Passenger Side Central Locking Problem!!
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- Richy
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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Passenger Side Central Locking Problem!!
not long after my ownership of the FTO (1 mth), i ve encountered my 1st problem ...which is the passenger side central lock...it doesnt work anymore. when i lock the car, i dont even hear the passenger side mechanism trying...just nothing happens.
i was then reading the diy section (http://ftoaustralia.com/modules.php?nam ... pic&t=1058) on central locking fix...however i cant see the pics, so dont quite understand how to do it....
I bought a set of central locking set from stratfield car radio (they wanna charge $65 for installation per door), so i decided to give it a DIY try before i spend the money...and i took the door panel out (thanx for the guide found here), but the locking motor is behind the metal panel, making it unreachable....
could anyone please give me a little instructions on this issue...ie. where do u place the new motor (assuming the old one cant be removed as its behind the metal structure)....etc
greatly appreciated...
Richy
i was then reading the diy section (http://ftoaustralia.com/modules.php?nam ... pic&t=1058) on central locking fix...however i cant see the pics, so dont quite understand how to do it....
I bought a set of central locking set from stratfield car radio (they wanna charge $65 for installation per door), so i decided to give it a DIY try before i spend the money...and i took the door panel out (thanx for the guide found here), but the locking motor is behind the metal panel, making it unreachable....
could anyone please give me a little instructions on this issue...ie. where do u place the new motor (assuming the old one cant be removed as its behind the metal structure)....etc
greatly appreciated...
Richy
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- Grease Monkey
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- Richy
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yeah...but the pics and stuff seems to be for an astra...when i open the doorcard, i cant even see the motor....
or am i not reading the instructions properly??
if anyone could explain the replacing process a little more detail...would be greatly appreciated...i ll try taking the doorcard out again later today or tomorrow to give it another try....
cheers
or am i not reading the instructions properly??
if anyone could explain the replacing process a little more detail...would be greatly appreciated...i ll try taking the doorcard out again later today or tomorrow to give it another try....
cheers
- khunjeng
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I have recently come accross the same issue. Mine only works when i use the key, not the remote/alarm.
When i could bf'd it all comes off..But atm...i can't. I hvae pulled the door card/skin off a few time sin the past and from memory the mech, is behind the metal frame.
My guess fromt he other guides is that u simply mount a new one close buy and re-direct the cable from the old-new.
But I have never done it.
How much for the kit that u bought?
When i could bf'd it all comes off..But atm...i can't. I hvae pulled the door card/skin off a few time sin the past and from memory the mech, is behind the metal frame.
My guess fromt he other guides is that u simply mount a new one close buy and re-direct the cable from the old-new.
But I have never done it.
How much for the kit that u bought?
- Supplanter
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- Richy
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hahahaha
after a few hours of mugging around, cruising through various forums and reading mxysxy's post for about 20 times...finally fulfilled my first DIY mission....
have sucessfully attached an aftermarket actuator to the passenger door and my central locking is sweet and back to business..(although if i manually lock it from the inside seems to be a little tight....but didn't bother opening the doorcard to re-adjust it again - lazy)..
overall, very happy with the works for a complete novice like myself...
after a few hours of mugging around, cruising through various forums and reading mxysxy's post for about 20 times...finally fulfilled my first DIY mission....
have sucessfully attached an aftermarket actuator to the passenger door and my central locking is sweet and back to business..(although if i manually lock it from the inside seems to be a little tight....but didn't bother opening the doorcard to re-adjust it again - lazy)..
overall, very happy with the works for a complete novice like myself...
- Supplanter
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- khunjeng
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thats great mate.Richy wrote:hahahaha
after a few hours of mugging around, cruising through various forums and reading mxysxy's post for about 20 times...finally fulfilled my first DIY mission....
have sucessfully attached an aftermarket actuator to the passenger door and my central locking is sweet and back to business..(although if i manually lock it from the inside seems to be a little tight....but didn't bother opening the doorcard to re-adjust it again - lazy)..
overall, very happy with the works for a complete novice like myself...
So can u tell me exactly what u bought and did? I'm gonna give it a go very soon.
