of aliminium or whatever metal to cover the edge of the lip and some of the rear bar. Pop rivet it to ensure the dc rear wont move and filler and fiberglass over it. Allot of patience and sanding is required to get a flat finish. You have to make sure the aluminium is large enough so as to make a flat enough surface or you will see where the lip was blended in and it wont be smooth. And rust proof just incase.Tippin wrote:looks great jay, love those front bars
might be looking at making one myself too as i already have a lip, on a side note to dstocks, how do you intend on bonding the fibreglass to the stock bumper plastic? is that going to be a problem when making it?
wouldn't it be easier to just use screws like every 10 cm on the top of the lip and then shave the heads off?
im just think that the only problem is the fibreglass filler cracking and peeling because of the weak bond with the plastic bumper
- J
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You can do that aswell.... I havnt done a moulding job yet but from other sites and ftooc. thats the information i have gather so far. I would asume as long as you hold the lip down to the bar with some form of screw/rivet it should be fine and you wouldn't need to plate it up, you could probly just screw and blend.Tippin wrote:hmm yeh i like the moulded dc rearsJ wrote:I'll be moulding the rear bar to a dc rear lip when i have the cash to get it. You have to stick the lip on and cut a thin piece of aliminium or whatever metal to cover the edge of the lip and some of the rear bar. Pop rivet it to ensure the dc rear wont move and filler and fiberglass over it. Allot of patience and sanding is required to get a flat finish. You have to make sure the aluminium is large enough so as to make a flat enough surface or you will see where the lip was blended in and it wont be smooth. And rust proof just incase.Tippin wrote:looks great jay, love those front bars
might be looking at making one myself too as i already have a lip, on a side note to dstocks, how do you intend on bonding the fibreglass to the stock bumper plastic? is that going to be a problem when making it?
wouldn't it be easier to just use screws like every 10 cm on the top of the lip and then shave the heads off?
im just think that the only problem is the fibreglass filler cracking and peeling because of the weak bond with the plastic bumper
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hey jay was thinking about our front bars (im getting closer to finishing mine)
are you planning on reinforcing the whole bottom end of the bar or just that middle section?
I would just be leaving it as is or just the middle at most, that bottom bit is more flexible and will absorb any shock rather than the whole bar and place stress on where the lip is moulded
I thrashed my dc lip while i had it on and it still held up ok, just a thought man
you getting it painted soon?
are you planning on reinforcing the whole bottom end of the bar or just that middle section?
I would just be leaving it as is or just the middle at most, that bottom bit is more flexible and will absorb any shock rather than the whole bar and place stress on where the lip is moulded
I thrashed my dc lip while i had it on and it still held up ok, just a thought man
you getting it painted soon?
- J
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hey shane. im going to reinforce the middle bar and a bit of the lower lip... more where the middle bars goes into the actual bar, just before the little holes are on each side.Tippin wrote:hey jay was thinking about our front bars (im getting closer to finishing mine)
are you planning on reinforcing the whole bottom end of the bar or just that middle section?
I would just be leaving it as is or just the middle at most, that bottom bit is more flexible and will absorb any shock rather than the whole bar and place stress on where the lip is moulded
I thrashed my dc lip while i had it on and it still held up ok, just a thought man
you getting it painted soon?
after driving it dor a few weeks, and looking where it hits the ground ive found that the middle front is the weakest point. because when i reverse on an angle it pulls the front corner which stress' themiddle bar... which has started to crack. the lower corners of the bar, near the arches, are preety tuff though. they've taken a beating recently on a little run through the twisties and not a single crack on the underside.
but better safe then sorry i guess.
it wont be painted untill the wide arches come in though, which im not too fussed with. at least it gives me time to save up for the whole paint job.
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