The FTOA Oil Thread

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:17 pm

My advice on Oil...I'm not a guru but this will help you decide, not on marketing and what some1 told you, but on facts.

1. POE Base (Ester) oils are the best avaliable. Motul 300V and Redline are the top brands commonly avaliable in Australia. This are quite expensive due to the cost of the ester is more than normal base stock. If you pay these dollars do 10,000 Oil Chnage Intervals (OCI)

Some oil i know that contain ester
Redline - mostly ester base
Motul 300V - mostly ester base
Fuchs silkorene - mostly ester
Delvac 1 - small percentage of ester
Magnatec - unknown percentage of ester (likely small amount)

Eg of your engine after a few chnages of Redline : http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 012378;p=0

2. Dropping the filter at 5k is a waste of time IMO. Unless you've got problems with your motor, it wouldnt even be 20% full of debris. Actually the longer you leave the filter on, its single pass efficiency increases (ie the better it actually filter out small particles) so I say, leave it on! I like this summary: "When time comes to change the oil at 3000-5000 miles they may just be getting in to their most effective part of their life cycle. Hence they never function optimally, or spent far less time in that range where small particle filtering is most effective."

3. Some filters are poor quality. Many threads about using Ryco ones with poor quality anti-drain back valves. Good filters use a silicone gasket (Eg Purolator PureOne) which lasts much longer. You can tell by if it has an orange valve at the bottom instead of black (ordinary nitrile rubber). Ryco ones are actually crap, however I have used them before. Its likely that the OEM Mitsi ones are silicone also from japan as my OEM Nissan was.

4. For an NA FTO its probably overkill using a POE base oil but at leats u know your getting the best product in your car. But if u chnage your oil every 5k like some ppls seem to do u may actually save money!

5. Fully Synthetic oils which should be POA base stocks are next in line if you cant get or afford a POE base. Examples are Mobil1, Mobil 1, RP or Castrol SLX.

6. There are many oils but you will find many are blends of lower grades. To keep it basic anything that is a group type I-III (like many on the market) are low quality. However uneless u do your research u wouldn't know. POAs are group IVs.

7. Many good oils have addatives packages. I know the Motul 300V has a really good package but I have never really researched it much. Redline is the same. It helps break down the sludge and crap and clean your engine when u chnage the oil and another reason to have 10k OICs

8. Important ratings to look for:

cSt @ 40C (cold) - Viscosity
cSt @ 100C (operating) - Viscosity
HTHS - measure of the "strength" of the oil or VII content.

As a reference
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf

9. Thick or Thin? What weight for my FTO?

This is where most of the debate is. And thats why I left it to last. U can see there are many more important factors in oil selection than the weight.

Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress. The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run. IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market. FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6

In addition using the cSt ratings as a guide you will find 10W30 type oils have a much better viscosity at cold start - hence less engine wear. The difference between a 30 and a 40 at operating temp is not that great as a matter of fact but might be enough to fix tappet that is just out of adjustment. If u have noisy tappets - fix them properly don't use a thicker oil for all the reaosns stated above.

I use a Redline 10W30.

And this is only my opinion. Debate welcome and I'm sure some more info.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:21 pm

Also.

The FTO GR and GPX take 4.1 litres & add 0.3 litres for the oil filter.
Total : 4.4 for a full change.

Engine Oil filter (MD360935 or Z411)

I will research the OEM one to confirm its a silicone type and hence this would be the best one.

Post by **Bennoz** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:03 am

Oil Bible

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:01 pm

Bennoz wrote:Oil Bible

thanks for moving...most ppl seem to ask questions in the Help section...or more recently in the general section

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 7:20 pm

You done any research on Tranny oils? I've just bought 8 litres of Redline High Temp ATF and it was $30 a litre!!!

It better be as good as everyone says!

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 7:41 pm

Nacho wrote:You done any research on Tranny oils? I've just bought 8 litres of Redline High Temp ATF and it was $30 a litre!!!

It better be as good as everyone says!

Its nt a good idea to use some of the shockproof models in good condition boxes. Which one did you buy exactly?

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:10 pm

Redline Synthetic High Temp ATF. Thumbs up or down?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:49 pm

Nacho wrote:Redline Synthetic High Temp ATF. Thumbs up or down?

I'm no guru on gear oils but this one is Dextron III equiv. Although the specs are similar to engine oils and I see little to no difference between the DII and DIII specs about from the DIII is for a slightly higher temp rating and visc. is lower. The FTO Manual suggets a ATF SP II which is the Mitsubishi spec. Anyway it will be suitable for Dextron II and III applications.

This will be a good quiality gear oil for high load/temp applications.

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:03 am

So I guess when I put it in there we will find out. Obviously with the tip-tranny you know the timing well enough to know the difference coz you're so used to how quickly/slowly the gears change.