- Supplanter
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- alku83
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Will that work for hooking up the mirrors as well, or does that need to be done seperately? Also, it says its for passenger door...do you use the same one for drivers side?Supplanter wrote:You need one of these (the 2 wire slave one) and some wire.
http://www.aspyre.com.au/
- Richy
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hello
the kit i bought from Stradfield is a black widow kit for 4 doors.. cost me $39..
after u take out the doorcard...unplug the socket on the right side of the door (think thats the power supply for the motor).
Then unplug the socket on the left near the motor (its sort of hidden behind the metal panel). the socket has two wires, one blue/black, and one blue/red.
install the new actuator / rod, with the green cable wired to blue/red, and blue to blue/black. then secure the actuator either with the metal plate or cable tie.. i drilled a hole and use one metal plate, (then my drill went out of battery and could be bothered to recharge it) so i use cable tie to further secured the actuator.
Then plug the socket on the right side of the door back and try the lock...then do any adjustment as suited...that's it.
hope this would help someone with a similar problem as mine...
Cheers
the kit i bought from Stradfield is a black widow kit for 4 doors.. cost me $39..
after u take out the doorcard...unplug the socket on the right side of the door (think thats the power supply for the motor).
Then unplug the socket on the left near the motor (its sort of hidden behind the metal panel). the socket has two wires, one blue/black, and one blue/red.
install the new actuator / rod, with the green cable wired to blue/red, and blue to blue/black. then secure the actuator either with the metal plate or cable tie.. i drilled a hole and use one metal plate, (then my drill went out of battery and could be bothered to recharge it) so i use cable tie to further secured the actuator.
Then plug the socket on the right side of the door back and try the lock...then do any adjustment as suited...that's it.
hope this would help someone with a similar problem as mine...
Cheers
- Supplanter
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Hooking up the mirrors is completely different, you need 3 relays and some wire and some extra money to put in the swear jaralku83 wrote: Will that work for hooking up the mirrors as well, or does that need to be done seperately? Also, it says its for passenger door...do you use the same one for drivers side?
Auto Folding Mirror Instructions
LED ALL the things.
- alku83
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I think I'll tackle that one another day. The guide hereSupplanter wrote: Hooking up the mirrors is completely different, you need 3 relays and some wire and some extra money to put in the swear jar
Auto Folding Mirror Instructions
http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/workshop/ ... index.html
seems to indicate you can do it all nicely in one solution? Anyway I think I'll just do one thing at a time.
I read through the thread in the DIY, and it sounds like you need a 2 wire for the passenger side, and a 4/5 wire for the driver side? I wanna do both at the same time, but I can't see any instructions for how to connect up the wires on the drivers side. Is it basically the same?
http://www.aspyre.com.au/
- alku83
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Well I did mine today and I'll answer my own question, slave (2 wire) actuators are fine for both sides, just make sure on the drivers side you reconnect the remaining two wires to the original door lock motor.alku83 wrote: I read through the thread in the DIY, and it sounds like you need a 2 wire for the passenger side, and a 4/5 wire for the driver side? I wanna do both at the same time, but I can't see any instructions for how to connect up the wires on the drivers side. Is it basically the same?
Wow what a difference, why didn't I do this 2 years ago! I used the actuators in the link Supplanter gave above, from Jaycar, and the hardest part for me was where to attach the bloody things. So, for anyone who uses the same ones and has any trouble, here's how I attached mine. God bless the man who invented cable ties!
http://www.aspyre.com.au/
- BorepYano
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hmm. safe lol, just my 2c, but u might want to put a bit of plastic or even a bit of cardboard between the cable tie and the sharp edge of the panel. there's going to be movement no matter how tight u do the thign up, and it'll eventually cut the cable tie.alku83 wrote:here's how I attached mine. God bless the man who invented cable ties!
btw won't it work if u just drilled a couple holes in the panel to stick it on?
- Bennoz
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You dont use cable ties much then Borep? Mate, those thing will be there for life! There's nuthin' ya cant do with cable tiesBorepYano wrote:hmm. safe lol, just my 2c, but u might want to put a bit of plastic or even a bit of cardboard between the cable tie and the sharp edge of the panel. there's going to be movement no matter how tight u do the thign up, and it'll eventually cut the cable tie.alku83 wrote:here's how I attached mine. God bless the man who invented cable ties!
btw won't it work if u just drilled a couple holes in the panel to stick it on?
I used them in an old car I had to hold part of the exhaust up. Strapped around the brackets they lasted 6 years & were still on it when I sold it