Nacho · Post by **Nacho** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:02 am

Ok I've got the Redline High-Temp ATF in there and I must admit it gets a thumbs up! The shift is immediate and to be honest, I can't even feel the shift anymore coz it's that smooth!

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:53 pm

Nacho wrote:Ok I've got the Redline High-Temp ATF in there and I must admit it gets a thumbs up! The shift is immediate and to be honest, I can't even feel the shift anymore coz it's that smooth!

Yeha thats the normal redline ATF....good stuff. I will use it also.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 9:53 pm

I find using too thin of an oil say a 5W makes my lifters too loud. I find 10W is the lowest i'll go. My car taps like crazy on the Mobil 1.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 10:44 pm

payaya wrote:I find using too thin of an oil say a 5W makes my lifters too loud. I find 10W is the lowest i'll go. My car taps like crazy on the Mobil 1.

I agree and use a 10W30...adjust my tappets and its fine. At idle it can be a little noisy but under any load its very nice.

rnbboi · Post by **rnbboi** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:46 pm

i notice this thread is about engine oils...

but can somone post up some info on the power steering fluid/oil that i should use in the FTO?

need to know ASAP... apparently specific car manufacturers use specific fluids/oil?

thanks in advance

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 11:31 pm

rnbboi wrote:i notice this thread is about engine oils...

but can somone post up some info on the power steering fluid/oil that i should use in the FTO?

need to know ASAP... apparently specific car manufacturers use specific fluids/oil?

thanks in advance

PS fluid...your selling the car right??? just use whatever u want

whats the manual say about PS fluid?

rnbboi · Post by **rnbboi** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 11:35 pm

err... chris, its just dat my p/s fluid level in the fto is low and i would like to top it up.

i would tell u what the man. spec says, but i cant find it on my comp

so i was hoping one of u nice people would tell me what fluid i should buy cos like i said, apparently there different fluid specific to each manufacturer

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 11:40 pm

Power Steering Oil

You use a ATF fluid in your P/S....although I'm yet to do it you should flush u P/S flud at your oil chnage to keep the pump in good condition.

Use a Dexton III type ATF and you should be fine. Like Mobil 1 for example. I Don't thanks you should use a really expenive brand, but thats only my opinion.

The Tech manaul specs Dextron II ATF...but III will be fine and off the shelf.

Tip Transmission Oil

FTO Tech. Manual specs an SPII rated ATF for the Tiptronic. After a bit of research and questions I have discovered that a lot of Mitsi's pec this oil in their trannys (so do Kia & Hyundai).

I wasn't sure what the deal was but a SP rated oil - which seems only avaliable in OEM format through the dealer is the only way to go. If you need more info why just ask.

The SPII/III are highly friction modified (HFM) ATF more so than Mercon/Dexron.

Enough HFM'd = smooth shifts and smooth TC lookup. Too much HFM'd = smooth shift and TC lockup, but possibly full power slippage and wear(very noticeable on tired trannies and those requiring lesser HFM'd fluids).
Too little HFM'd = abrubt shorter clunkier shifts along with TC shudder. And, if the tranny times the shift, excessively grabby fluid could cause a line pressure drop, more slippage, less holding capacity, and increased wear.

You should also reset the TCM when you switch or change your ATFs. This will eliminate any confusion caused by the learned/adaptive transmission parameters.

HOWEVER...NAcho has used the Redline Hi-Temp ATF. He reckons it shifts heaps better. Their web-site says its really for Dextron III replacement which is actually incorrect. Might like to see some feedback from him i.e. abrubt shorter clunkier shifts along with TC shudder?

I bought 2 x 5L Bottles of OEM Mitsi ATF (SP-III) stuff and it cost $25 per bottle...not expensive IMO so just buy it.

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:06 am

Oil Filters

Read this :

There is some evidence that your choice in Oil FIlter has an effect on the Tappet noise...the RYCO SCORED CRAPOLA!!

It appears and from other forums...try to use a Mobil 1 filter or a Coopers (which are more commonly avaliable)

Make sure you use these!!

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/auspoc/techstuff.htm

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:14 am

What about g/box oils for those with LSD?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:51 am

Bennoz wrote:What about g/box oils for those with LSD?

edit from me...

When an oil is spec'd for LSD use, they mean its appropriately friction modified for clutch LSDs. Most Nissan LSDs for example are viscous coupling (VLSD) which means they use their own internal fluid for the 'lockup'. So for VLSDs it doesn't matter if the oil is specifically rated for LSD use or not - just so long as its API GL5 rated. So you are safe with Syntrax. I'm not sure what type of LSD the FTO uses...

Two good choices:
Castrol Syntrax 75W90 - GL4/5 suitable for both diffs and gearboxes.
Castrol Syntrans 75W85 - GL4 for gearboxes only but tends to give better shifting than Syntrax for gearboxes specifying GL4 fluids such as nissans.